|
|
Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in your anti roll/sway bar kit you have, I am wondering if it is good for the street or only for racing. I have seen other companies say for racing only, so I am just curious.
Bill
Dear Bill…
Bill, our sway bar, and all Welder Series parts, are designed for street rod/hot rod applications. We have this bar on our ’32 Ford coupe. The sway bar is probably lighter than most racers would want.
Thanks for asking.
Dear Welder Series…
I have a quick question relating to the rear axle/ triangulated four-link:
Will I need a rear sway bar in addition to the triangulated four-link set-up? I see conflicting responses online, and figured you may have the best answer.
Thanks,
-A
Dear A…
Depending on who is doing the defining, a sway bar might refer to an anti-roll bar ( http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/sway-bar-kit/) or a Panhard bar ( http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-universal-rear/). Our sway bar/anti-roll bar is designed to resist the tendency to lean when in a turn. A Panhard bar keeps the frame centered, with some tolerance, between the tires and has a minimal effect on the tendency to lean in a turn.
A Panhard bar, or some other location device, is necessary when a parallel rear 4-link is used because the bars themselves don’t offer much resistance to left-right chassis movement. (Left-right movement is different from leaning or rolling left to right.)
The triangulation of the bars resists the left-right movement when a triangulated rear 4-link is used so a Panhard bar is not required.
I hope this is clear.
Thanks for asking.
Congrats, Jonathan!
Jonathan sent in some pictures of his Welder Series sway bar install during February, and was chosen by the random computational software at www.random.org as the winner.
There is $50 on your account here to be used against future purchases.
If you haven’t sent in pictures of our parts on your car, please email them through to [email protected] At the beginning of each month, I’ll draw from the last months submissions for the winner. If you weren’t chosen, you’ll be entered in the next months draw as well, so you have two chances to win.
Dear Welder Series…
Do you make your universal sway bar in 0.500 inch diameter. The 48 Plymouth Conv I’m working on never had a rear sway bar and I may not be able to use anything greater than 0.750 on the front.
Bob
Dear Bob…
Bob, all of our sway bars are .75″ diameter. The outer tube, which serves as a bearing (urethane bushing) holder and a place for the mounting tabs, is 1-3/8″ O.D.
Thanks for looking at our parts.
Paul Horton.
Don has been sending progress pictures of his Healey build for a while now… I hope he still has $50 of Welder Series parts to buy, because he’s the winner of this months photo sharing draw!
Don used a sway bar on the front and rear, frame curves, and various bits and pieces on this home built chassis. Check out the customized sway bar arms!
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul
I was wondering if you can tell me if one of your universal rear sway bar kits will work for me. I have a 33 plymouth 5 window Pro street car.
I am running a blown 440 in it and she can be allot to handle at time. I can feel it sway back and forth when I have in it hard. Do you have something that will work for me?
Also do you have instal pics and instructions I can look at?
Thanks Paul
Jamie
Dear Jamie…
Jamie, Tom VanDerGeld, now owner of Lowdown Hot Rods (http://lowdownhotrods.com/) worked with me on the initial design of our sway bar in the mid-90′s. He and his father-in-law were big pro-street fans and he wanted sway bars on the back of every pro-street chassis we produced.
There are pictures and an install article at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/sway-bar-kit/ .
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul, I appreciate your help.
Jamie
Congrats, Lou! Thanks for sending the pictures of your sway bar install. There is $50 on your account at Welder Series.
Remember, the contest is completely random- I enter the number of applicants at www.random.org and hit “generate”. The entrants who didn’t win this month are automatically entered in the draw next month too!
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/photo-sharing/
If you have Welder Series parts on your project, all it takes is a quick picture and you’ll have the chance to win a $50 credit on your account here, just like Lou.
I received these pictures from JH Restorations as submissions to our monthly photo draw, and as I looked at the rest of the pictures in his Facebook album, I thought they would be good to use on our site too. The captions are taken right from their Facebook album.
 So the body is off to paint so mow we have to finish up the frame. Here we are going to be replacing the rear stamped steel cross member with a 1″5/8 bar. This will not only clean up the look but it will give us a place to mount our sway bar.  Once we have determined where we want the bar we used a hole saw and cut out both sides of the boxed frame and slid the bar inside. This will five the frame plenty of strength when it is all welded up.  Next we had to cut the Welder Series sway bar by about an inch. The Tube was already cut off and Jordan used it as a gauge to cut the correct length off of the sway bar.  Here the bar is mocked up in the frame.  Now it is time to weld the arm to the end of the bar. This small steel ring Jordan made will ensure that enverything is centered.  Here you can see where the bar will be welded to the coupler ends on the sway bar.  Here is the final assembly before everything gets paint and powder coat.  Here is the Sway bar. The smaller Spring steel bar rides inside or the larger tube, and is issolated by poly bushing at either end. We also used Welder Series alternate swaybar mounting method.  Here is a close look at the sway bar disassembled. For more information on the set up visit www.Welderseries.com Paul and DW have always been great to deal with.  Here you can seen the black tube at the top. That is housing the Fords new sway bar. Parts:
WS22700 Universal Sway Bar
Check out the complete build of this 1955 Ford Custom Line.
Dear Welder Series…
I’ve been looking at your sway bar kits for a rear application. Is there any provision for mounting through the frame rails but having the arms and links on the inside of the frame rails?
Norman
Dear Norman…
This could be done by drilling a 3/4″ diameter (actually 13/16″ would be better for clearance) hole in the arms for the bar to pass through. Use smooth couplers both ends (instead of one end splined) and pin the arms to the bar. The frame rails should be boxed if they are not already. A short length of the 1-3/8″ OD tubing would be welded into each frame rail and the urethane bushings would be inserted from the driveshaft side of the frame rails.
It might be more convenient (for installation and removal) to put a crossmember in the frame and mount the sway bar off of this tube. The sway bar could be mounted behind the crossmember at the same height.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts. We like to hear about imaginative ways of accomplishing things.
Paul Horton
I just received an email from Grant Schwartz (say “shh-warts”) of Schwartz Welding with some pictures of a Welder Series universal sway bar being used in a Mustang II application. I thought I’d pass on the pics to feed your imagination engines!
Parts used:
Universal sway bar kit (36″ trim-to-fit)
#70004 tab
|
|
Comments