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Dear Welder Series… Hairpin Frame Mount options?

Dear Welder Series:
Hi Paul. Do you have any suggestions for frame brackets for my hair pins? Model A frame is boxed.
Thanks: Ward

Which frame brackets should I use?

Dear Ward:
If you are using a tie rod end, we have this through-the-frame mount: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/through-frame-hairpin-mount-kit/ .

If you are using a urethane bushing in an adjuster, here are 2 suggestions:
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/frame-bracket-formed-3/ with a spacer, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/tube-urethane-bushing-inner-sleeve/ , to keep the sides from collapsing when the bolt is tightened.
or,
A similar bracket, not pictured, but used in our ’32 Ford front 4-link kits.  It’s available so the hole would be 4″ down from the frame.

Paul

New Product: Through-frame tie rod end mount

Eliminating the large hole on the inside of the frame rail was the main goal when we set out to design a new style of through-frame tie rod end mount. Now you can have the traditional looks of a tie rod end on your hairpins or split wishbones with a smooth inside frame rail. Our unique double-taper design draws the tie rod into a weld-in frame bung using a 1/2″ button head bolt.

Please check out the kit on our web store. It’s only $58. http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/through-frame-hairpin-mount-kit/

 

Through-Frame Hairpin Mount Kit

From the outside of the frame rail, the look is traditional, but without the bracket below the frame. On the inside, only a button head shows.

$58.00

HAIRPIN MOUNT KIT to attach an early Ford tie rod end on a split radius rod or hairpin through a 2″ wide boxed frame. From the outside, the look is traditional, but without the bracket below the frame. The unique taper lock keeps the inside of the boxing plate clean. Only a button head shows – no cotter pin to snag the cleaning rag or cut your knuckles! Kit includes parts for both sides: 2 frame bungs, 2 tapered adapters, 2 threaded couplers, 2 split pins, 2 internal tooth lock washers and 2 button head bolts. Early Ford tie rod ends are NOT included. #229000

Instructions:
Click here to view the instruction sheet for this item

Dear Welder Series… hairpins?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi I am trying to put together a list of items to purchase from you good people , and I saw on one of your Welder Series videos you were making a set of hair pins. Do you sell them as a pkg because I cannot find them on your web site or your catalog?
Let me know thanks Grant

Dear Grant…
Sorry for the misunderstanding.  The hairpins were made by Grant Schwartz, a friend and builder who uses a lot of Welder Series parts. We feature him in several videos. We don’t offer hairpins. You can reach Grant at http://www.schwartzwelding.com/.

Also sorry to take so long getting back to you.  I’ve been sick all week.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… front wishbone Q’s

Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1930 Model A on boxed ’30 frame. I want to use your flat crossmember in order to use a 1936 wishbone with the spring forward of the axle.

I want to know if I can place your flat crossmember in front of the stock cross member in order that I may keep the original design, i.e. radiator and fenders etc…??

Has anyone done this before??

I want the car as low as possible and the use of the intact ’36 wishbone. I intend on using cross rack steering and need the clearance as well.

Thanks,
Mike

Dear Mike…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.

Our flat front crossmember is designed for a 1-3/4″ wide spring, like the 1928-34 Ford.  The ’36 Ford used a 2″ wide front spring, so it will not fit in our crossmember.  The ’36 spring is longer than the Model ‘A’ spring, so it can’t be adapted to the ’36 stock wishbone, either.

The ’36 axle will be a little wide to let you get the front end low.  (The tires will be out at the edge of the fenders.)  You might want to mock up your parts to see how it looks before buying any parts.  The standard way to get a Model ‘A’ low is to use a 46″ dropped axle with a reversed eye spring with a low arch.

I hope this helps.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks Paul…….I already have the 31″ 1 3/4 reverse eye spring with a 6″ arc, now I need the 46″ axle.  I wanted to use the 1936 wishbone unsplit but I guess I will have to split it after all.

Thanks again,
Mike

Dear Mike…
Mike, you might be able to use the wishbone unsplit and just cut off the spring perch extensions.  The spring would mount above the axle.

Paul

Dear Welder Series…
YES, that’s what I intend on doing I just have to find the widest perch possible on the “I” beam.  The wishbone is 39.5″ apart and the “I” beam I have is 36″ and I have a feeling that the 46″ axle will also have around 36″ between bosses.  Maybe I can bend the wishbone to match the bosses when I get the 46″ axle.
Worse scenario is splitting the wishbone…………..

Since I have you online, do you guys sell “X” crossmember for the model A frame?  I need something for my 4L60 transmission to bolt onto.  I’m running a 283 cu. in. motor as well and will also need the motor mounts to weld to the frame and attach to the motor, side mounts.

I have a 1930 model A frame that is completely stepped up and boxed.  I have a center cross member but I would like to reinforce the frame a little more and have the setup to bolt on the brake pedal, etc..

Thanks again,
Mike

Dear Mike…
Mike, most 46″ axle perch centers are about 34-1/2″.  You should be able to bring the wishbone in to match the 46″ axle perches.  Make sure the ball stays in the center.

We don’t have a Model ‘A’ x-member.  Check Dagel’s http://www.dagelsstreetrods.com/super_x_crossmember.htm.  Welder Series does have Chev motor mounts.  https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/category/motor-mount-kits/chevrolet/ Click on the link for more details.

Our Model ‘A’ manual brake pedal is at https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/brake-pedal-master-cylinder-bracket-model-a/.

I hope we can help with your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series... hairpin kit?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I was wondering if you sell a kit to make my own hair pin bars. I see that you sell the bat wing kit. I’m building a 1931 sedan without fenders and I always try to build as much as I can by myself. If you don’t sell a kit would you know who does or where I could get some dimensions to build my own.

Thanks Tom

Dear Tom…
Tom, we don’t make a hairpin kit, but you can see this blog post and see how Grant Schwartz of Schwartz, Inc, did his.  His website is www.schwartzwelding.com.  As you can see, I have cc’d Grant.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.

Paul Horton