Ws318500 | Welder Series Inc.

Dear Welder Series… 1968 Chevy pickup rear suspension?

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 68 Chevy c10 pickup that I would like to replace the trailing arms w an adjustable 4 link setup using a Chevy 10 bolt rear. I would like to delete the Panhard bar also.
What do you recommend? Do you have a complete kit w shocks and springs?

Thanks Chris

Dear Chris…
If you want to eliminate the Panhard bar, our triangulated kit would be a good way to go, Chris. You can get details at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated.

If your GM 10 bolt rear end has the ears on the differential case, you could look at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-kit-rear-8-8-ford/ .

I’d suggest the big bushing kit.

Sorry, we don’t sell coil-overs.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… MII & rear four link dimension questions…

Dear Welder Series…
Hi there

I’m working on figuring out ride height and road clearance for my 51 Chevy if I use your MII set up and have a few questions, hoping you can assist.

1. For your MII front crossmember, what is the distance from the underside of the chevy frame to the bottom of the crossmember and what should a reasonable /safe clearance below the crossmember to the road be?

2. What is the distance from the spindle centerline to the underside of the crossmember. (assuming 2” drop spindle)

I am trying to determine from this what size wheel/tire size should be.

3. For the rear suspension, triangulated 4 link kit or individual pieces, can you please clarify the dimensions of your bars so I can figure out where they will attach to my frame?.

Your drawing indicates the lower bar should be 27-1/8 from the axle centerline but you list a 27-7/8 bar and then 23-1/8 bar and nothing in between.

Are dimensions nominally center to center on the bushings? Or center of bushing to edge of notch?

4. The upper bar should attach about 15 from the axle centerline according to your drawing so I want to see where that would end up mounting on the axle.

Can you clarify roughly what angle in plan view the upper bars are relative to the axle or roughly what length the upper bars are so I can figure out where they will sit and if that is similar to your drawing showing the bars 2-1/8 above the axle centerline?

Thanks very much for your assistance.!!

Steve

Dear Steve…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project, Steve.

I suggest you choose the tire size that you feel is best for your project, rather than work from ground clearance up. Our crossmember can be notched to accommodate the ride height you want with the tire size you choose.

I’m going to duck the ground clearance question… This depends on the roads you travel as well as possible laws in your area. NSRA has a practical suggestion with their scrub line definition. This is defined at http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms/pub_45/appendix.pdf . Some areas say the line should be drawn from wheel rim to wheel rim and no suspension component should below that line.

With a 2″ dropped spindle, it is 7-1/4″ from spindle c/l to the bottom of our crossmember.

The dimensions on the triangulated rear 4-link installation sheets are correct. The assumption is that you know where the axle centerline is but don’t know where our axle bracket locates the urethane bushing. The bar length is from the center of the urethane bushing tube to the threaded end of the bar. The adjuster is not included in this length. Add 1-3/4″ for the large bushing adjuster. Note that the lower bar for the triangulated kit is the 23-1/8″ bar. (The 27-7/8″ bar is 7/8″ diameter and is used in our universal rear Panhard kit and the hiboy front 4-link kit.)

The frame brackets for the upper bars will likely have to be trimmed to the angle suited to your frame width and rear axle.

Thanks for these questions. I hope this info, and the install sheets online help you.

Dear Welder Series… pieced-together four link kit?

Dear Welder Series…
I love your website. I have a 1978 trans am I am building a 4 link for. It weighs aprox 3800 lbs and around 500 hp. I’m not looking to drag race or auto cross the car, but I do have air ride shock waves. I was looking at your big bushing triangulated but all I need are the axle mounts, bars, bushings, and some upper shock mounts. I wouldn’t need the axle tabs or either frame mounts. The upper bars are around 9.25 inches eye to eye and the lower are 24.5 inches eye to eye.
Please let me know what my best option would be.

thank you Brad

Dear Brad…
Brad, the custom length bars, lower axle brackets, and urethane bushings would cost Cdn $418.00 as individual pieces. For that same amount you can get the whole kit with 4 custom bars substituted for the standard ones. The complete kit, #318500, is at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/. We have a special bolt and spacer kit for the lower ShockWave mount, #23210, for Cdn $16.26.

For upper ShockWave mounts we have a crossmember kit, #WS154460, shown at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-crossmember-kit/ .

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… triangulated four link question

Dear Welder Series…
Hi guys, just read the instructions for the rear triangle 4-link and just wondering, are the upper and lower bars supposed to end up parallel with one another? It appears that they should be by looking at your drawing but its noted stated specifically.

Thanks,

Dave

Dear Dave…
Hi, Dave. The triangulated rear 4-link bars are not parallel when viewed from the side. The front of the lower bar is about 1/2″ higher than the rear. The front of the upper bar is about 7/8″ lower than the rear. We have found that there is a fair bit of tolerance for the position of the frame mounts, but the instructions are the “best” way to install them.

Good question.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… S10 four link?

Dear Welder Series…
Good morning, I want to install a 4-link kit on my 95 S-10. I was hoping you could recommend a kit. If you could tell me what else I would need like the Panhard bar the bag brackets and whatever else you would recommend I would greatly appreciate this.

Thank you,
John

Dear John…
John, our WS318500 (ready-to-weld) or 318500 (welded) kits would be ideal for this job. I’d also suggest the (WS)2184 rear Panhard bar kit if you’re thinking of a parallel four link kit. The 474208 frame brackets and 21870 axle brackets will look after the air bags if you are using the F9000 or similar.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… rear 4 link brackets

Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in buying your 4 Link bracketry; does it come with, or can you provide, some instruction of how to locate the frame brackets relative to the axle brackets? This will be used on a street car with a blown Big Block.

I’m thinking that the lower bars should be installed parallel to the ground, or a tad up in the front. Should i do this using the “middle” holes on the bottom of each bracket and give adjustment both up and down? Or, what do you suggest?

Thanks!!!!

Don

Dear Don…
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/

Don, the link above takes you to the triangulated 4-link page. Scrolling down, you will come to some links that give the info you are asking about. The frame end of the lower bar will be 1/2″ higher than the axle end, so you are right. I like to build using your “middle hole” reasoning, too.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Four Link Question

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1956 Chev truck and want to put a 4 link in the back. I was thinking of a triangulated one. Would that work? The frame is 34 inches wide. Or should I use a parallel 4 bar and a panhard bar and which kit # do you recommend? thank you Dave

Dear Dave…
Dave, this is a good question… There are several considerations when choosing a rear suspension system.
An important one is frame width.
A typical triangulated rear 4-link has the upper bars mounting off of the frame boxing plates and angling back to each side of the differential housing. The narrower the frame, the less triangulation is possible unless the upper bars get shorter. Shorter upper bars cause greater pinion angle change. The upper bars could be angled from wide apart on the axle tubes to close together off of a crossmember to get more triangulation.

A parallel 4-link and Panhard bar is not as sensitive to frame width. The bars should be mounted as wide apart as practical to stabilize the rear end.

The triangulated system requires more precise installation. It costs less because there is no Panhard kit.

The parallel 4-link/Panhard system allows adjustment in any direction with a minimal effect on other settings.

Both systems can cause problems with exhaust routing.

I recommend the parallel kit because it’s easier to install and easier to set up.

Thanks for writing. I hope we can help with your project.

Paul Horton

Welder Series Inc.

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Dear Welder Series… 1968 Chevy pickup rear suspension?

Dear Welder Series… MII & rear four link dimension questions…

Dear Welder Series… pieced-together four link kit?

Dear Welder Series… triangulated four link question

Dear Welder Series… S10 four link?

Dear Welder Series… rear 4 link brackets

Dear Welder Series… Four Link Question

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