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Dear Welder Series…
Hey, I’m looking at your 4 link pro street kit, and would like as well a kit for coil overs and panhard bar, for a 31 Ford with 9 inch rear, will be using the stock rear cross member, thanks for your help.
Jim
Dear Jim…
Jim, the upper bars on the pro/street kit are going to be in the way of the Panhard kit if the Panhard is mounted on the front of the 9″ Ford. The coil-overs will probably interfere if the Panhard is on the rear side. We used to use a diagonal bar from the driver’s side frame bracket to the passenger side axle bracket. These have to be custom made once the 4-link has been installed.
We have a coil-over crossmember, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-crossmember-kit/ , and a coil-over mounting bolt kit, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/bolt-kit-for-rear-coil-overs/ .
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I received everything as expected thank you. On the four link. Do you foresee any problems with placing both the upper and lower arms outside of the frame with the triangulated links welded to the top side of the housing 3 or so inches from the brake backing plate. I assume the upper and lower links should be parallel when finished?? Thanks again Brian
Dear Brian…
Mounting the bars outside the frame rails will work fine. This is a good idea if the frame rails are narrow. Use the same dimensions that are in the installation sheets regarding bracket height. The triangulated 4-link is more tolerant than a parallel 4-link.
Good question.
Paul Horton
Congrats, Steve! There’s $50 sitting on your account here at Welder Series for your next order. Steve used some brackets to put together a rear four link kit for his ’34 pickup. He did the lower bars first, and was planning to order some more parts for the uppers. This should help out!
I use www.random.org to decide the winner, because computers never make mistakes.
Parts In Pictures:
WS21852, axle bracket kit.
218502, formed frame bracket.
Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in your triangulated 4 bar kit (welded) I would like to install it into my 1951 Studebaker Champion frame. The stock frame is 41 inches on the outside and about 37 inches inside measurement, frame rail to frame rail. I will be using a 1995 S-10 rear end. Do you think I would have any fitment problems?
Dear Writer…
This should be a good swap. The upper bars can be mounted from the rear end out to the frame, as shown in our installation sheets, or the upper bars can be mounted on the axle tubes just inboard of the frame rails and angle forward and towards the frame centerline to a crossmember (that might have to be welded between the frame rails).
I think your frame will get the conventional installation, as shown at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/ . Click on the hyper-link “Installation instructions”.
Thanks for asking about Welder Series parts. I hope you will send digital pictures as you are doing the installation.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
My son and I are interested in upgrading his 1987 Chevy with Mustang II front suspension and 4 bar rear, we like the Welder Series as it gives him the ability to do more of the work, he is a welder also so this should not be a problem, however I do not see that you have a kit, would you be able to build something to work in this application, the truck currently has Bell Tech suspension in it, we are also planning on installing a carbed 5.3 engine and TKO600 5 speed and likely a 9 inch ford diff, so we are starting with a fresh frame.
I can supply dimensional details if required, please advise, Thanks, Dale
Dear Dale…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series Mustang II kits, Dale.
The 1973 – 87 GM trucks have a fairly wide track width of about 66″ stock. Our widest kit track width is 60″, so the tires would be closer to the frame by about 3″ on each side. Check that this is the look that you want.
If you are starting with a fresh stock frame, there will be major work to do where the MII crossmember will mount. If you are building a tube frame, it can be designed to work easily with the MII crossmember.
At the back, be sure your gas tank placement will not interfere with the bracket placement. The brackets weld to the frame from 24″ – 34″ from rear axle c/l. The center of the front of the bar is 28″ ahead of axle c/l.
If you would like other info, please get in touch.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I am looking at your triangulated four bar combination 4-link and lower coil-over mounts but I really want to have the three inch tube axle mount cut strait at 90 degrees from the shock mount so I can mount a flat plate to the top and U bolt it to a 1968 Camaro factory spring perch. Just like the kit from chassis works g bar kits.
Can you flatten the top of your mounts for about the same price as your normal mounts or should I just cut them myself I would like the precision of laser cutting but I can get it done if that’s the best way.
Thanks a lot
Tim
Dear Tim…
I understand what you want, Tim. If you get the standard bracket, you will be
able to decide exactly where it should be cut. Lay out the cut lines and use
a band saw or hack saw and grind or file to the line.
If you give us the distance from the center of the lower bar hole to the cut
line, we could lay it out and band saw it for you. $20 should get both
brackets done.
This is creative thinking and we like to hear about it. Thanks for looking at
Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I’m building a 1940 ford pickup. I’m having a hard time deciding on the rear suspension. I’m between a basic parallel leaf spring set up and a triangular 4 link. When it’s done the truck will be a driver. I’m not intending to haul 2 tons of rocks but I would like to be able to go to the lumber yard on occasion to pick up a few sheets of plywood or a few 2×4’s. Front suspension will be one of your MII coil over kits. Rear end will be a ford 8.8 with traction loc. Can you offer any recommendations to help me with my decision?
Thanks.
Jack
Dear Jack…
Jack, here are some advantages of both systems:
Rear leaf springs
- Bolt-in installation. (You will have to weld spring pads onto your axle.)
- Price.
Coil-overs/triangulated rear 4-link
- Easy to change spring rates to fine tune the ride.
- The cost of new springs.
- Heavier-duty, higher quality shock than the standard ones that come in a standard leaf spring kit.
- Easy to change pinion angle.
- The coil-over has a designed ride height. Upper and lower mounts can be designed so the truck’s ride height will be where you want it with no guessing.
- Ride height is adjustable by using the lower coil-over mounting bracket holes.
- Ride height can be dialed in when different spring rate is used. (The lower spring seat can be adjusted up or down.)
I hope this helps with your decision.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thank you for the great help and parts. I have a request if possible, looking for a mounting bracket that would work for my upper 4 link bars that I bought from you it is the triangulated 4 link. I’m wanting to mount them to the top of a Chevy 10bolt rear end as you know the rear diff housing is cast. Any ideas or help would be great thanks
Dear Brian…
Brian, the upper bars can be mounted on the axle tubes just inside the frame rails. Angle the bars towards the middle of the frame and put a crossmember between the rails to hold the front brackets. All of the brackets in the kit can be used.
I hope this helps.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I just got the 4-link kit. Looks great and I can’t wait to install it. Do the bushing in the adjusters need to have zerk fittings installed?
Thanks
-Troy
Dear Troy…
Most (99.9%?) builders do not put grease fittings in the ends. Sometimes the urethane bushings squeak. I have tried several types of lubricant over the years, but now just drive the car.
My suggestion is to just install it as-is.
Good question.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in putting a 4 link triangulated under a ’73 Cougar convertible- ( think Mustang with a 5″ longer leaf spring.) I want to use the front spring eye brackets for the lower bars. All the frame rails, rockers and torque boxes are new. The car is on a Twirler now- (the best investment I ever made). I am a little puzzled about how to do the upper bars. I am leaning toward your large bushing 4 link kit, without using the front lower mounts. We are planning to start on this phase of the project in Jan. I would be grateful for any insight you could give me. Thanx…Bill
Dear Bill…
Bill, we can sub special bars to let you use the front spring eye bracket. The center of the lower bar mounting hole is 2-5/8″ ahead of axle center line. Give us the required center-to-center distance and we will make bars to suit. Standard bars would be credited and special bars invoiced. Special bars cost $7.00/ea more than standard.
The upper bars can be run from the housing out to the frame rails or a crossmember can be installed between the rails and the upper bars can run from the axle tubes, just inside the frame rails, to the crossmember above the drive shaft.
It is more cost effective to buy the whole kit and not use the lower bar frame brackets. The price for most of our kits is the sum of their components, but the rear 4-link kits are much less than the sum. Part kits get invoiced as individual pieces and this would likely cost more if the lower brackets were left out.
I agree with your choice of the large bushing kit. It will be a good one to use in your Cougar.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thanx, Paul…. This is the way we’ll go. I’ll be calling you in the middle of Jan. to place the order. Thank You, and have a Happy Holiday. Bill
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