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Dear Welder Series… 50 Chevy styleline Mustang II Questions

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Guys,
I purchased a 56″ cross member kit (WS 14340) from you guys a few years back and am just now getting around to installing it in a 50 Chevy 2-door styleline sedan.

I am going for a frame height of 6 inches (measuring just below the center of the door – from the floor to the bottom of the frame).

I have 27 inch diameter tires.

I will be using reverse eye leaf springs in the rear (probably from Posies).

I will not have air bags.

I am in the process of setting the ride heights. I am having a hard time getting the rake set front to rear.

I am used to dirt oval race cars that have frame rails that run parallel to the floor from front stub to rear kickups. They are quite easy to set the rake.

This car doesn’t seem to have rails that are parallel to the floor.

Any tips on getting the front to rear rake set??? How critical is this. As my dad says, we are not running Indy with this thing…

Same issue on the rear getting it level side to side. Can’t find a great place to put the level. I am using the rear cross member under the trunk latch but it isn’t very flat.

I am getting ready to complete the worksheet and I have a silly question but I want to be sure before I start.

On your instruction sheet WS14340N.p65, drawing numbers 2, 3 and 4, you show the front of the car to the left with an arrow and an exaggerated frame rake leaning toward the front of the car.

My frame at this location is raked the opposite way. Is this an issue??? Am I looking at it backward???

I believe this is representing the drivers side outside frame rail. Is that correct???

Thanks…love your worksheet and product so far.


Dear Mike…
Looks like a great project!

We set ride height and stance with the front fenders and hood on the car and the wheels and tires we plan to use blocked in place. This is so the car will look the way we want it when finished. We don’t try for level at any specific part of the frame rails when viewed from the side.

If you can’t put the level on top of the rails because of the body/floor panels, how about holding it under the rails?

The exaggerated rake in the drawings was to let people know that the rails don’t have to be level. Just take vertical dimensions and draw vertical lines at the points specified. It doesn’t matter which way the rails (top or bottom surfaces) slope. You are correct that dwgs 2,3, and 4 are driver’s side, outside.

Good questions. Please write again if you have other things to ask.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 1978 3/4t four link?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1978 3/4 ton Chevy pick up and am wanting to change out the rear suspension. I got an estimate from a suspension shop and they wanted $2300.00 dollars just for labor!

Do you have a kit (or one that can be adapted)that I can install myself?

Dear Robert…
Robert, Welder Series has a parallel and a triangulated rear suspension kit. Both kits are generic and have been used in a wide range of frames. We put the installation sheets on our website so builders can check mounting point locations and satisfy themselves about the suitability of our kits for their application. (I haven’t built this series truck.)

Please check the installation sheets at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/ and at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-parallel-universal/. With the parallel kit you will need a Panhard bar, too. http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/category/rear-panhard-kits/

Thanks for looking at our parts.

Paul Horton

Heartbleed update: safe

If you’ve been keeping track of the Internet, you’ll recognize the word Heartbleed. No, it’s not a recently uncovered Elvis single. It’s a security vulnerability that has had pretty wide reaching effects.

welderseries.com uses the Cloudflare service to deliver the site quicker to people all over the world, and sites running through the Cloudflare system are secure and experienced no breaches. Here’s an update from the Cloudflare people: https://support.cloudflare.com/hc/en-us/articles/201660084-Update-on-the-Heartbleed-OpenSSL-Vulnerability


The Strange Way

Tim Strange has a new YouTube channel out, where he’ll be showing the basics of metal fab, body work, and maybe a rant or two once in a while.




Tim did a really cool TV show called Search and Restore, so we all know he has a face for TV… well, at least he can explain how to build and modify hot rods in your garage with no drama and no yelling. Subscribe to his channel – I’m sure you’ll learn a lot!

Dear Welder Series… four bar with reversed bars?

Dear Welder Series…
I’m putting a triangular 4 link in 68 firebird. Can I put the upper bars to the rear of the car?

Dear Martin…
No, Martin, the geometry does not work with the bars reversed.

Thanks for asking before getting too far into the project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… triangulated four bar bar lengths?

Dear Welder Series…
How can you calculate the length of the upper and lower bars so to know that your rear four link will work effectively ? I have a 1956 chevy bel air will use coilovers!

Dear Ken…
Ken, a triangulated rear 4-link is fairly forgiving if you need to change bar dimensions a bit. Our standard bar lengths will work well in your Chev.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… weld-on front axle brackets?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1929 Chevy full fendered 3 window 2dr. It has a 4″ drop round front axle can you make the 4 link kit axle weld ons to fit my round axle? How much? Thanks, also would like a four link with coil overs support rear of car has 327 motor and 400 trans. Car currently has leafs on front and back was going with model a front spring. thanks

Dear John…
John, we don’t presently have front axle 4-bar brackets for you to weld to your axle, but I’m going to design some and have them ready within 2 weeks. DW will put them on the blog with pricing as soon as they are on our shelves.

A rear 4-link and coil-overs is an excellent suspension for your Chev. Coil-overs have a “designed ride height”, so you can build the car knowing exactly how it will sit with no allowance necessary for the springs. Use either our parallel 4-link (with a Panhard bar) or our triangulated kit. The parallel kit/Panhard is easier to set up and adjust. The triangulated kit costs less because the Panhard isn’t necessary.

Thanks for asking about Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 3″ x 1-1/2″ frame curves?

Dear Welder Series…
Hello any chance you will be offering frame curves in a 3″x 1.5″ size? thanks

Dear Mike…
I’m sorry, Mike, but we don’t plan to produce that size. (Get all your friends to request it… you are the first to have asked.)

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 37-1/2″ sway bar?

Dear Welder Series…
Do you have sway bar that is 37 1/2 inches from eye to eye? I am looking for one to fit a 34 Ford coupe with mustang 2 tubular front end. I was thinking of mounting the links on the lower coil over mounting bolts.     Thanks  Michael

Dear Michael…
Michael, our sway bars are either 36″ or 46″ long.  They can be cut down to the length required using a hack saw.  You would order the 46″ kit to get 37-1/2″ overall, measured outside the arms.  Be sure that your tires will clear when turned.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 35-40 Rear Boxing Plates?

Dear Welder Series…
Do you have any frame repair kits for the rear wheel area for a 39 Ford stock chassis for restoration.
Mainly need the area at the axel hump behind the rear wheel


Dear Bill…
Bill, we have boxing plates for the rear half of the 1935 – 40 Ford frame. These might help to reinforce the stock rails, if they are still part of the frame. http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/boxing-plates-3540/ shows the whole kit (front and rear halves), but the rear plates are available separately. Part #354002, $47.00 each.

Do you think  this would fix the problem?