1-888-648-2150
Contact Us
Order a free catalog.
Sign up to our newsletter. Many of the parts in the "handy parts" section are available for 10% off when you buy ten of the same part. The discount will show up in your cart.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II for ’65 Mustang, rack mounts

Dear Welder Series…
I saw your welderseries video on “www.weldingtipsandtricks.com” and found your website. Real quality work.
I specifically wanted to know if you have crossmember kits for 65 Mustang cars? If not, are any of your kits adaptable or have any of your customers used your parts for a 65 66 mustang?
Thanks
Jay

Dear Jay…
Thanks for the compliments, Jay.

Our Mustang II kits are adaptable to your Mustang although frame work has to be done from the firewall forward.

I hope we can help with your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I recently bought a MII front cross member from you and was wondering, where my rack and pinion hooks up there are two tabs, and I noticed on some cross members there are two holes all the way thru the cross member,which is how the used rack I bought was bolted up,do I just use shorter bolts, or is there a difference in racks ? such as different years bolt up different.
One more question, if I buy your Granada front brake mounts and use Granada rotors do I need Granada wheel bearings or M II bearings, or are they the same.
Thanks
Vern

Dear Vern…
Thanks for asking, Vern

The two tabs rotate the rack so the input shaft angles 20 degrees lower. This helps the steering linkage clear many motor mounts. Use 4″ long bolts as described on page 5 of our catalog in the lower right corner. Info regarding power racks is also on page 5.
Bearings for the Granada and MII rotors are the same. This info is in the installation pages that come with the brake kit.

Thanks for your order. I hope we can help with other parts for your projects.

Paul Horton

August 20th, 2009 | Tags: , , , , , , | Category: dear welder series, Mustang II Application Questions, Tech | 2 comments

Tech Sharing – Intro

Welder Series’ parts are being used in lots of different ways. If you have digital pictures of how you used our parts, please email them to us. We will put a credit on your account (against future purchases – the credit has no redeemable cash value) of $5.00 for each picture that we use on our website and/or in our catalog. (Note that we might not use all pictures sent.) Please send pictures in .jpg format. Sending the picture gives us the right to use it.

In your cover email, tell us if we can use your name in the Tech Sharing text around your picture(s). We won’t give out your email address or any other personal info.

Tech Sharing is meant to inspire your imagination. Exact measurements will seldom be given because we build hot rods, not production line cars. Tech Sharing is not to be taken as an endorsement of the application. You should decide that for yourself.

We hope you enjoy seeing what others have done and that you will take advantage of this offer.

Paul Horton
President

June 4th, 2009 | Tags: , , , , , | Category: Tech | Leave a comment

’32 Update: reassembly (article 36)

I know, this is a bit out of place.  I’m going to start copying the build articles from our website (www.welderseries.com) to the blog so they’re all in one place.

Reassembly

Seems like it’s been a while… sometimes reality is right. We’ve been really cooking at Welder Series which has lent less time to the ’32 as we would like. But being busy is a very good problem! Now that the frame is black, it’s time to start bolting stuff back on. I’m really enjoying looking at the flat black/aluminum/powder coat black contrast. I hope to be able to update this more regularly now that things are moving on the car again.

Another big treat is having Cam back to help with final assembly. He’s helping out over at Lowdown Hotrods and comes by when he’s done there for the day.


Cam attaches the fuel lines to the rail. Cam is so good, he can thread
a bolt in upside-down.


Here’s the brake pedal return spring/brake light switch activator I made.


I know, a mallet and drift in a final assembly picture isn’t a good sign. No paint was harmed in the setup of this photograph.


While putting the aluminum brake line clamps on the tie rod, I discovered that the end mill I used to create the larger hole had shrunk by the time I drilled the third bracket. Two slipped on nicely, but the third wouldn’t cooperate. Here’s how I enlarged the hole just a tiny bit using a rat tail file.


Using a Sharpie, I drew two lines on the inside of the hole.


I gently persuaded the lines to disappear with the file. Having two lines meant that it was more likely that I could keep the file perpendicular to the hole. Working on a black surface was nice because I could see the files as they came off.


I’d say it worked very well! Three or four rounds were necessary because each time you’re just filing enough to remove the marker line, but you know that you’re keeping the hole round.

June 2nd, 2009 | Tags: , , , , , , | Category: 32 Build, Body, Chassis | Leave a comment

’32 Update: Body Being Bolted (article 44)


Remember these little guys?  In case you missed the post, check it out.


I enlarged the holes in the floor to 7/8″…


…then machined these tubes or “slugs” to drop in the holes.  The purpose of the slugs is to prevent the head of the bolt from crushing the top layer of fiberglass as the bolt is tightened.  I machined them so that they sit on top of the bottom layer of the floor and just under the top layer, so that when the bolt is tightened it will compress the floor just a bit before bottoming out on the slug.


Here is the finished product – we were wondering whether to paint them, but I think they look pretty sharp the way they are.  They are only about 1/8″ off the floor, so they shouldn’t catch feet.

What do you think?

June 1st, 2009 | Tags: , , , , , | Category: 32 Build, Body | Leave a comment

’32 Update: headlight wiring/mounting (article 43)

A/C line clamp/headlight wire conduit/transmission cooler lines All-In-One

Well, it’s finally done!  I’m quite proud of this little clamp that does so much more than clamp.  A picture is worth a thousand words.  Some people get paid by the word, right?  Here are some pictures…


These hoses are running up the passenger side frame rail, into the body.


I think you’ll be able to tell what’s going on here… this is looking along the passenger frame rail towards the back of the car.  The fittings in the bottom right corner of the picture connect braided lines to the transmission.  The Alfred Hitchcock looking thing is just a way to keep the reduced diameter air conditioning lines tidy and secure.  There are three of these double clamps along the length of the hard lines.  The top hard line is a conduit for the headlight wires, which I wrapped in hockey tape to simulate the texture of the a/c hose.  Click here for an earlier article on this clamp.


This is the front end of the top hard line.  The bottom two lines curve in the bottom of the picture and connect to the radiator.


Here is a view of the passenger side of the radiator.  I attached a junction block to both sides of the radiator for easy wire detachment if it’s ever necessary.  The large weatherpak plug is for the electric fan, should it ever need to be removed.  The other single plug goes over to the driver side turn signal, just because I didn’t have room on the junction block.  The wires coming out of the 3/8″ hard line from the previous pictures are wrapped in heat shrink because they are visible outside the rad shell and I wanted them to blend in a bit.  The four wires pointing to the right are the headlight wires, and you’ll see what I did with them in the next few pictures.


First I wrapped them in hockey tape.  Not really necessary, but it will keep the group of wires parallel as I’m pulling them through the stainless tube…


…like this.  This picture also shows a pinched frame rail.  Notice how there is no gap between the rad shell and the frame rail?  That’s done by narrowing the front frame rails by 3/4″ per side waaaaay back at the beginning.  Here is an article on the fabrication of the headlight conduits.  I used the tire to make the big sweeping radius in the tube.


These are from the Parr Automotive headlight conduit kit.  I drilled the tapered end out to 3/8″ so the hard line would slip in, then I machined a small step so it would sit into the hole in the back of the headlight.


Slide it over the wires and onto the hard line.


And then attach it to the headlight!  I had to remove the ’32 Ford wire bundle (sorry, I can’t even remember what it used to look like!) but the hole that was left was a great size for this little Parr piece.


I used another weatherpak plug so I’ll be able to take the headlight off if necessary.


Here’s the view from the back of the passenger side headlight.


I haven’t centered or aimed them yet, but I think they look pretty good!

May 20th, 2009 | Tags: , , , , , | Category: 32 Build, Lighting | Leave a comment

’32 update… nice heads (article 37)

As the car goes back together, we’re finding little things that we’ve wanted to get done which have made their way to the bottom of the proverbial pile.  We had talked a long time ago about making some sleeves so we could put 3/8″ button head bolts in the spreader bar holes instead of the 1/2″ bolts that came with the spreader bar.  The thought was brought up again during reassembly, and instead of trying to machine some spacer/ washers so the 3/8″ bolt wouldn’t be sloppy in the 1/2″ hole, I made a pilgrimage to the lathe and removed some metal.  Here’s the result – a smaller, thinner head.  This is a before/after shot, with the before bolt in hole on the right.

spreader bar bolt comparison

spreader bar bolt comparison #2

March 20th, 2009 | Tags: , , , , , | Category: 32 Build | 3 comments