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Congrats, Jonathan!
Jonathan sent in some pictures of his Welder Series sway bar install during February, and was chosen by the random computational software at www.random.org as the winner.
There is $50 on your account here to be used against future purchases.
If you haven’t sent in pictures of our parts on your car, please email them through to pictures@welderseries.com. At the beginning of each month, I’ll draw from the last months submissions for the winner. If you weren’t chosen, you’ll be entered in the next months draw as well, so you have two chances to win.
Dear Welder Series…
Do you make your universal sway bar in 0.500 inch diameter. The 48 Plymouth Conv I’m working on never had a rear sway bar and I may not be able to use anything greater than 0.750 on the front.
Bob
Dear Bob…
Bob, all of our sway bars are .75″ diameter. The outer tube, which serves as a bearing (urethane bushing) holder and a place for the mounting tabs, is 1-3/8″ O.D.
Thanks for looking at our parts.
Paul Horton.
Don has been sending progress pictures of his Healey build for a while now… I hope he still has $50 of Welder Series parts to buy, because he’s the winner of this months photo sharing draw!
Don used a sway bar on the front and rear, frame curves, and various bits and pieces on this home built chassis. Check out the customized sway bar arms!
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul
I was wondering if you can tell me if one of your universal rear sway bar kits will work for me. I have a 33 plymouth 5 window Pro street car.
I am running a blown 440 in it and she can be allot to handle at time. I can feel it sway back and forth when I have in it hard. Do you have something that will work for me?
Also do you have instal pics and instructions I can look at?
Thanks Paul
Jamie
Dear Jamie…
Jamie, Tom VanDerGeld, now owner of Lowdown Hot Rods (http://lowdownhotrods.com/) worked with me on the initial design of our sway bar in the mid-90′s. He and his father-in-law were big pro-street fans and he wanted sway bars on the back of every pro-street chassis we produced.
There are pictures and an install article at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/sway-bar-kit/ .
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul, I appreciate your help.
Jamie
Congrats, Lou! Thanks for sending the pictures of your sway bar install. There is $50 on your account at Welder Series.
Remember, the contest is completely random- I enter the number of applicants at www.random.org and hit “generate”. The entrants who didn’t win this month are automatically entered in the draw next month too!
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/photo-sharing/
If you have Welder Series parts on your project, all it takes is a quick picture and you’ll have the chance to win a $50 credit on your account here, just like Lou.
Dear Welder Series…
I’ve been looking at your sway bar kits for a rear application. Is there any provision for mounting through the frame rails but having the arms and links on the inside of the frame rails?
Norman
Dear Norman…
This could be done by drilling a 3/4″ diameter (actually 13/16″ would be better for clearance) hole in the arms for the bar to pass through. Use smooth couplers both ends (instead of one end splined) and pin the arms to the bar. The frame rails should be boxed if they are not already. A short length of the 1-3/8″ OD tubing would be welded into each frame rail and the urethane bushings would be inserted from the driveshaft side of the frame rails.
It might be more convenient (for installation and removal) to put a crossmember in the frame and mount the sway bar off of this tube. The sway bar could be mounted behind the crossmember at the same height.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts. We like to hear about imaginative ways of accomplishing things.
Paul Horton
I just received an email from Grant Schwartz (say “shh-warts”) of Schwartz Welding with some pictures of a Welder Series universal sway bar being used in a Mustang II application. I thought I’d pass on the pics to feed your imagination engines!
Parts used:
Universal sway bar kit (36″ trim-to-fit)
#70004 tab
Dear Welder Series…
Working on a 31′ Buick and looking for a rear sway bar kit. Rear end is a 71 Corvette using complete Vette sub-frame clip. Frame rails are 44″ wide. Any chance of getting a sway bar kit with the bar and tube suitable for this frame width? This is a 122″ wheelbase car that will weigh at least 4000#. Will the 3/4″ dia. bar be suitable? What is the length of the arms?
Dear Bill…
Bill, we make sway bars 36″ and 46″ long. If you plan to run the bar through the rails, 46″ will be slightly too short. But even at 46″, there could be tire interference if the arm is outside the rail. Most builders run the arms inside the frame rails; i.e. 38″ or less in the case of your Buick. The bar might mount ahead of the differential with the arms pointing to the rear and linked to the bearing carrier or axle trailing arm. ??
The 3/4″ bar has been successful in a wide range of street rod applications. Since ride and handling are somewhat subjective, I can only say the obvious, that the bar will improve the handling compared to no bar and the cornering won’t be as flat as with a 1″ bar, but the ride will be better.
The arms are 8″ center-to-center.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hello,
I have a 1973 dodge D100 pick up that I’ve been building for a road and strip truck. I was wondering which kit i need to take this project to the next level. I have a built 318 with a MP235 5speed transmission. The rear end is an 8.75 locker with 355 gears. This truck runs great now, but the rear end gets a lot of hop and the body roll is terrible! I didn’t want to tie up your phone line with a lot of questions rite now. I am planning to tear into this after Christmas and plan to order rear 4 link in a couple of days. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated!
Thank You,
Kevin
Dear Kevin…
Kevin, the parallel and the triangulated 4-link are good street systems, but not good drag strip suspensions. They don’t provide any leverage to transfer weight to the rear tires. They probably would eliminate the wheel hop, though. Our Pro/Street rear 4-link would let you run the bars parallel for the street and adjust them to give more traction at the drag strip. The bars are shorter than the parallel kit, so the ride won’t be as good. Some builders use our urethane bushings on the street and switch to spherical rod ends (“Heims”) for the track. The spherical rod ends are narrower than the urethane bushed ends, so you will need spacers to make up the difference.
Our rear sway bar kit would help with the body roll issue.
Thanks for considering Welder Series’ parts.
Paul Horton
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