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Michael sent these pictures of his 1936 Ford frame as he installed a set of our 1935-40 Ford boxing plates (which are still currently on sale!).
He wrote a little step-by-step commentary too, so I’ll just hand over the keyboard:
Hi, Here’s pictures of your boxing plates being installed on my ‘37 ford frame.
Photo 1 is the bare frame on my little frame rotisserie. I left the back half of the factory X-member in place while I did the front plates. Also note my temporary x-bracing.
Photo 2 shows the plate next to my clean frame. Notice I have used weld nuts inside the frame, since once the frame is boxed there will be no access. This includes body mount points, inner fenders, and running boards. I did a few extra too in front, anticipating a few bolt-on items in the engine bay.
Photo 3 shows the tool I made to adjust the frame and remove the dings and dents of the last 70 years. It took some patience but I got the plates to fit nicely.
Photo 4. I welded nuts on the inside face of the boxing plates too, anticipating brake and fuel line locations to the back of the car.
Photo 5. This is a section of a rear plate which is still just tacked in place.
Photo 6. All plates in and welds ground smooth. Ready for rear suspension…..
Michael will be added to our February draw for a $50 credit on his account. You can enter the draw by sending pictures of Welder Series parts in action to pictures@welderseries.com.
We have had quite a few questions about installing our Mustang II kit in cars that don’t lend themselves well to a conversion. Sometimes “modifying the frame rails” is necessary. What exactly do we mean by that?
I thought I’d put together some pictures that show a few frames that have been modified to accept a Mustang II crossmember. If you have any questions about your frame or any of our parts, please email or call toll-free: 1-888-648-2150.
 This Oldsmobile frame has been bottlenecked to accept our Mustang II crossmember.  The '57 Oldsmobile has received a similar treatment, but the builder used larger diameter tubing straight forward from the firewall.  You can see the spring clearance notch in the frame rail in this picture of the finished '57 Olds.  Here is a Welder Series Mustang II in a 1978 Volvo. Extra material was 'wrapped' around the existing front rails of the unibody car.  A '57 Ford frame has the springs mounted inside the frame rails.  The '57 has been cleaned up and 2x4 tubing was used to mount our MII. If you’ve put our Mustang II kit in something “weird”, please send us some pictures!
Grant Schwartz of Schwartz Inc. (check out his shop profile on our Shop Profile page) built a killer Model A frame using a bunch of Welder Series parts.
Click to watch the video.
#WS22700
Terry just sent us an email with some pictures of how he used our frame curves. I thought it was most worthy of being shared! Here’s a bit of the email:
Put the curves together, cut the top part of the frame out and then just slid the curves into the frame. Then after welding I just cut the sides and bottom of the frame away and finished welding the curves and frame together with a gusset here and there. This gave me a good 4 inches more travel for my air ride, so far so good everything is working as planned.
This is being done on a 48 Chevy fleetline aero sedan.
Thanks again, Terry
Thank you, Terry!
(From the archives)
Well, the body is off and it’s time to start welding up brackets and tabs that were just tacked in place this whole time. The plan is to get the frame powder coated semi gloss black, and since it’s not healthy to weld over powder coat, I’m going to try to get all the brackets mounted before it’s sent out.
It’s a good idea to take a bunch of pictures of everything assembled before you tear it down, so you can see how it all went together.
Remember that e-brake bracket I made a long time ago? I just painted it with Zero Rust flat black paint, and I’m pretty tickled with how it came out. I can’t wait to see it installed! 
Since I didn’t mount the seat belts when the seat was mounted the first time, I had to make up some brackets to hold the retractors and the fixed end of the belts. If you’re like me and you have access to hundreds of different shapes of brackets, you tend to use something that’s already made instead of wasting time cutting out a shape (and trying to get the second one to look something like the first one), drilling holes, bending, etc. If you’re like me but don’t have access to hundreds of different brackets, here’s a solution: Welder Series’ Plate Page . Have a look around. I’m sure you’ll find something that will make your frame build a lot easier. These particular brackets are Model A rad mount tabs .
Friends come in to have a look and wonder how taking stuff off helps put it together. I tell them it’s like marriage. Anyways, I spent some time on something very small, but I’m happy with the result.
On the right, you can see the stock bolts that came with the brake kit. While functional, they didn’t do much to enhance the chrome spindles and steering arms and the polished calipers and caliper mounts. Since the caliper mounting bolts are 3/8″ button heads, I thought I’d see what I could do to match the other bolts.
The black bolt is the original one. It’s a flat head allen, with 1/2-20 threads. The stainless bolt is a 3/8-16 button head, but it’s obviously too small for the hole. I machined threaded spacers to sit tight in the 1/2″ hole in the spindle. The threaded cone mimics the taper on the original bolt, so it centers itself and sits flush with the outside of the caliper mounting plate. There’s not much clearance between the plate and the rotor!
I took this photo before I trimmed the excess off the bolt – it’s flush now.
Here’s how the tranny cooler lines/ air conditioning hose clamp came out. The top tube runs headlight wires from the body to the grille shell. 
For the ends of the stainless tube, I parted a -6 stainless joiner fitting in half, and tig welded them to the tubes. Leaving some hex on the fittings means I don’t have to twist the tube to tighten the fitting.
We had the one side fixed, and now it’s time to match the passenger side. Cam seems to be pretty happy we’re finally mounting the tail pipes! 
The emergency brake lines run right where the hangers would sit straight up. Instead of just moving it off to the side a little bit, we thought it would be better to go all the way. The hanger brackets and flanges are Welder Series parts, by the way. 
I think we’re going to keep the tips just as they are for now… milled perfectly square. We’ll see – maybe they will get some turn-downs later.
Dear Welder Series…
I am building a Model A style frame and I am going to use manual brakes on it. Which master cylinder bracket kit and pedal should I use?
Ryan
Dear Ryan…
If you are using an automatic transmission, the WS13704 kit was designed for the Model ‘A’.
It is available ready-to-weld or welded.
Is this the frame that you got the frame curves for?
Thanks for looking at Welder Series, Ryan.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Great products, great videos and product info on YouTube.
Can you recommend which master mounting bracket and pedal to use for a
model A, and is there one available that has both the brake and clutch
pedals?
Thanks Alan
Dear Alan…
Thanks for looking at our parts, Alan. Check out 20281. Any clutch and brake is very crowded in a Model ‘A’. We can swap the offset brake pedal for one with no offset. Then you can bend both pedals symmetrically to go around the steering column.
I hope we can help you with your project.
Paul Horton
I know, this is a bit out of place. I’m going to start copying the build articles from our website (www.welderseries.com) to the blog so they’re all in one place.
Reassembly
Seems like it’s been a while… sometimes reality is right. We’ve been really cooking at Welder Series which has lent less time to the ’32 as we would like. But being busy is a very good problem! Now that the frame is black, it’s time to start bolting stuff back on. I’m really enjoying looking at the flat black/aluminum/powder coat black contrast. I hope to be able to update this more regularly now that things are moving on the car again.
Another big treat is having Cam back to help with final assembly. He’s helping out over at Lowdown Hotrods and comes by when he’s done there for the day.
Cam attaches the fuel lines to the rail. Cam is so good, he can thread
a bolt in upside-down.
Here’s the brake pedal return spring/brake light switch activator I made.
I know, a mallet and drift in a final assembly picture isn’t a good sign. No paint was harmed in the setup of this photograph.
While putting the aluminum brake line clamps on the tie rod, I discovered that the end mill I used to create the larger hole had shrunk by the time I drilled the third bracket. Two slipped on nicely, but the third wouldn’t cooperate. Here’s how I enlarged the hole just a tiny bit using a rat tail file.
Using a Sharpie, I drew two lines on the inside of the hole.
I gently persuaded the lines to disappear with the file. Having two lines meant that it was more likely that I could keep the file perpendicular to the hole. Working on a black surface was nice because I could see the files as they came off.
I’d say it worked very well! Three or four rounds were necessary because each time you’re just filing enough to remove the marker line, but you know that you’re keeping the hole round.
“Canuck” over on the HAMB sent me this information on a possible candidate for a brake pedal return spring. Here are the original dimensions of the spring (the one in the picture has been trimmed): OD = 1.655″, ID = 1.375″, Length = 3.575″, Wire Dia = .135″, 6 coils, Min length when coils bind = 2.768″, Compression = ~~ 22 lb.s/inch compression. Straight spring, no taper. This came off an ’89 Cadillac Fleetwood.
Thanks for keeping me in mind!
If you didn’t see my pedal return setup, here’s a picture:
Here’s a setup that Lowdown Hotrods made… it looks like they’ve used a tube threaded on to the booster plunger with a jam nut sandwiching an aluminum disc which holds the spring. You can always expect clean work from these guys! Check out their site for a whole bunch of project pictures.
This edition is going to focus on the two hiboy roadsters built by Paul Horton and Lloyd Stewart in the mid 80′s.
Chris Horton ready for a ride in the rumble seat. Looks like he got a bug in the teeth!
Pinched and bobbed frame rails with turn signals in the end, contour cut leaf spring liner… this is just a clean front end!
Hand formed 2×5 rails flow with the contour of the body, and also notice the front bars end at the hood line – the same way we still do our hiboy front four link kit.
Lloyd, Paul, and Dorothy with the ’29… probably at a show in SW Ontario.
The ’29 and ’32 in front of our old shop “up on the hill” in the same town we’re still in – Breslau, Ontario.
Paul and Lloyd, I think just after finishing the ’29. I say that because there’s still a tire sticker on the front tire, and the license plate isn’t “HORTON” yet.
Dorothy Horton driving in to Missouri with family friend Michelle. I bet the sticker is worn off the tire by now…
An unfortunate end for the ’29, but a fortunate (I use that term loosely) outcome for my brother and I. I think I mentioned this story in another post, but it’s worth repeating. We ALWAYS rode in the rumble seat on short trips as well as some longer ones. It was really fun – we could see the road wizzing by and feel the air through our hair. For this particular drive (a local poker run), my brother and I requested to ride with family friends in their ’48 Ford. It’s not too far of a stretch to wonder what you would be reading now if I had been in that rumble seat that day. You can barely see battery cable dangling out of the trunk in this picture; the battery was found way down the road. What you can’t see is the rumble seat lid (the seat back). Thankfully, Paul didn’t get hurt too badly…his leg got a bad bruise where it hit and bent the B&M shifter handle, and my mom only had a few broken ribs. The accident happened after a distracted driver in a late model T-boned the ‘29 on a highway.
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