Dear Welder Series…
Attached are pictures of my plan for the Welder Series rear sway bar kit that I am installing on my ’32 Ford project. At this time it is tacked in place and I think it will work as I hope. I still need to tweak the positioning. I ran the bar through the square tube crossmember and the arms ended up directly over the rear axle. Also you can see the Welder Series exhaust hangers near the transmission tail housing and one behind the pipe passing over the rear axle. These are the parts that I recently ordered from you.
The bar runs through the square tube crossmember.
Our exhaust hangers were used as well.
I am interested in your anti roll/sway bar kit you have, I am wondering if it is good for the street or only for racing.
Dear Welder Series…
I have a quick question relating to the rear axle/ triangulated four-link:
Will I need a rear sway bar in addition to the triangulated four-link set-up? I see conflicting responses online, and figured you may have the best answer.
Depending on who is doing the defining, a sway bar might refer to an anti-roll bar (shown below):
or a Panhard bar (shown below):
Our sway bar/anti-roll bar is designed to resist the tendency to lean when in a turn. A Panhard bar keeps the frame centered, with some tolerance, between the tires and has a minimal effect on the tendency to lean in a turn.A Panhard bar, or some other location device, is necessary when a parallel rear 4-link is used because the bars themselves don’t offer much resistance to left-right chassis movement. (Left-right movement is different from leaning or rolling left to right.)
The triangulation of the bars resists the left-right movement when a triangulated rear 4-link is used so a Panhard bar is not required.
I hope this is clear.
Thanks for asking.
Jonathan sent in some pictures of his Welder Series sway bar install during February, and was chosen by the random computational software at www.random.org as the winner.
There is $50 on your account here to be used against future purchases.
If you haven’t sent in pictures of our parts on your car, please email them through to firstname.lastname@example.org. At the beginning of each month, I’ll draw from the last months submissions for the winner. If you weren’t chosen, you’ll be entered in the next months draw as well, so you have two chances to win.
Do you make your universal sway bar in 0.500 inch diameter. The 48 Plymouth Conv I'm working on never had a rear sway bar and I may not be able to use anything greater than 0.750 on the front.
Don has been sending progress pictures of his Healey build for a while now... I hope he still has $50 of Welder Series parts to buy, because he's the winner of this months photo sharing draw!
I am running a blown 440 in it and she can be allot to handle at time. I can feel it sway back and forth when I have in it hard. Do you have something that will work for me?
Congrats, Lou! Thanks for sending the pictures of your sway bar install. There is $50 on your account at Welder Series.
While I was at Tucci Hot Rods last week, I installed a Welder Series universal sway bar on the giveaway car they're building for the NSRA this year. It was a good exercise- installing something you sell ;)
Lou asks about sway bar placement on the rear end of his 1951 F1 pickup.
I received these pictures from JH Restorations as submissions to our monthly photo draw, and as I looked at the rest of the pictures in his Facebook album, I thought they would be good to use on our site too.
I've been looking at your sway bar kits for a rear application. Is there any provision for mounting through the frame rails but having the arms and links on the inside of the frame rails?
I just received an email from Grant Schwartz (say "shh-warts") of Schwartz Welding with some pictures of a Welder Series universal sway bar being used in a Mustang II application.
Working on a 31' Buick and looking for a rear sway bar kit. Rear end is a 71 Corvette using complete Vette sub-frame clip.