Yes, that’s the name of the holiday… we’ll be closed today (Monday) to observe this day off. Please leave us a note on our good old email box, or Facebook, or by recording your voice on our digital machine. We hope you have a good Family Day too!
The exchange rate saves you money on chassis parts!
Here’s a quick bit of info on how we matched the rack to our 62-1/2″ Mustang II crossmember.
Theoretically, you could widen a Mustang II crossmember as much as you wanted… the key is protecting the control arm pivot points and tie rod geometry. When you’re thinking of widening a Mustang II rack, there are two ways to do it properly… outside the bushings and inside the bushings.
‘Outside the bushings’ refers to pushing the tie rod ball and socket joint towards the wheel. This has to be done the same amount as the crossmember is wider than stock – typically 2″ per side on a 4″ wider than stock configuration. Longer tie rod ends can also be used on a 58″ wide crossmember.
‘Inside the bushings’ refers to lengthening the actual rack and rack housing. For a much wider crossmember, this might be a good option… there are even racks available that are wider than stock for this purpose. Your crossmember will have to be set up or modified for a wider rack. Welder Series crossmembers are designed to use rack extenders – the ‘outside the bushing’ method.
On my 1968 D100 truck build, I used a Welder Series 62-1/2″ track width crossmember, with rack extenders from Heidts. I used two (4″ total) on the passenger side, and one (2″ total) on the driver side. Our rack mounts favor the driver side, so the steering input shaft is closer to the frame rail and will be more likely to be aimed away from your headers.
Note: the rack bushings mount with the shoulder against the crossmember, and the serrations biting in to the rack mounts. Use a bolt size washer (included in our #24410 power rack mounting kit) on the front of the bushing, and let the bushing mushroom as you tighten the nut.
The shop will be closed from Thursday till Monday while we’re at the Syracuse Nationals. We don’t have a booth again this year, but I’ll be around the Tucci Hot Rods booth if you’d like to talk with me.
If you’re on Instagram and Facebook and going to Syracuse, you’ll want to make sure you’re following us (just search for welderseries) because I’ll be posting throughout the weekend, and playing a little interactive game with prizes!
Thanks for your support. We’re looking forward to enjoying the weekend. Say hi if you see me!
As we progress through this 1968 Dodge D100 pickup build, you might see a product that catches your fancy… here’s a (fairly) comprehensive list of what we used.
|Mustang II front crossmember kit||Welder Series||219625||https://www.welderseries.com/Mustang-II-Crossmember-Kit-Coil-Overs-p51209593|
|Upper control arms||RideTech||19013699||http://www.ridetech.com/store/mustang-ii-strongarms-front-upper.html|
|Lower control arms||RideTech||19012899||http://www.ridetech.com/store/mustang-ii-strongarms-shockwave-front-lower.html|
|Front boxing plates||Welder Series||680001||https://www.welderseries.com/Front-frame-boxing-plate-1961-71-Dodge-D100-p77777686|
|Front C Notch||Welder Series||12202||https://www.welderseries.com/Front-C-Notch-Fill-Piece-p51047358||For rack bellows clearance.|
|Rack Extension Kit||Heidts||MP-039-4||http://www.heidts.com/part/4-rack-extension-power-kit-mp-039-4/||We added 4" to the passenger side and 2" to the driver side.|
|Ride height setup tool||Welder Series||405711||https://www.welderseries.com/Ride-Height-Set-Up-Tool-p83035424|
|Front Shockwaves||RideTech||21140101||http://www.ridetech.com/store/1000-series-single-adjustable-shockwave||12.8" ride height, 4.1" stroke.|
|Rear Shockwaves||RideTech||21150801||http://www.ridetech.com/store/8000-series-single-adjustable-shockwave||14.6" ride height, 5" stroke.|
|Triangulated rear four link||Welder Series||318500||https://www.welderseries.com/Triangulated-Four-Link-Kit-p49926314||Lower bars mounted directly under the frame rails.|
|Rear upper frame bracket boxing plate||Welder Series||680002||https://www.welderseries.com/Triangulated-four-link-upper-frame-bracket-Dodge-D100-1961-71-p77777682|
|Rear step notch kit||Welder Series||219707||https://www.welderseries.com/Step-Notch-Kit-p50202433||Kit modified to be max. 3.5" above bed floor.|
|Sway bar kit||Welder Series||WS22740||https://www.welderseries.com/Universal-Sway-Bar-Kit-p49762034||Kit modified: larger outer tube used as upper Shockwave crossmember.|
|Front wheels||Wheel Vintiques||12-671204||https://www.wheelvintiques.com/wheels/smoothie-bare-finish.html||16x7 Smoothie, 4" backspacing|
|Front tires||Michelin||73391||http://www.1010tires.com/Tires/Michelin/Defender/73391||225/60R16. I bought them locally (Car Lane Automotive in Guelph). I think I'd go with a slightly shorter sidewall if I was doing it again.|
|Rear wheels||Wheel Vintiques||12-7912054||https://www.wheelvintiques.com/wheels/smoothie-bare-finish.html||17x9 Smoothie, 5-1/4" backspacing|
|Rear tires||Michelin||30842||http://www.1010tires.com/Tires/Michelin/Premier+LTX||275/55R17. These are just about as wide as we could get up in the wheel well. I bought these locally (Car Lane Automotive in Guelph).|
|A/C System: Gen IV Magnum||Vintage Air||671400-VUZ||http://vintageair.com/2017%20Catalog/2017%20Vintage%20Air%20Catalog%2044.pdf||Evaporator kit.|
|Gen IV Magnum mock-up unit||Vintage Air||671450||Check your local hot rod parts store.|
|Under dash control pod||Vintage Air||492050||Lots of control options... this is the basic one.|
|Dash louvers||Vintage Air||49052-VUL||I'll use three of these in the dash.|
|Control knob bezels||Vintage Air||484178|
|Compressor bracket||Vintage Air||162774-SDA||Compressor/alternator bracket for 318.|
|Compressor||Vintage Air||047000-SUR||Double V groove, rear exit.|
|Drier||Vintage Air||07323-VUC||Includes trinary switch and bracket.|
After selecting the fabric from the LeBaron Bonney catalog (direct link) and giving Peter an admittedly vague description of what I was thinking for the seat, I had to accomplish one of the most difficult tasks in building a project: waiting.
I have complete confidence in Peter’s ability to interpret my muddled attempts at describing a finished product, so there was no stress over that. I was more worried about the fabric, since I was the one who picked it, not heeding the advice of even my wife who has an uncanny ability to see color. She has chosen the EXACT color swatch sample from Home Depot three times over a period of about five years. Color doesn’t initially register as an adjective when I’m first looking at a car, for example. Anyways, this seat is AMAZING. Peter used the stock frame which was supplied with the truck (the seat that came installed was from a 1970 Fury 4 door). He refinished, painted, fixed the springs, added new foam… and kept the fabric aligned perfectly. I know it looks a bit purple in the pictures, but it’s actually a nice deep blue.
This is a nice step forward… I can make vroom vroom noises now!
I always appreciate a good “reusal” of parts to either change their intended function, or to keep their original function but in a slightly different way. Using body trim tastefully from one model on a different car comes to mind. The reused part needs to fit the theme, however, and not merely look like it was used because it was 8:45 on a Sunday night, and the auto parts store workers were on strike.
In removing the original leaf spring rear suspension on the Sweptline, I ended up taking the bump stops off the frame too. They weren’t lined up with axle centerline, and I decided I could use the space outside the rails where they were sticking out. Also, they were going to be in the space I needed to remove for step notch clearance. I like the piece itself; just not where it was mounted.
After the notches were installed, I started to think about bump stops and remembered I still had the originals, so I cleaned them up, made a few tweaks, and present them to you now!
I won’t be installing them until I have the truck sitting with the Shockwaves fully collapsed so I know where it actually needs to be. They’ll be welded to the inside of the frame rails on the step notch.
If you need new bump stops, Energy Suspension has a bunch of options. Check out this reseller’s listing (I find it easier to search than the official website): http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-bump-stops-shock-eyes.asp
The original seat heads to the spa for a complete makeover.
Dear Welder Series…
I have a couple questions about your 4 link kit. With the adjuster just on one end, wouldn’t it be best to just forget the jam nut? With a rubber boot to keep the dirt out, wouldn’t this let the bar “twist” and prevent binding? I’d have thought that the nut would work loose anyway as the adjuster attempted to loosen or tighten when you go over a bump with one wheel.
Also, I assume your adjusters and bars are a mild steel. How do I stop them from rusting after welding? Do you recommend plating? I would paint the bars etc but I’m unsure about the threaded portions.
Hi, Miles. For street use, the bushings have enough elasticity to absorb the twist and not loosen the jam nuts. Even lubricated, it’s likely that the threads in the mild steel bars and adjuster studs would wear and either fail or have to be replaced periodically.
Thread the adjusters into the bars without the jam nuts to keep the threads clean, or just mask off the portion of the thread that will go into the bar.
Thanks for your interest in Welder Series parts.
You may remember the first version of the license plate frame was a Bob Drake stamped stainless piece that I sliced and welded to the spreader bar. If you don’t remember, re-read that first sentence, omitting the first three words. Here’s a pic:
Somewhere between Syracuse and home, and then again somewhere between home and Louisville, the turbulence at the back of the car was working the frame and breaking the weld. It was a challenge to weld the thin frame to the heavier wall spreader bar, and every time it broke off, I had to clean and re-weld it where it had already been heated. Suffice to say, I was ready for a revision.
I’ve been posting videos on YouTube of various steps in our D100 build… since you’re here, check out the playlist:
Garth knows our products so well that he was able to recall a discontinued piece that's tucked away on the bottom shelf!
Dear Welder Series…
Hi! I’m building a 53 Buick Special in Memphis and was looking for some info on Mustang 2 IFS. I’d like to build my own setup but not really sure where to begin! Any info would be greatly appreciated and any parts to get me going I would definitely purchase! Thanks for your time!
Dear Mustang II In Memphis…
Thanks for looking at the Welder Series site and asking about our parts for your project.
The easiest way (and it’s not easy…) is to cut off the stock frame at the firewall and use rectangular tubing as new front frame rails. The Mustang II crossmember and towers will mount to them. It will be necessary to fab mounts to support the rad (cradle) and front end sheet metal. There are several pictures on our website where builders have done this. See them at:
We want to help you enjoy this build.
Dear Welder Series…
Any idea whether the center section will work with a 67-72 C10, and do any of the trans mounts fit a 4L80E?
Thanks for this note, Russell.
Could you give me your frame’s outside and inside widths (driver’s side to passenger’s side) at the transmission insulator?
…and the frame rail channel height at that point? (The actual frame size, not the height from the ground.)
I’ll see how the center section looks in those dimensions and get back to you.
Dear Welder Series…
I’ve got the following:
Outside frame rail width: 34-1/8″
Inside frame rail top: 29.5″
Inside frame rail bottom: 29″
Frame rail height: 6″
The center section will be snug but fine if the rails are boxed corner-to-corner off of the upper flange. If the plates are “step boxed” it will give extra space for a frame mounted booster.
This is based on how the curved lower tubes transition to the boxing plates.
I hope this info helps with your planning.