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Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1951 Chevrolet truck 1/2 ton putting a 2002 Chevy S10 4×4 Blazer 8.5 ring gear rear w/disc brakes in. I want to use the 4 link system, which one of yours will work easiest and best?
Thank you!
Dear Don…
Don, the decision regarding a parallel or a triangulated rear 4-link is somewhat philosophical. Here is my explanation:
Both kits do a good job of locating the rear end, holding it in place, and letting the suspension work.
The triangulated kit costs less than the parallel kit because a Panhard bar is not required.
The parallel kit does require a Panhard kit (about $100.00). The parallel kit is easier to adjust for squaring the rear axle to the frame center line, and centering the frame left-to-right.
The Panhard bar does move the frame left-to-right as the frame goes up and down, but if a straight Panhard bar is installed level, this amount is insignificant (about 1/8″ with a 19″ bar) for normal suspension travel.
I hope this helps you decide. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hi there
I’m working on figuring out ride height and road clearance for my 51 Chevy if I use your MII set up and have a few questions, hoping you can assist.
1. For your MII front crossmember, what is the distance from the underside of the chevy frame to the bottom of the crossmember and what should a reasonable /safe clearance below the crossmember to the road be?
2. What is the distance from the spindle centerline to the underside of the crossmember. (assuming 2” drop spindle)
I am trying to determine from this what size wheel/tire size should be.
3. For the rear suspension, triangulated 4 link kit or individual pieces, can you please clarify the dimensions of your bars so I can figure out where they will attach to my frame?.
Your drawing indicates the lower bar should be 27-1/8 from the axle centerline but you list a 27-7/8 bar and then 23-1/8 bar and nothing in between.
Are dimensions nominally center to center on the bushings? Or center of bushing to edge of notch?
4. The upper bar should attach about 15 from the axle centerline according to your drawing so I want to see where that would end up mounting on the axle.
Can you clarify roughly what angle in plan view the upper bars are relative to the axle or roughly what length the upper bars are so I can figure out where they will sit and if that is similar to your drawing showing the bars 2-1/8 above the axle centerline?
Thanks very much for your assistance.!!
Steve
Dear Steve…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project, Steve.
I suggest you choose the tire size that you feel is best for your project, rather than work from ground clearance up. Our crossmember can be notched to accommodate the ride height you want with the tire size you choose.
I’m going to duck the ground clearance question… This depends on the roads you travel as well as possible laws in your area. NSRA has a practical suggestion with their scrub line definition. This is defined at http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms/pub_45/appendix.pdf . Some areas say the line should be drawn from wheel rim to wheel rim and no suspension component should below that line.
With a 2″ dropped spindle, it is 7-1/4″ from spindle c/l to the bottom of our crossmember.
The dimensions on the triangulated rear 4-link installation sheets are correct. The assumption is that you know where the axle centerline is but don’t know where our axle bracket locates the urethane bushing. The bar length is from the center of the urethane bushing tube to the threaded end of the bar. The adjuster is not included in this length. Add 1-3/4″ for the large bushing adjuster. Note that the lower bar for the triangulated kit is the 23-1/8″ bar. (The 27-7/8″ bar is 7/8″ diameter and is used in our universal rear Panhard kit and the hiboy front 4-link kit.)
The frame brackets for the upper bars will likely have to be trimmed to the angle suited to your frame width and rear axle.
Thanks for these questions. I hope this info, and the install sheets online help you.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m after a rear 4 link for my 65 mustang for general road use, no racing, do you have a setup similar to [the other guys] setups & if so prices & cost of shipping to California 90200, USA, unless you good rates to New Zealand, if you can help I’ll phone you.
thanks Rob.
Dear Rob…
Rob, Welder Series has a parallel and a triangulated rear 4-link. Both kits are “universal”, meaning they can be used in a wide range of applications, but they require modifications (mainly bar length) to use in your Mustang.
The kits are at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/ and http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-parallel-universal/ . The parallel kit needs a Panhard bar, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-universal-rear/ .
Freight cost to California would be 10% of the order total with a minimum charge of $15 and a maximum charge of $60.00. All of our prices are in Canadian Dollars. We can ship to New Zealand by Parcel Post and would quote a rate based on what you would like to order.
We are working hard at getting the website picture issues resolved.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Hey, I’m looking at your 4 link pro street kit, and would like as well a kit for coil overs and panhard bar, for a 31 Ford with 9 inch rear, will be using the stock rear cross member, thanks for your help.
Jim
Dear Jim…
Jim, the upper bars on the pro/street kit are going to be in the way of the Panhard kit if the Panhard is mounted on the front of the 9″ Ford. The coil-overs will probably interfere if the Panhard is on the rear side. We used to use a diagonal bar from the driver’s side frame bracket to the passenger side axle bracket. These have to be custom made once the 4-link has been installed.
We have a coil-over crossmember, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-crossmember-kit/ , and a coil-over mounting bolt kit, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/bolt-kit-for-rear-coil-overs/ .
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I received everything as expected thank you. On the four link. Do you foresee any problems with placing both the upper and lower arms outside of the frame with the triangulated links welded to the top side of the housing 3 or so inches from the brake backing plate. I assume the upper and lower links should be parallel when finished?? Thanks again Brian
Dear Brian…
Mounting the bars outside the frame rails will work fine. This is a good idea if the frame rails are narrow. Use the same dimensions that are in the installation sheets regarding bracket height. The triangulated 4-link is more tolerant than a parallel 4-link.
Good question.
Paul Horton
Congrats, Steve! There’s $50 sitting on your account here at Welder Series for your next order. Steve used some brackets to put together a rear four link kit for his ’34 pickup. He did the lower bars first, and was planning to order some more parts for the uppers. This should help out!
I use www.random.org to decide the winner, because computers never make mistakes.
Parts In Pictures:
WS21852, axle bracket kit.
218502, formed frame bracket.
Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in your triangulated 4 bar kit (welded) I would like to install it into my 1951 Studebaker Champion frame. The stock frame is 41 inches on the outside and about 37 inches inside measurement, frame rail to frame rail. I will be using a 1995 S-10 rear end. Do you think I would have any fitment problems?
Dear Writer…
This should be a good swap. The upper bars can be mounted from the rear end out to the frame, as shown in our installation sheets, or the upper bars can be mounted on the axle tubes just inboard of the frame rails and angle forward and towards the frame centerline to a crossmember (that might have to be welded between the frame rails).
I think your frame will get the conventional installation, as shown at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/ . Click on the hyper-link “Installation instructions”.
Thanks for asking about Welder Series parts. I hope you will send digital pictures as you are doing the installation.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
My son and I are interested in upgrading his 1987 Chevy with Mustang II front suspension and 4 bar rear, we like the Welder Series as it gives him the ability to do more of the work, he is a welder also so this should not be a problem, however I do not see that you have a kit, would you be able to build something to work in this application, the truck currently has Bell Tech suspension in it, we are also planning on installing a carbed 5.3 engine and TKO600 5 speed and likely a 9 inch ford diff, so we are starting with a fresh frame.
I can supply dimensional details if required, please advise, Thanks, Dale
Dear Dale…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series Mustang II kits, Dale.
The 1973 – 87 GM trucks have a fairly wide track width of about 66″ stock. Our widest kit track width is 60″, so the tires would be closer to the frame by about 3″ on each side. Check that this is the look that you want.
If you are starting with a fresh stock frame, there will be major work to do where the MII crossmember will mount. If you are building a tube frame, it can be designed to work easily with the MII crossmember.
At the back, be sure your gas tank placement will not interfere with the bracket placement. The brackets weld to the frame from 24″ – 34″ from rear axle c/l. The center of the front of the bar is 28″ ahead of axle c/l.
If you would like other info, please get in touch.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I am looking at your triangulated four bar combination 4-link and lower coil-over mounts but I really want to have the three inch tube axle mount cut strait at 90 degrees from the shock mount so I can mount a flat plate to the top and U bolt it to a 1968 Camaro factory spring perch. Just like the kit from chassis works g bar kits.
Can you flatten the top of your mounts for about the same price as your normal mounts or should I just cut them myself I would like the precision of laser cutting but I can get it done if that’s the best way.
Thanks a lot
Tim
Dear Tim…
I understand what you want, Tim. If you get the standard bracket, you will be
able to decide exactly where it should be cut. Lay out the cut lines and use
a band saw or hack saw and grind or file to the line.
If you give us the distance from the center of the lower bar hole to the cut
line, we could lay it out and band saw it for you. $20 should get both
brackets done.
This is creative thinking and we like to hear about it. Thanks for looking at
Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1940 ford pickup. I’m having a hard time deciding on the rear suspension. I’m between a basic parallel leaf spring set up and a triangular 4 link. When it’s done the truck will be a driver. I’m not intending to haul 2 tons of rocks but I would like to be able to go to the lumber yard on occasion to pick up a few sheets of plywood or a few 2×4’s. Front suspension will be one of your MII coil over kits. Rear end will be a ford 8.8 with traction loc. Can you offer any recommendations to help me with my decision?
Thanks.
Jack
Dear Jack…
Jack, here are some advantages of both systems:
Rear leaf springs
- Bolt-in installation. (You will have to weld spring pads onto your axle.)
- Price.
Coil-overs/triangulated rear 4-link
- Easy to change spring rates to fine tune the ride.
- The cost of new springs.
- Heavier-duty, higher quality shock than the standard ones that come in a standard leaf spring kit.
- Easy to change pinion angle.
- The coil-over has a designed ride height. Upper and lower mounts can be designed so the truck’s ride height will be where you want it with no guessing.
- Ride height is adjustable by using the lower coil-over mounting bracket holes.
- Ride height can be dialed in when different spring rate is used. (The lower spring seat can be adjusted up or down.)
I hope this helps with your decision.
Paul Horton
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