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Welcome back, Halfer Tucci Tab!

It’s true! After a long hiatus, the Halfer has returned.

This time, it’s the tried and true triangular ten gauge Tucci Tab. In shops and on cars around the world, this cute little guy features a 1/8″ pilot hole.

On sale until Christmas 2014.

Regular price $2.70.

Tucci Tab

1-7/8" across the base, 1-1/4" high with a 1/8" pilot hole. Handy to have in the shop. 10 ga steel.



You save $1.35 (50%)!

Affectionately called the “Tucci Tab” for our friend Dave Tucci at Tucci Hot Rods in upstate New York who asked us to produce this piece.

Dear Welder Series… scrap motor mounts

The Dear Welder Series section of the site isn’t just for tech questions. If we feel there is information that would be good for more than one person to know, we’ll add it to this section.

Dear Welder Series…
[Re: #2149 urethane bushed Chevy engine mount kit]
Just bought a set, very week looking, no Harding  bolts. small rubber bushing, thin metal, a real disappointment. we will scrap it and start over.

Dear Steve…
I’m sorry you were disappointed with our products, Steve. These mounts have been used by ourselves and our customers for over 20 years with no reported problems. Our main plate, that attaches to the block, is 1/4” steel with a strengthening lip along the top edge. I have seen other similar mounts using 3/16” without the strengthening lip. The tubes between the main plate and the urethane bushing tube are 7/8″ diameter. Other companies are using 3/4” diameter. The urethane (not rubber) insulating bushings are standard street rod products that are more than up to their job. The bolts are Grade 5. Again, this is more than “hard” enough for the purpose. If you feel that Grade 8 bolts should be used, I agree that a Grade 8 bolt is “harder” than a Grade 5, but the load factor does not warrant that grade. And the plates that weld to the frame are also 3/16”, plenty strong enough for street rods. An easy way to add strength the the frame plates, if the conditions are extreme, is to add a plate to the top of the two motor mount frame supports.

Welder Series takes quality very seriously. We also take customer feedback seriously. Thank you for giving us your opinion, but I don’t feel your concerns are justified unless you are building something that is far out of the realm of mainstream hot rodding.

I phoned yesterday and left a message for you. If you want to talk with me, please call on our toll-free line, 1-888-648-2150.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
I will send you pictures when I complete building a set and you are welcome to use the design. Keep in mind we are dealing with 600hp.

Dear Steve…

Not to beat on this thing too far, Steve, but this link is to the twin-turbo big block built by Lowdown Hot Rods using Welder Series 2149 mounts. This engine is in the 2,000 HP range. The frame plates have been boxed, but this would be easier than starting from scratch. Tom also builds Pro/Mod cars. In the 90’s, Tom worked in my shop and we designed the 2149 together.

Tucci Hot Rods used the 2149 on a twin-turbo Chevy big block in a Nomad.  This was a dyno’d 1,200 HP engine using the mounts as shipped. Dave Tucci has a lot of top fuel funny car experience, and built a Ridler Great 8 1935 Ford a few years ago. 

I hope this helps build your confidence in our products.

Paul Horton.


I will be shutting the phones off from just before 11:00am until 11:10 to observe Remembrance Day ceremonies.

Thanks Grandpa, and everyone else who has served in the interest of peace.

Lest we forget.


Dear Welder Series – triangulated upper bar location

Dear Welder Series…
I am researching the install of your Triangulated Four Link on a 57 Pontiac. Do the rear mounts of the upper bars need to be on top of the axle tube? I noticed, even in the pictures of some installs on this site, that some rear upper bar mounts are on the FRONT of the axle tube. Is there a problem mounting them in front of the tube. I am not sure, in my case, I have the room to mount them on top without cutting up the floor.

Your input would be greatly appreciated.

Dear Writer…
Putting the upper bars on top of the axle tubes gives better leverage advantage than on the front of the tube. The bars can also be longer than with the front mounting position. A downside is that the bar will mount 2 – 3″ higher than with the front-of tube position and this can cause floor interference.

Giving thanks

Today is Thanksgiving in Canada, so the shop is officially closed while we give thanks to God for many many blessings and benefits.

Paul, Dorothy, and DW Horton

Sway bar used on Corvette IFS in 1942 Chevy pickup

Here are some pictures of the installation of a universal sway bar on a 1942 Chevy pickup. I installed it to the rear of the a arm because it gave me much more room. It was going to be very close to and possibly hitting on the tie rods for the rack and pinion steering. I was very pleased with the sway bar and the installation. I will and have recommended your products. Thanks so much,

Sway Bar Kit, Universal

This universal fit sway bar is easy to install and lets you fit the bar to just about any application. 36" or 46" long, trim-to-fit.

$210.00 — $460.00

$125.00 — $460.00

Available 36″ and 46″ wide, but can be cut down (with a hack saw) to any length. The bar is ¾” diameter 4142 cold finished, heat treated, with one end splined ¾-36. The other end of the bar is smooth. This smooth end gets pinned and welded into a coupler which welds to one of the arms. The laser-cut, 3/8″ thick arms are 8″ center-to-center.

Formed tabs weld to the outer tube and connect the bar to the rear crossmember using the coil-over bolts. Urethane bushings insulate road vibration. Rod ends connect the arms to the tabs that weld to the rear end. Overall length is ¾” longer than the bar length, since the 3/8″ arms mount outside the ends of the bar. The arms can be bent to clear the coil-overs.
To mount the sway bar to a crossmember tube without coilover bolts, please see the video “Sway Bar Options”. To order the kit like this, please add a comment in the order check-out. No extra charge.

NEW: One more mounting option has been added: a bracket bolts to the lower coil over holes in the axle bracket and mounts the tube under the axle. Tabs weld to the bottom of your frame rail to mount the heim joints. Depending on your ride height, a male heim joint can be used on either end of a 3/8-24 threaded spacer tube. Please check out the pictures.

The Model A sway bar kit includes a 46″ trim-to-fit sway bar with 3/4-36 splines on one end and no splines on the other end. Trim the bar to the exact length you need, then weld the smooth coupler and the arm to one end. Slip the bar through the outer tube and attach the splined coupler arm to the opposite end. The outer tube goes through the frame rails ahead of the rear end. The arms link to a formed bracket that bolts to the rear axle 4-link side plate. See pictures.

If you want a custom length bar, splined on both ends, we have that available now too. Maximum length 46″. Please allow about 2 weeks for delivery.

The half price kits include a 3/4″ sway bar, splined 2″ on both ends and will include two splined couplers. Available in 18″ (overall length will be the bar length plus 3/4″ for the thickness of two arms) while supplies last.

Installation article on the 2011 NSRA giveaway car: https://www.welderseries.com/blog/2011/04/13/sway-bar-install-on-nsra-33-giveaway/

Installation pictures (1964 Comet): www.welderseries.com/blog/how-to-articles/sway-bar-install-total-performance-64-comet/

Installation pictures (1955 Ford): www.welderseries.com/blog/how-to-articles/sway-bar-install-jh-restorations/

Click here for installation instructions.

Shipping charge is 10% of your order total, minimum $15 and maximum $60. The 36″ sway bar kit would ship for $26. Ships via UPS to the lower 48 States and 10 Provinces. No duty or brokerage charges. No surprises. Tracking information will be emailed.

Welding With DW

I’ve put the welding tips videos in a playlist on YouTube… I hope it’s helpful, or at the very least entertaining. Not the most entertaining thing you do all day, but maybe somewhere around the 9th entertaining.


October 1st, 2005 is the date Welder Series officially established the majority of the prices in our catalog. We were thinking about it just now, and can’t remember too many products with price increases in those nine years. In fact, a good number of prices have actually been lowered as we worked with a new supplier, or were able to buy better. All that said, it’s time to give them a little bump. Our product line will receive a 6% increase on October 1st, 2014. Orders placed until then will be invoiced at pre-price-increase prices.

Our goal is certainly not to have the cheapest parts on the market. We’re not ignorant of the “$150 four link kits” (soon to be “$120 four link kits”) coming from overseas, and have no interest in competing with them on price, because we can’t. My grandpa said “when you live on price, you’ll die on price”. Where we can compete is in providing consistently high quality parts, exceptional service and support, and reasonable prices. That’s the difference between cheap and inexpensive.

Thanks very much for supporting family business as you build your project.
DW, Paul, and Dorothy Horton

1934 Plymouth Mustang II Installed

I recently made the front clip for my project (1934 Plymouth 2 door sedan). It was a pleasure using your Mustang II crossmember kit! My job was easy because the rails are level, square and plumb but the directions were a great help and easy to follow. Thanks for a great product!


You can also see how Jeff made a mock-up coil over using a tube with two tubes welded on the ends. This is always a good thing to have around to keep your car at ride height during the build. Remember, you use the coil over spring to support the car at the designed ride height.

Do you have some Welder Series parts on your car? Please consider sharing them; it’s always helpful to see other people’s work.

Thanks for using our parts, Jeff. Enjoy your Plymouth!


Dear Welder Series… JeepRod Mustang II?

Dear Welder Series…
I am building an army willys jeeprod and I plan to put a mustang II suspension in front of grill. 30 1/2″ outside frame to outside frame. Money is limited so what would a complete kit cost me. I could not find any complete kits on your site. Thanks and God bless.

Dear Pastor Ron…
Ron, we sell only the crossmember kit and a disc brake kit, not a hub-to-hub kit. Several of our dealers offer complete kits using our crossmember. They are listed at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/dealers-builders/ . The 56″ kit will likely need some frame trimming for coil spring clearance.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.

Paul Horton