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Posted May 17th, 2012 We will be closed on Monday, May 21 for Victoria Day (in Canada).
If you’re home for Memorial Day, we’ll be working then.
Posted May 15th, 2012 As Steve was installing his Welder Series coil over Mustang II crossmember, he snapped some pictures (do you still snap pictures with a digital camera?) and sent them to be added to our monthly photo sharing draw. I know he’s bought a triangulated four link for the same truck… I can’t wait to see those install pictures too! That’s great, thanks very much for using our parts, Steve.
Depending on your ride height, notching the top part of your frame rails might be necessary. The instruction sheets included in the kit will show you how to determine whether you’ll have to trim your frame or not.
Steve used a #21906 56″ track width for his ’52.
Send your installed pics to pictures@welderseries.com. We’ll enter you in a monthly draw to win a $50 credit on your account here.
Posted May 11th, 2012 Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in replacing the MGB front suspension in my Cobra replica. I am planning to buy your unwelded coilover cross member and cut it down to make the pivot points of the lower a-arm match the pivot points of a MGB steering rack and fabricate rack mounting brackets for it. I need to make the hub to hub width about 52″. I plan to use some Bilstien coilovers left over from Lotus Elise project with 371 pounds per inch springs. These are not the adjustable type, so I may have to drill extra holes to get the ride height right.
I drive my car in rallies and Solos 2 events VERY hard. I need to lose some weight, improve geometry and gain bigger brakes (I plan to get Wilwoods). Please check out this picture of my car: http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/DSC00456.jpg. So any advice you can give me will be very much appreciated.

Thank you,
Paul
Dear Paul…
Good looking Cobra, Paul. (Does it have a heater?)
The 52″ track width can be done, as outlined on our website at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/?s=narrow+Mustang+II .
I’m not clear about your MGB parts use. If you plan to use all of the MGB parts on our crossmember, there will be some fab work required. It looks like you are o.k. with that. ??
I hope this reply helps with your plans.
Posted May 11th, 2012 Dear Welder Series…
Do you have any trailer hitch parts to build a trailer hitch for a 1934 Pontiac?
Thanks
Burl
Dear Burl…
There aren’t any specific trailer hitch parts in the Welder Series catalog, Burl, but I’m sure a few of the tabs and gussets could be used.
Thanks for looking at our site.
Posted May 3rd, 2012 Dear Welder Series…
Is your crossmember compatible to the original Mustang II upper and lower A arms? I am building a 36 Dodge Sedan D2.
Thank you..Tommy
Dear Tommy…
Yes, Tommy, our crossmember is compatible with stock upper and lower arms from 1974 – 78 Mustang II and 1974 – 80 Pinto. You may want to order the strut rod bracket & gusset kit, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/strut-rod-bracket-gusset-kit/, if you are using the stock lower arms.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Posted May 3rd, 2012 Dear Welder Series…
I am looking for a mustang 2 front crossmember that I can weld my self. I see you have one for a model A but I need one for a 47 Chevy 3800. Is it the same one or do you offer a different one for different vehicles?
Thanks,
Derek
Dear Derek…
The 3800 truck is the 1 ton version, as I’m sure you know. I believe, but don’t know for sure, that the frame is the same width as the 1/2 ton truck. If this is true, the 56″ kits are the right width. Assembly and installation info is below the description of the kits at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ws14540/ and
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/21906/.
The videos will help you see what is involved in putting the kit in your frame.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Posted May 3rd, 2012 Dear Welder Series…
I purchased a Welder Series coil over front end kit for my 1952 GMC pickup. During the process I seem to have misplace my installation guide instructions. Can you mail me a new copy or email me a new copy either would be of great help.
Dear David…
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/21906/
David, check out the above link. Scroll down and below the product description you will find a link to the assembly and installation instructions. If these don’t load for you, please phone DW at 1-888-648-2150. He will get things looked after. (I’m on vacation and haven’t been getting email since late last week.)
Thanks for your business. I hope the install goes smoothly for you.
Posted April 25th, 2012 Dear Welder Series…
Hi,
How long it typically took to receive the “Ford Motor Mounts, 4.6L & 5.4L, Urethane Insulated” kit that you have to offer on your site? My project car is up in Pennsylvania so I am not certain what I need at this time, but it looks like your kit might do the trick.
Just some background… I am putting a 4.6l mod motor into a 65 mustang. In this setup, would the welded kit work properly to allow me to get the engine as far back towards the firewall as possible? Not sure how much leeway your kit provides for backwards/forwards positioning.
Thanks!
Erik
Dear Erik…
Erik, our 4.6l kit can be installed where ever you want it along the frame rails. Kits are normally in stock and would take about 3 days to get to you from our place.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Posted April 19th, 2012 We’ve spent a good deal of energy focusing on quality parts… quality steel, quality laser cuts, quality machining, and especially quality welding. When we see parts installed at a show, we can pretty much always tell if they’re Welder Series parts based on the weld and edge quality. That said, when a customer came in with a set of four bar brackets that he thought were ours, it didn’t take too much inspection to determine that they didn’t come from our shop.
I wanted to point out some of the features that a Welder Series bracket has versus this similar (but different) bracket.
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Hole is generally circular but not round, edges are bumpy.
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Edges aren’t perpendicular to sides of plate, not smooth.
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Hole isn’t round (stop-start point for the plasma cutter).
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Barely noticeable stop-start mark (laser cut), high edge quality, defined tig bead.
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Hole is round and circular.
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Posted April 18th, 2012 Dear Welder Series…
I am building a 37 two door sedan. I have put in one of your Mustang II front suspension kits, which worked fine. Now I am installing the motor, which is a 1999 LS1 5.7L. My question is how important is the three degree tilt back on the engine. Three degree will work but 5 degree would put the tailstock below the the top of the frame and would mean less floor modifications. I did just purchase one of your center section kits but it is not going to work the way you [supplied] it, because the drive shaft is too close to the top of the frame. I will be using all the pieces, just laying it out differently. Any feed back would be appreciated.
Thanks
Ray
Dear Ray…
Ray, 3 or 5 degrees will be fine. We normally set engines up at 4 degrees and that extra bit won’t hurt anything. For some other driveline tips, see http://www.welderseries.com/blog/tech-sharing/motor-mounting-tips/ .
Please send pictures of what you do with our center section… it’s always nice to see our parts ‘in action’.
Thanks for using Welder Series parts.
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