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Dear Welder Series…
I just got the 4-link kit. Looks great and I can’t wait to install it. Do the bushing in the adjusters need to have zerk fittings installed?
Thanks
-Troy
Dear Troy…
Most (99.9%?) builders do not put grease fittings in the ends. Sometimes the urethane bushings squeak. I have tried several types of lubricant over the years, but now just drive the car.
My suggestion is to just install it as-is.
Good question.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in putting a 4 link triangulated under a ’73 Cougar convertible- ( think Mustang with a 5″ longer leaf spring.) I want to use the front spring eye brackets for the lower bars. All the frame rails, rockers and torque boxes are new. The car is on a Twirler now- (the best investment I ever made). I am a little puzzled about how to do the upper bars. I am leaning toward your large bushing 4 link kit, without using the front lower mounts. We are planning to start on this phase of the project in Jan. I would be grateful for any insight you could give me. Thanx…Bill
Dear Bill…
Bill, we can sub special bars to let you use the front spring eye bracket. The center of the lower bar mounting hole is 2-5/8″ ahead of axle center line. Give us the required center-to-center distance and we will make bars to suit. Standard bars would be credited and special bars invoiced. Special bars cost $7.00/ea more than standard.
The upper bars can be run from the housing out to the frame rails or a crossmember can be installed between the rails and the upper bars can run from the axle tubes, just inside the frame rails, to the crossmember above the drive shaft.
It is more cost effective to buy the whole kit and not use the lower bar frame brackets. The price for most of our kits is the sum of their components, but the rear 4-link kits are much less than the sum. Part kits get invoiced as individual pieces and this would likely cost more if the lower brackets were left out.
I agree with your choice of the large bushing kit. It will be a good one to use in your Cougar.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thanx, Paul…. This is the way we’ll go. I’ll be calling you in the middle of Jan. to place the order. Thank You, and have a Happy Holiday. Bill
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 66 mustang that needs a new rear suspension. I am interested in your 4-link rear upgrade. Can you please tell me what I would need to purchase from you to complete this conversion?
Thanks,
David
Dear David…
David, you might also want to get the coil-over bolt kit. The sway bar would be another good part to use. If you will use the parallel rear 4-link, use a rear Panhard kit.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul, I talked to you about my ’56 Studebaker P. U. and a front end coilover cross member kit with the brake caliper bracket kit, 5 on 4 1/2″ bolt circle. I am also considering welding a triangulated four link kit in the rear of the truck. If you could send the URL ‘S you talked about to make ordering and viewing the products easier that would be great. Thank you for taking the time to help me out, Santo.
Dear Santo…
Thanks for this note, Santo. Here are some url’s for front and rear suspension parts.
Mustang II kit for stock, Mustang II-style springs and shocks or QA1 Mustang II (MII) coil-overs (http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/drag-and-street/shocks-and-struts/stock-mount-shocks-and-struts/mustang-ii-shocks-and-pro-coil-system.html): http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ws14540/ (Note the links as you read down this page.)
Mustang II kit for conventional coil-overs: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/mustang-ii-crossmember-for-coil-springs-copy/ Scroll down this page to see the difference in coil-over style from the above kit.
Brake kit for Granada rotors/GM calipers on MII spindles: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/mustang-ii-brake-kit-for-granada-rotors/
Triangulated rear 4-link kits: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/
Please call if you have any questions.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series,
I have 2 questions on your Pro Street Rear 4 link kit.
What is the sidewall thickness of the link bars (is this the same for all of your 4 links?)
And I cannot locate any instructions on your site…what kind of mounting are the forward link brackets designed for? Bottom, side…sub frame, box?
Thanks,
Dear Dave,
Dave, the (WS)212470 kits have bars made from 1″ x .188 wall seamless tubing. The rear bars that have 5/8-18 threads are 1″ x .219 wall seamless.
The frame brackets are designed to mount to “stumps” coming off of the frame rails.
Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
ph
Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in buying your 4 Link bracketry; does it come with, or can you provide, some instruction of how to locate the frame brackets relative to the axle brackets? This will be used on a street car with a blown Big Block.
I’m thinking that the lower bars should be installed parallel to the ground, or a tad up in the front. Should i do this using the “middle” holes on the bottom of each bracket and give adjustment both up and down? Or, what do you suggest?
Thanks!!!!
Don
Dear Don…
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/
Don, the link above takes you to the triangulated 4-link page. Scrolling down, you will come to some links that give the info you are asking about. The frame end of the lower bar will be 1/2″ higher than the axle end, so you are right. I like to build using your “middle hole” reasoning, too.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 57 Chevy Pickup Truck that I am in the process of redoing. I am skilled at welding and am modifying the factory original frame. I have boxed the frame and added a tubular cross brace/transmission mount.
I would like to convert to IFS front and 4 link in the rear.
From the website I see the 60″ Mustang II (WS21900) is the appropriate size but would like to know if it would be compatible with Shock Waves.
Also which parallel 4 link kit is appropriate for this truck and is it compatible with shock waves?
Thanks
Brian
Dear Brian…
Brian, here is how Grant Schwartz, a friend of ours, put ShockWaves on our coil-over kit…
http://www.schwartzwelding.com/gallery/trucks/05.html
I would use WS222501 for the parallel 4-link and WS2184 for the Panhard. AirRide Technologies aluminum mounts could be used for the ShockWaves or you could make tube spacers, similar to our 23203 but with a longer tube…
Coilover bolt kit
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Paul Horton
Yaril (tylerdurben on the H.A.M.B.) is working on his second truck in this series, and called us for the rear four link, panhard kit, and some air bag brackets. This is another great build – follow along!
Click here to check out the build on the H.A.M.B.
Dear Welder Series…
To whom it may concern,
I am getting ready to build a pre runner style truck out of a 2001 Chevy half ton pickup. Its and extended cab short bed two wheel drive. I was planning on running King coil overs in all four corners. Do you happen to have or would you be able to fab a complete weld or bolt on 4 link kit. I like the triangulated design but the pictures on your sight the rods them selves look to short if you can build something like that can you please put a quote together and email me back and if not maybe you might know who is able to do it thank you very much.
Dear Tyler…
There are some drawings that show where the bars mount at https://www.welderseries.com/instructions/ws21850/ws21850_dwgs.htm . If this length doesn’t work for you, we can supply custom length bars. The frame mounts go in the same place for both our 218500 and 318500 kits.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Paul Horton
FYI
For a product that hasn’t even made it in the paper catalog yet (sheesh), our big bushing four link kits are getting pretty popular! So popular, in fact, that they outsold our standard bushing kits for the past 30 days or so. With 3/4-16 threaded adjusters instead of 5/8-18 and 1-3/4″ wide bushings instead of about 1-3/8″, they’re a bit beefier, but otherwise the same.
Large adjuster:
Standard adjuster:
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