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Don has been sending progress pictures of his Healey build for a while now… I hope he still has $50 of Welder Series parts to buy, because he’s the winner of this months photo sharing draw! Don used a sway bar on the front and rear, frame curves, and various bits and pieces on this home built chassis. Check out the customized sway bar arms!          Congrats, Lou! Thanks for sending the pictures of your sway bar install. There is $50 on your account at Welder Series.     Remember, the contest is completely random- I enter the number of applicants at www.random.org and hit “generate”. The entrants who didn’t win this month are automatically entered in the draw next month too! http://www.welderseries.com/blog/photo-sharing/ If you have Welder Series parts on your project, all it takes is a quick picture and you’ll have the chance to win a $50 credit on your account here, just like Lou. While I was at Tucci Hot Rods last week, I installed a Welder Series universal sway bar on the giveaway car they’re building for the NSRA this year. It was a good exercise- installing something you sell Dave wanted the sway bar arms mounted facing forward, between the coilovers. Instead of using two #227005 mounts, we used six #70004 tabs on two different centerlines to mount the outer tube. Here are some install pictures…  Here’s the #WS22700 sway bar kit sitting at Tucci’s.   After determining where the arms should end up on the axle, the outer tube was trimmed to length.  After the outer tube is trimmed, the sway bar can be cut to length as well. It will need to be about 2-1/8″ longer than the outer tube. Or you can line it up on the floor and mark it :)  Since the arms were mounting narrower than the coilovers, we used six tabs to mount the outer tube.  These tabs were mounted in pairs, three to the outer tube and three to the rear crossmember.  If the tabs were all mounted in the same orientation, the tube could pivot on the mounting bolts. Offsetting one set of mounting tabs keeps the tube from pivoting.  The end of the sway bar that was trimmed gets pinned (and) welded to the smooth bore coupler. I welded it on the end so there’s no interference with the urethane bushing on the other side.  Now the axle tab position can be determined by assembling the arms/heims/tabs and bringing them to the axle.  For consistency’s sake, make sure both the heims are on either the inner or outer side of the sway bar arms.  Also make sure your frame is at ride height when you’re installing the sway bar…  The Welder Series sway bar is easy to install or retrofit to an existing frame. Thanks for letting me borrow your camera, Dave! Dear Welder Series… Dear Mike… I hope this helps. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts. Paul Horton
John St Germain sent some pictures of his Welder Series universal sway bar install accompanied by this note: Just a short note to say how happy I am with the rear sway bar kit I ordered from you the other day. I got it the next day and we installed today with pictures of the install. It is a simple easy to install system and we had no problems installing it with a little nip and welded it all up. It couldn’t get any simpler. What I thought was going to be a nightmare turned out to be a dream. We did it all in an afternoon. I will be ordering one for my roadster next. Thanks again for the quality we seldom see with other manufacturers. John St Germain http://www.timebombs.ca/timebombs/index.html We ended up using the air bag bracket for the lower heim connection and it looks like it will be perfect.     Dear Welder Series…
Believe that the simplest solution would be to install rear sway bar system in front of the rear axle, through the frame. With a sincere thanks, Dear Lou… The 36″ sway bar will be too short to be mounted through the 34″ wide frame. The sway bar housing tube is 33-13/16″ long. The WS22740 will work. Will the bar interfere with rear axle suspension links? You might be able to mount the sway bar from the lower coil-over bolts. Spacers behind the coil-over would be necessary to move the sway bar housing tube back and clear of the coil-over body. The sway bar brackets would be mounted so the tube is higher than the lower coil-over bolts. If the brackets hang down, the tube gets too low and probably would be lower than scrub line. Links would attach the arms to the frame rails. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts. Paul Horton Dear Welder Series… Rear axle housing is hung by leaf springs, so I am rather confused by your suggestion below to attach to coil-over bolts. Could you clarify if you mean shock bolts? With a sincere thanks, Dear Welder Series… Believe that the sketch, in a simplified form, is what you are suggesting.
Please verify, and if you know of a bracket that would attach to the 5/8 shock bolt, could you please let me know? With a sincere thanks, Dear Lou… If you want to mount the bar between the rails, you could add a piece of square tube and hang the sway bar and the exhaust from it. Your sketch is how I saw it, except that I imagined coil-overs instead of standard shocks. The shock mount studs or the (10 ga?) brackets (at the hole where the studs go through) might not be strong enough. I still like mounting the bar ahead of the axle. Paul Dear Welder Series… Will go with the ahead of the axle mounting. Sincerely, I received these pictures from JH Restorations as submissions to our monthly photo draw, and as I looked at the rest of the pictures in his Facebook album, I thought they would be good to use on our site too. The captions are taken right from their Facebook album.  So the body is off to paint so mow we have to finish up the frame. Here we are going to be replacing the rear stamped steel cross member with a 1″5/8 bar. This will not only clean up the look but it will give us a place to mount our sway bar.  Once we have determined where we want the bar we used a hole saw and cut out both sides of the boxed frame and slid the bar inside. This will five the frame plenty of strength when it is all welded up.  Next we had to cut the Welder Series sway bar by about an inch. The Tube was already cut off and Jordan used it as a gauge to cut the correct length off of the sway bar.  Here the bar is mocked up in the frame.  Now it is time to weld the arm to the end of the bar. This small steel ring Jordan made will ensure that enverything is centered.  Here you can see where the bar will be welded to the coupler ends on the sway bar.  Here is the final assembly before everything gets paint and powder coat.  Here is the Sway bar. The smaller Spring steel bar rides inside or the larger tube, and is issolated by poly bushing at either end. We also used Welder Series alternate swaybar mounting method.  Here is a close look at the sway bar disassembled. For more information on the set up visit www.Welderseries.com Paul and DW have always been great to deal with.  Here you can seen the black tube at the top. That is housing the Fords new sway bar. Parts: |
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