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When We're Closed

We’re getting into that period with Syracuse and Louisville coming up… here’s the official schedule.

Tuesday July 29 - Monday August 4: Closed, in Louisville at the NSRA Street Rod Nationals

We will be able to respond to email and phone messages while we’re away, so please don’t hesitate to call. We will be unable to ship product during those periods though.

Hope to see you this summer!

DW, Paul, Dorothy Horton

A&W Cruise Night

I brought my 7 year old Ruby to the local A&W last night for the cruise… grabbed some burgers, root beer, and gave her the camera. I enjoy seeing what she finds interesting, and I didn’t omit any pictures other than some really fuzzy duplicates and a shot of a license plate.

Shop Rate Follow-Up

Over the last few months, I’ve been asking shops to submit their hourly rate for an important economic study. It was mostly me being a little intrigued, to be honest. I’ve been compiling results in a spreadsheet, and here’s the running average.

I received just over 20 responses, with an average shop rate of $59.48 per hour. The lowest rate provided was $27.50/hr but I’m not sure if that’s a full time shop or just someone who does some building on the side. I don’t understand how that can be sustainable if it’s a full time gig. The highest rate given was $110/hr, but that was way above the more common high of around $75-$85/hr.

Again, this isn’t to say that you should change your rate (but maybe you should!) or to give you leverage if you’re shopping around for a builder. I think it’s probably fair to say that the quality of the work isn’t necessarily correlative to the shop rate.

Here’s a comment I received regarding shop rates/work:

$58 an hour for shop time.. $62 on anything paint and body. On bigger builds you must keep a $2500 deposit at all times. On each project, I pull cash from there for parts. Each billing period the kitty needs re filled to the max of $2500.00. If you don’t pay your invoice I then pull cash from the kitty. Once the kitty is dry, you either refill the kitty or come get your project. easy peasy….

If you want to share any sort of organizational tidbits here, I’m sure they would be helpful.

  • How do you store parts for multiple projects?
  • Do you charge a storage fee to just have someone’s vehicle in your shop?
  • What do you do if there’s a time when the customer is unable to pay for active work? Do you increase the storage charge? Roll the car outside?
  • Do you accept parts supplied by the customer? What if they don’t fit? What if they’re from a supplier you prefer not to work with?
  • Do you mark up parts that you buy for a project? Do you charge retail? If you’re building a car for a customer, part of the advantage to the customer of you (the builder) buying the parts is that you know what you want, and are taking some responsibility for the part fitting. This should be worth something to a customer.
  • How do you account for consumables? Examples: grinding discs, welding rod, air filters, drill bits, etc.
  • How do you keep the customer informed of progress? Email? Facebook?
  • Can the customer add work to the original job? Do you re-quote?
  • Do you quote a job or charge based on time & materials?

I hope I will be able to add more to this post in the future, but for now I wanted to get the info out there. Thanks to everyone who responded. Let’s keep this conversation going.



Photo Sharing: 46 Hudson pickup

Alan used our triangulated four link, transmission mount pieces, and 5.3 engine mount kit. Thanks for the pictures, and great work!

Thought I would share these Pictures of a 1946 Hudson Pick up. I installed the diagonal 4 link, 5.3 With a 4L60 transmission and a Mustang coil over front suspension. I used your diagonal four link, engine mounts and transmission mount. Your products are awesome.

Photo Sharing: Chevy motor mounts

Glenn sent these pics of his C005 installation. Nice work, Glenn!

One great feature of these mounts is that the engine weight is supported by the mount, through the frame rail, instead of by the bolt going through the rubber insulator.

Dear Welder Series… right hand drive Vega bracket?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul

I’m ready to buy all my bits, an NZ freight forwarding company has offered me an introductory 30% off deal. So I’ll give that a go as I think USPS will be a lot.

I will get the rear panhard and the Vega steering but please weld the spacers on the back as it for a right hand drive.

OK. I have been told I need a front panhard, I was looking at your kit, but I have traditional 1930 model a split wishbone radius rods like this

do you think I can just weld a bracket onto the inside of one of the radius rods/arms? And the other end to the chassis rail as per normal, it should be OK. Let me know as  think your kit will be fine if I get the length right.

Cheers  Gary

Dear Gary…
The front Panhard tabs can be welded to the wishbone, Gary.  What axle will you use?  We can weld the Vega spacers on the opposite side for the right hand drive installation.  Please mention this in your order.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… control arms?

Dear Welder Series…
I’m looking to put a Mustang II IFS in my 1966 Ford F100 and I see your crossmember kits but I do not see control arms. Do the aftermarket Tubular control arms from other venders for the Mustang II fit your crossmembers?


Dear Craig…
We don’t make control arms, Craig, but all of the quality arms will fit our crossmember.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series... Ford motor mount dimensions?

Dear Welder Series…
Could I please trouble you for a couple of measurements.

For Ford motor mount #F019 can you tell me a) the outside width between the ears; and b) the total length of the plate.

I’m checking suitability of these mounts for the Aussie Ford straight 6 in my Willys pickup.

Thanks, Paul.

Dear Paul…
Paul, the F019 is 3.66″ outside the ears. The plate is 8.68″ long overall.

Thanks for asking. I hope this helps.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… C4 Corvette control rods?

Dear Welder Series…
Interested in your 1″ OD bars except I would like fixed bushing tubes on both ends (so the length is fixed. Short 1-3/8″ bushings would be used.

These would be to replace Corvette C4 control rods as I need more clearance in a lighter weight application. One pair is approximately 11″ C-C and the other pair approximately 12.5″ C-C. Both ends welded exactly parallel to each other. I would provide exact dimensions at time of order.

Can you make these and what would be an approximate cost? And about how long to make these up? Would be ready to order in about 1-2 months.

Thank you!

Dear Bruce…
Yes, Bruce, we could do this.

They would cost $58 each. Urethane bushings would be extra, if required. Freight would be $15.00 for the pair of bars. We should be able to ship in 5 working days after receiving the length spec and payment in full.

Thanks for asking us to help with your project.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Model A Mustang II spring rate?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I just finished putting on my new Welder Series crossmember on my 1930 model A. Every thing went smooth. Put in my old pinto 4 cyl. springs to see where it sat. Sits a little low, the rack and pinion is not straight. The tie rod ends are pointing up an inch to an inch and a half. What springs do you recommend? I have a chevy 350 in it. I also have 2″ dropped spindles.

Dear Matt…
Matt, you could check with Larry Hooper at Classic Rods and More. (434) 485-1050. He has built a number of Model ‘A’s with that crossmember. I think he’ll be able to give you good info.

Paul Horton