Four Bar | Welder Series Inc.

Dear Welder Series… 1956 Studebaker Transtar

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul, I talked to you about my ’56 Studebaker P. U. and a front end coilover cross member kit with the brake caliper bracket kit, 5 on 4 1/2″ bolt circle. I am also considering welding a triangulated four link kit in the rear of the truck. If you could send the URL ‘S you talked about to make ordering and viewing the products easier that would be great. Thank you for taking the time to help me out, Santo.

Dear Santo…
Thanks for this note, Santo. Here are some url’s for front and rear suspension parts.

Mustang II kit for stock, Mustang II-style springs and shocks or QA1 Mustang II (MII) coil-overs (http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/drag-and-street/shocks-and-struts/stock-mount-shocks-and-struts/mustang-ii-shocks-and-pro-coil-system.html): http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ws14540/ (Note the links as you read down this page.)

Mustang II kit for conventional coil-overs: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/mustang-ii-crossmember-for-coil-springs-copy/ Scroll down this page to see the difference in coil-over style from the above kit.

Brake kit for Granada rotors/GM calipers on MII spindles: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/mustang-ii-brake-kit-for-granada-rotors/

Triangulated rear 4-link kits: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/

Please call if you have any questions.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… pro street rear four link

Dear Welder Series,
I have 2 questions on your Pro Street Rear 4 link kit.
What is the sidewall thickness of the link bars (is this the same for all of your 4 links?)
And I cannot locate any instructions on your site…what kind of mounting are the forward link brackets designed for? Bottom, side…sub frame, box?
Thanks,

Dear Dave,
Dave, the (WS)212470 kits have bars made from 1″ x .188 wall seamless tubing. The rear bars that have 5/8-18 threads are 1″ x .219 wall seamless.

The frame brackets are designed to mount to “stumps” coming off of the frame rails.

Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
ph

Big Bushing kits are big

FYI

For a product that hasn’t even made it in the paper catalog yet (sheesh), our big bushing four link kits are getting pretty popular! So popular, in fact, that they outsold our standard bushing kits for the past 30 days or so. With 3/4-16 threaded adjusters instead of 5/8-18 and 1-3/4″ wide bushings instead of about 1-3/8″, they’re a bit beefier, but otherwise the same.

Large adjuster:

Standard adjuster:

New large bushing triangulated four link kit

You remember our regular old four link kit that we’ve been making for over 25 years? It’s become the smaller sibling with the introduction of our large bushing four link kits. We first showed you the parallel version, and now we’re all set with a triangulated version! It’s a bit beefier with 3/4-16 adjusters and 1-5/8″ bushings.

Click here to check them all out.

Triangulated four link kit

Dear Welder Series… 60″ MII rack mount spacing

Dear Welder Series…
Hey, I’m curious to know if the 60″ universal mustang II crossmember kit has mounting holes for the rack and pinion setup at 16″ or 15 1/2″ on center??

Dear Craig…
Craig, the passenger side rack mount is slotted so either original (16″) or later (15-1/2″) Mustang II or T-Bird racks can be used.

Thanks for asking.

Paul Horton

Canadian Hot Rods’ Rambler 4-link install

Canadian Hot Rods is a Canadian high-quality magazine produced and edited by Terry Denomme. Terry is chronicling the build of a Rambler station wagon, and sent me the article from the four link install. He used Welder Series #2220. Follow along! You can check out their website too: www.canadianhotrods.com.

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Dear Welder Series… Four Link Question

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1956 Chev truck and want to put a 4 link in the back. I was thinking of a triangulated one. Would that work? The frame is 34 inches wide. Or should I use a parallel 4 bar and a panhard bar and which kit # do you recommend? thank you Dave

Dear Dave…
Dave, this is a good question… There are several considerations when choosing a rear suspension system.
An important one is frame width.
A typical triangulated rear 4-link has the upper bars mounting off of the frame boxing plates and angling back to each side of the differential housing. The narrower the frame, the less triangulation is possible unless the upper bars get shorter. Shorter upper bars cause greater pinion angle change. The upper bars could be angled from wide apart on the axle tubes to close together off of a crossmember to get more triangulation.

A parallel 4-link and Panhard bar is not as sensitive to frame width. The bars should be mounted as wide apart as practical to stabilize the rear end.

The triangulated system requires more precise installation. It costs less because there is no Panhard kit.

The parallel 4-link/Panhard system allows adjustment in any direction with a minimal effect on other settings.

Both systems can cause problems with exhaust routing.

I recommend the parallel kit because it’s easier to install and easier to set up.

Thanks for writing. I hope we can help with your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… four link setup

We get emails. We reply to emails. All of them. Even those nice people who want to see me more satisfied. (What’s a “male product”, anyways? Am I a product of my own imagination?) Anyways, I thought some of these tech type emails would be beneficial to more of you than solely the person who penned keyed the question. Onward.

Dear Welder Series…

Hi there,
I recently purchased one of your triangulated 4-link from Horton’s (www.horton.on.ca). I am currently building a 28 Model A Tudor and I am building my own frame. I’m about ready to start fabricating the rear section of the frame and I was wondering if you can give any tips on how to rig up the rear suspension/frame so I can get the car as close to the ground as possible without loosing to much headroom since the car is going to be chopped. I will be running 32″ tall rear tires and I would like the frame to be about 5 inches off the ground (at the floor before the rear Z). Also, I will be channeling the body.

Thanks a lot for your help!
Paul

Dear Paul…

This will be a neat project, Paul, but will require some planning.

The rear suspension set-up depends on the tire size. The frame mount for the lower bar should be about 5″ lower than the axle centerline (c/l), as shown in the installation drawing. With your 32″ tall rear tire, axle c/l will be about 15-1/2″ from the ground. We figure about 1/2″ for tire “squat” (the flat part of the tire on the ground). Using this information and your 5″ frame-to-ground dimension, and assuming(?) a 4″ high frame rail, the lower bar frame mount will be about 1-1/2″ higher than the top of the frame rail (2-1/2″ if you use 3×2 rails).

The upper bar frame mount should be about 2-1/8″ higher than the axle c/l height, or about 17-5/8″ from the ground. This would be about 8-5/8″ above the top of a 4″ frame rail or 9-5/8″ above a 3″ rail.

You might be able to incorporate both of these frame mounts into the kick. Or the lower mount could be a “bump” on top of the rail and the upper mount could be on the kick-up.

I would do lots of mock-up work before cutting anything. Then I’d tack everything in place and carry on with the build. This makes it easier to deal with “ambushes” (things that crop up that you weren’t prepared for). Specifically, check the angle and position of the upper bars. This will have an effect on the frame width (or vice-versa).

I hope this helps.

Paul Horton

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Dear Welder Series… 1956 Studebaker Transtar

Dear Welder Series… pro street rear four link

Big Bushing kits are big

New large bushing triangulated four link kit

Dear Welder Series… 60″ MII rack mount spacing

Canadian Hot Rods’ Rambler 4-link install

Dear Welder Series… Four Link Question

Dear Welder Series… four link setup

Dear Welder Series…

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