Welder Series Inc.

Dear Welder Series… Pro Street Model A Question

Dear Welder Series…
Hey, I’m looking at your 4 link pro street kit, and would like as well a kit for coil overs and panhard bar, for a 31 Ford with 9 inch rear, will be using the stock rear cross member, thanks for your help.
Jim

Dear Jim…
Jim, the upper bars on the pro/street kit are going to be in the way of the Panhard kit if the Panhard is mounted on the front of the 9″ Ford. The coil-overs will probably interfere if the Panhard is on the rear side. We used to use a diagonal bar from the driver’s side frame bracket to the passenger side axle bracket. These have to be custom made once the 4-link has been installed.

We have a coil-over crossmember, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-crossmember-kit/ , and a coil-over mounting bolt kit, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/bolt-kit-for-rear-coil-overs/ .

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Model A Brake Pedal?

Dear Welder Series…

Model A master cylinder bracket

Paul, which of your brake pedal kits would you recommend for application onto a basically stock, (boxed) ’30 Model A Frame? I am not planning on installing power brakes, so I just need something for a standard setup. If you would kindly forward me a part number,..I will get down to your shop in the very early New Year. I have received the Cat. that you forwarded me,…Thank You

regards
Wayne

Dear Wayne…
Wayne, here’s a link to the Model ‘A’ manual pedal & bracket kit. https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/brake-pedal-master-cylinder-bracket-model-a/.

If you want to order it now (or soon), we can tag one for you so it will be here when you want it. Please let us know if you want to weld it yourself (WS13704) or have us weld it (13704).

Paul

Dear Welder Series… Help with rear suspension please

Dear Welder Series…
Please recommend one of your kits to replace the existing crappy, poor handling, death trap rear suspension set up I currently have on my ’30 Ford roadster. I would like to keep the buggy spring set up if possible. If not, would your 4 -link rear triangulated universal kit fit my needs? maybe the 4- link kit Modal A with rectangular frame rails be better?
David

Dear David…
This is a great looking roadster. In trying to get a good ride, there are a number of things working against you.

Heavy spring. My guess is that the back end of the car doesn’t have much suspension. You could try removing some leaves from the middle of the spring pack to see if that gives a softer ride.

No shocks. This is probably because with the size of the spring, the suspension is pretty solid and so shocks would only be going along for the ride.

Short bars will produce a choppy ride. The layout is interesting and I don’t have a problem with the 3 bar system. The nature of the car means the bars have to be short and this causes a choppy ride.

The upper bar clevis likely doesn’t have a bearing. If the bolt is tight, the clevis will pinch the mounting plate and won’t want to let the suspension work. If the bolt is not tight, the wear will be on the bolt, the mounting bracket, or both. Clevises are not designed to do the same type of job done by a spherical rod end (Heim). A rod end would be the thing to use at the front of the upper bar.

I don’t see how the frame is stabilized left-to-right, except by the spring shackles. A transverse spring will let the frame move left to right as the shackles rock. This will give a weird, ill-handling feel. A Panhard bar will correct this problem. https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-universal-rear/

Our rear 4-link kits will give a much better ride but I don’t see how there is room for one. The frame brackets would have to be changed so there would be enough ground clearance.

My suggestion is to see if you can make changes to some of the areas noted above. The car seems to have some clever workmanship and it might only require some tweaking to improve the ride.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Getting the brake pedal really close to the frame rail…

I was browsing Grant Schwartz’s website (www.schwartzwelding.com) today and stumbled on this 1947 Mercury gallery. Grant is doing some neat frame work here, but what I zeroed in on was the way he mounted the brake pedal bracket. He used a Welder Series #WS25800 kit, and instead of bolting the pedal bracket to the frame using the tabs in the kit, he shortened the lower plate and set the upper plate on top of the frame rail. This is very similar to the way Lowdown Hotrods did the remote pedal kit in a Model A frame they built (pictures are on the WS25800 product page of our web store). Both these methods will get the brake pedal very close to the inside of the frame rail.

You can also see our #00206 body mount plates Grant used.

Dear Welder Series… Model A triangulated four link

Dear Welder Series…
I would like to know if you have plans in the future to supply triangulated four bar rear kits for model A’s and also would like to see a kit to adapt the Uni-steer type single cross steer rack to the Model A frame without using a vega bracket in addition to the bracket the rack comes with? Thanks for your time, Jon.

Dear Jon…
Thanks for gving me these two things to think about, Jon.

Dealing with the Unisteer rack first, I have work to do studying the “blank” end of the rack’s position in a right turn relative to the lower 4-bar. This won’t happen for a few months at least.

The Welder Series’ WS218500 triangulated kit (https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/) could be used in a Model ‘A’ with these changes:
Delete:
222016D Frame bracket plate
222016P Frame bracket plate
218502 Frame bracket
Replace with:
12501 (4 pcs) Frame bracket (https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/frame-bracket-12501/) Mount the frame end of the lower bar under the frame rail and in line with the frame. The urethane bushing would be between the plates. This bracket will put the lower bar very close to the correct position. I’d box the plates for extra strength.

Change the adjuster studs:
Use 2 (instead of 4) 100810 straight studs.
Add 2 100815 5 degree adjuster studs. These will go on the lower bar at the axle end.

The reconfigured kit would cost $300.00. I am giving it part number WS218528.

A Model ‘A’ frame is quite narrow and you might feel the upper bars don’t have enough triangulation. Consider running the upper bars wide at the rear axle and to the middle of a crossmember for the front mounts.

I hope this helps.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Ford transmission mount?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi: Paul
What is there available for Ford trans mounts? Is there one similar to the Chevy with rectangle cross tube and drop arms? Application is for a 1931 Model A.

Dear Don…
Hello, Don!

We use the 2115 mount with the C4 adapter and our #2268 GM insulator ($17.00).

https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/transmission-mount-kit/

https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/transmission-mount-adapter-plate/

This is the way we put Fords in our Model “A” frames when we were building them.

I hope this helps.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… front wishbone Q’s

Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1930 Model A on boxed ’30 frame. I want to use your flat crossmember in order to use a 1936 wishbone with the spring forward of the axle.

I want to know if I can place your flat crossmember in front of the stock cross member in order that I may keep the original design, i.e. radiator and fenders etc…??

Has anyone done this before??

I want the car as low as possible and the use of the intact ’36 wishbone. I intend on using cross rack steering and need the clearance as well.

Thanks,
Mike

Dear Mike…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.

Our flat front crossmember is designed for a 1-3/4″ wide spring, like the 1928-34 Ford. The ’36 Ford used a 2″ wide front spring, so it will not fit in our crossmember. The ’36 spring is longer than the Model ‘A’ spring, so it can’t be adapted to the ’36 stock wishbone, either.

The ’36 axle will be a little wide to let you get the front end low. (The tires will be out at the edge of the fenders.) You might want to mock up your parts to see how it looks before buying any parts. The standard way to get a Model ‘A’ low is to use a 46″ dropped axle with a reversed eye spring with a low arch.

I hope this helps.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul…….I already have the 31″ 1 3/4 reverse eye spring with a 6″ arc, now I need the 46″ axle. I wanted to use the 1936 wishbone unsplit but I guess I will have to split it after all.

Thanks again,
Mike

Dear Mike…
Mike, you might be able to use the wishbone unsplit and just cut off the spring perch extensions. The spring would mount above the axle.

Paul

Dear Welder Series…
YES, that’s what I intend on doing I just have to find the widest perch possible on the “I” beam. The wishbone is 39.5″ apart and the “I” beam I have is 36″ and I have a feeling that the 46″ axle will also have around 36″ between bosses. Maybe I can bend the wishbone to match the bosses when I get the 46″ axle.
Worse scenario is splitting the wishbone…………..

Since I have you online, do you guys sell “X” crossmember for the model A frame? I need something for my 4L60 transmission to bolt onto. I’m running a 283 cu. in. motor as well and will also need the motor mounts to weld to the frame and attach to the motor, side mounts.

I have a 1930 model A frame that is completely stepped up and boxed. I have a center cross member but I would like to reinforce the frame a little more and have the setup to bolt on the brake pedal, etc..

Thanks again,
Mike

Dear Mike…
Mike, most 46″ axle perch centers are about 34-1/2″. You should be able to bring the wishbone in to match the 46″ axle perches. Make sure the ball stays in the center.

We don’t have a Model ‘A’ x-member. Check Dagel’s http://www.dagelsstreetrods.com/super_x_crossmember.htm. Welder Series does have Chev motor mounts. https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/category/motor-mount-kits/chevrolet/ Click on the link for more details.

Our Model ‘A’ manual brake pedal is at https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/brake-pedal-master-cylinder-bracket-model-a/.

I hope we can help with your project.

Paul Horton

Schwartz Model A Frame

Grant Schwartz of Schwartz Inc. (check out his shop profile on our Shop Profile page) built a killer Model A frame using a bunch of Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… two Model ‘A’ pedal questions

Dear Welder Series…
I am building a Model A style frame and I am going to use manual brakes on it. Which master cylinder bracket kit and pedal should I use?

Ryan

Dear Ryan…
If you are using an automatic transmission, the WS13704 kit was designed for the Model ‘A’.

It is available ready-to-weld or welded.

Is this the frame that you got the frame curves for?

Thanks for looking at Welder Series, Ryan.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Great products, great videos and product info on YouTube.

Can you recommend which master mounting bracket and pedal to use for a
model A, and is there one available that has both the brake and clutch
pedals?

Thanks Alan

Dear Alan…
Thanks for looking at our parts, Alan. Check out 20281. Any clutch and brake is very crowded in a Model ‘A’. We can swap the offset brake pedal for one with no offset. Then you can bend both pedals symmetrically to go around the steering column.

I hope we can help you with your project.

Paul Horton

Welder Series Inc.

Online Store

Dear Welder Series… Pro Street Model A Question

Dear Welder Series… Model A Brake Pedal?

Dear Welder Series… Help with rear suspension please

Getting the brake pedal really close to the frame rail…

Dear Welder Series… Model A triangulated four link

Dear Welder Series… Ford transmission mount?

Dear Welder Series… front wishbone Q’s

Schwartz Model A Frame

Dear Welder Series… two Model ‘A’ pedal questions

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