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Exchange rate = 15% discount on US$

If you weren’t aware that we were an hour and a half outside of the US, this post is going to give you two tidbits of information. One tidbit is going to save you 15% on your hot rod chassis parts, and the other tidbit is for you to be able to tell your friends “no, getting parts from Canada is really easy! I didn’t even know they were in Canada!”

I just checked the exchange rate at www.bankofcanada.ca, and the official report is that $0.81 in US dollars will buy $1 Canadian dollar. Since our prices are in Canadian dollars, that’s like getting a 19% discount off the retail price. Your credit card rate will probably not be as much, but it might be in the 15% range. Depends on the day.

What does that mean in terms of hot rod parts?

A 4″ x 2″ frame curve that costs C$47 would be U$38.07.
A C$410 welded triangulated rear four link kit would be U$332.10. Remember, these aren’t official prices – your credit card company will have it’s own rate. Because that’s what credit card companies do.

You’re probably wondering about shipping… surely it’ll take four weeks and be outrageously expensive, right? Our simple shipping policy is 10% of the order, minimum $15, maximum $60. We try to keep everything in stock. Parts will get anywhere in the US within five business days from when they’re shipped.

Thanks for considering Welder Series parts.

Family Day

Today (Monday) is a holiday in Ontario called “Family Day”. The humans in charge of Welder Series will be officially closed but our email receptionist is still on the clock.

DW Horton

Dear Welder Series… Pinto spindles?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a question  but not sure if i post it here or another way on the site. I am wanting to put pinto spindles on my 70 dodge dart (because i want to put a rack and pinion) and im going to be converting to tubular a arms and a k member. Are all pinto spindles the same and if not what years should i be looking at. Also, are the balljoint tapers the same for mopar and pinto stuff (i heard they were). Ill be putting 73 a body disc brakes on it to get rid of the drum brakes. I love that i found this site. Thank you for any info. If you need me to post another way then just let me know and i will.

Dear Brian…
Good questions, Brian. I can only answer some of them.

There are 2 different Pinto spindles: 1971 – 73 and 1974 – 80. (1974 – 80 pinto and 1974-78 Mustang II are identical.) See  http://www.welderseries.com/blog/?s=pinto+spindle to compare. I like the 74 – 78 spindles because they are bigger and are the ones commonly used in Mustang II crossmember kits, including ours. 1971 – 73 are often used on drag race cars, probably because they are lighter. There are big brake kits available for the early spindles, but I’d say you have more big brake choices for the later spindles.

Moog K772 ball joints fit the late spindles, but I don’t know about the early ones. When using the K772 as a lower ball joint on the later spindles, use our K772S spacer and the stock ball joint washer under the nut. Without the spacer and washer, the nut will not draw the tapered ball joint stud into the hole tightly.

I don’t know if adapter kits are available to put the 73 A-body brakes on the Mustang II spindle.

Thanks for checking out Welder Series parts. I hope we can help with your project.

Paul Horton

Wes Killins 1940-2015

This note was sent by Jim Prowse this morning:
“It is with tears of sadness and dismay , that we advise of the death of our great pal and car buddy , Wes Killins.

Wes died peacefully , approx 5 am, on Jan 31 2015 , with family by his side .

Funeral will be at Westview Funeral Chapel , Wonderland Rd , in London Ontario , see their website for details , as arrangements are not yet finalized.
www.westviewfuneralchapel.com [email protected] 519 641 1793

Cards and condolences are welcomed , BUT , please refrain from calling the home , Joan and Scott need their privacy.

sent at the request of Joan , Scott , and Wayne Killins”
Wes was a great guy to be around, and will be missed.

Photo sharing: frame curves

Steven sent these pictures back at the end of December, and sine he was the only person who sent pictures, he “wins” the $50 credit on his account!

Nice work, Steven.

Driveshaft angle & phasing video

If you’ve been baffled by a driveline vibration, this video explains what happens when the angle between the transmission and pinion are off or out of phase.

Dear Welder Series… Duramax engine mounts?

Dear Welder Series…
Will the ls200 mounts also bolt to a 6.6 duramax block? If you don’t know, what are measurements between the center of the holes? Can you make custom?

Chris

Dear Chris…
Chris, I don’t know if the LS200 will fit the 6.6 Duramax, but the hole centers in the mount are very close to 4-7/16” x 3-1/16”. (The hole centers are probably metric.)

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… scrap motor mounts

The Dear Welder Series section of the site isn’t just for tech questions. If we feel there is information that would be good for more than one person to know, we’ll add it to this section.

Dear Welder Series…
[Re: #2149 urethane bushed Chevy engine mount kit]
Just bought a set, very week looking, no Harding  bolts. small rubber bushing, thin metal, a real disappointment. we will scrap it and start over.
Steve

Dear Steve…
I’m sorry you were disappointed with our products, Steve. These mounts have been used by ourselves and our customers for over 20 years with no reported problems. Our main plate, that attaches to the block, is 1/4” steel with a strengthening lip along the top edge. I have seen other similar mounts using 3/16” without the strengthening lip. The tubes between the main plate and the urethane bushing tube are 7/8″ diameter. Other companies are using 3/4” diameter. The urethane (not rubber) insulating bushings are standard street rod products that are more than up to their job. The bolts are Grade 5. Again, this is more than “hard” enough for the purpose. If you feel that Grade 8 bolts should be used, I agree that a Grade 8 bolt is “harder” than a Grade 5, but the load factor does not warrant that grade. And the plates that weld to the frame are also 3/16”, plenty strong enough for street rods. An easy way to add strength the the frame plates, if the conditions are extreme, is to add a plate to the top of the two motor mount frame supports.

Welder Series takes quality very seriously. We also take customer feedback seriously. Thank you for giving us your opinion, but I don’t feel your concerns are justified unless you are building something that is far out of the realm of mainstream hot rodding.

I phoned yesterday and left a message for you. If you want to talk with me, please call on our toll-free line, 1-888-648-2150.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
I will send you pictures when I complete building a set and you are welcome to use the design. Keep in mind we are dealing with 600hp.
Steve

Dear Steve…
http://lowdownhotrods.smugmug.com/What-weve-done/Complete-Turn-Key-Projects/69-Camaro/17895390_zf26RF#!i=1679198754&k=2XdCpsj

Not to beat on this thing too far, Steve, but this link is to the twin-turbo big block built by Lowdown Hot Rods using Welder Series 2149 mounts. This engine is in the 2,000 HP range. The frame plates have been boxed, but this would be easier than starting from scratch. Tom also builds Pro/Mod cars. In the 90’s, Tom worked in my shop and we designed the 2149 together.

Tucci Hot Rods used the 2149 on a twin-turbo Chevy big block in a Nomad.  This was a dyno’d 1,200 HP engine using the mounts as shipped. Dave Tucci has a lot of top fuel funny car experience, and built a Ridler Great 8 1935 Ford a few years ago. 

I hope this helps build your confidence in our products.

Paul Horton.

Remembering

I will be shutting the phones off from just before 11:00am until 11:10 to observe Remembrance Day ceremonies.

Thanks Grandpa, and everyone else who has served in the interest of peace.

Lest we forget.

http://www.cbc.ca/news

Dear Welder Series – triangulated upper bar location

Dear Welder Series…
I am researching the install of your Triangulated Four Link on a 57 Pontiac. Do the rear mounts of the upper bars need to be on top of the axle tube? I noticed, even in the pictures of some installs on this site, that some rear upper bar mounts are on the FRONT of the axle tube. Is there a problem mounting them in front of the tube. I am not sure, in my case, I have the room to mount them on top without cutting up the floor.

Your input would be greatly appreciated.

Dear Writer…
Putting the upper bars on top of the axle tubes gives better leverage advantage than on the front of the tube. The bars can also be longer than with the front mounting position. A downside is that the bar will mount 2 – 3″ higher than with the front-of tube position and this can cause floor interference.