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Dear Welder Series…
I love your website. I have a 1978 trans am I am building a 4 link for. It weighs aprox 3800 lbs and around 500 hp. I’m not looking to drag race or auto cross the car, but I do have air ride shock waves. I was looking at your big bushing triangulated but all I need are the axle mounts, bars, bushings, and some upper shock mounts. I wouldn’t need the axle tabs or either frame mounts. The upper bars are around 9.25 inches eye to eye and the lower are 24.5 inches eye to eye.
Please let me know what my best option would be.
thank you Brad
Congrats, Steve! There’s $50 sitting on your account here at Welder Series for your next order. Steve used some brackets to put together a rear four link kit for his ’34 pickup. He did the lower bars first, and was planning to order some more parts for the uppers. This should help out!
I use www.random.org to decide the winner, because computers never make mistakes.
Parts In Pictures:
WS21852, axle bracket kit.
218502, formed frame bracket.
Dear Welder Series…
My son and I are interested in upgrading his 1987 Chevy with Mustang II front suspension and 4 bar rear, we like the Welder Series as it gives him the ability to do more of the work, he is a welder also so this should not be a problem, however I do not see that you have a kit, would you be able to build something to work in this application, the truck currently has Bell Tech suspension in it, we are also planning on installing a carbed 5.3 engine and TKO600 5 speed and likely a 9 inch ford diff, so we are starting with a fresh frame.
I can supply dimensional details if required, please advise, Thanks, Dale
Dear Dale…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series Mustang II kits, Dale.
The 1973 – 87 GM trucks have a fairly wide track width of about 66″ stock. Our widest kit track width is 60″, so the tires would be closer to the frame by about 3″ on each side. Check that this is the look that you want.
If you are starting with a fresh stock frame, there will be major work to do where the MII crossmember will mount. If you are building a tube frame, it can be designed to work easily with the MII crossmember.
At the back, be sure your gas tank placement will not interfere with the bracket placement. The brackets weld to the frame from 24″ – 34″ from rear axle c/l. The center of the front of the bar is 28″ ahead of axle c/l.
If you would like other info, please get in touch.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hi guys, just read the instructions for the rear triangle 4-link and just wondering, are the upper and lower bars supposed to end up parallel with one another? It appears that they should be by looking at your drawing but its noted stated specifically.
Thanks,
Dave
Dear Dave…
Hi, Dave. The triangulated rear 4-link bars are not parallel when viewed from the side. The front of the lower bar is about 1/2″ higher than the rear. The front of the upper bar is about 7/8″ lower than the rear. We have found that there is a fair bit of tolerance for the position of the frame mounts, but the instructions are the “best” way to install them.
Good question.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I’m planning on buying one of your triangulated four-link kits and had a question. I’m wondering what would be the reason for choosing a large bushing kit over the standard bushing kit? Is one better than the other? I’m also wanting to take advantage of the free shipping. Thanks for any help, Brian
Dear Brian…
Brian, there are several differences when comparing the standard and large bushing kits:
The adjuster threads in the standard kit are 5/8-18. They are 3/4-16 in the large bushing kit.
The urethane bushing outer tubes, in the standard kit, are 1-3/8″ o.d. x 11 ga (about 1/8″) wall thickness. The large bushing kit outer tubes are 1-5/8″ o.d. x 3/16″ wall.
The urethane bushings in the standard kit are 1-3/8″ wide. They are 1-3/4″ wide in the large bushing kit.
The seamless tubing used to make the bars in the standard kit is 1″ o.d. x .219″ wall thickness. The large bushing kit tubing is 1″ o.d. x .188 wall. This is thinner but still plenty strong enough. The size is mainly to accommodate the tap hole size.
The standard kit costs $15.00 less than the large bushing kit.
All of our personal cars have used the standard bushing kits, but we haven’t built a personal car since introducing the large bushing kits. We sell more large bushing kits than standard kits and I’ll probably use the large bushing one on my next project just because they are stronger, look more “heavy-duty”, and don’t cost much more. We keep the standard bushing kits in our product line because they are a proven part and builders keep buying them.
Good question! Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hi, can the WS477600 air spring brackets be substituted for the normal brackets in the WS218500 kit?
Thanks, Rob
Dear Rob…
Yes, Rob, they can.
WS218500 kit: $325.00
Less WS10768-2 axle brackets: -$70.00
Plus WS477600-2 air spring brackets: 87.20
New total: $342.20
You will need to mount the shocks and we have #223101 @ $20.00 each (2 required). They are the basic formed bracket from http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/axle-bracket-kit-for-coil-overs/ . You would use standard shock studs instead of the coil-over bolts and spacers.
Our standard freight charge would be extra.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul and Dorothy. Can I convert from a cross over panhard set up frame to axle housing running parallel. I want to remove it as it is too tight and banging to a triangulated set up. This is on a regular 4 link set up. Do you have a kit that would use a triangulated bar on the 4 link?
Hope you are staying well. Happy new year
Dear Gord…
Gord, here are some parts that would make the conversion from a parallel 4-link with a Panhard to a triangulated set-up:
Use the lower bars and brackets as-is.
Upper brackets (driver & pass sides): https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/frame-bracket-formed/
Axle bracket kit: https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/axle-bracket-kit-rear-triangulated-4-link/
Bars (2 pcs): https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/bars-1-od/
Adjusters (2 pcs): https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/adjuster-kits/
Urethane bushings (4 pcs): https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/urethane-bushing-kits/
Hardware: We can supply all of this that’s required.
The adjusters and bars are available with the urethane bushing tube welded on or you can weld it yourself. If you will do the welding, the tubes have to be added to the list above (4 pcs): https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/urethane-bushing-outer-sleeve/
The parts will cost about $200.00.
What are you working on? (I might change some of the parts once I know the vehicle.)
Happy New Year to you, too!
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in putting a 4 link triangulated under a ’73 Cougar convertible- ( think Mustang with a 5″ longer leaf spring.) I want to use the front spring eye brackets for the lower bars. All the frame rails, rockers and torque boxes are new. The car is on a Twirler now- (the best investment I ever made). I am a little puzzled about how to do the upper bars. I am leaning toward your large bushing 4 link kit, without using the front lower mounts. We are planning to start on this phase of the project in Jan. I would be grateful for any insight you could give me. Thanx…Bill
Dear Bill…
Bill, we can sub special bars to let you use the front spring eye bracket. The center of the lower bar mounting hole is 2-5/8″ ahead of axle center line. Give us the required center-to-center distance and we will make bars to suit. Standard bars would be credited and special bars invoiced. Special bars cost $7.00/ea more than standard.
The upper bars can be run from the housing out to the frame rails or a crossmember can be installed between the rails and the upper bars can run from the axle tubes, just inside the frame rails, to the crossmember above the drive shaft.
It is more cost effective to buy the whole kit and not use the lower bar frame brackets. The price for most of our kits is the sum of their components, but the rear 4-link kits are much less than the sum. Part kits get invoiced as individual pieces and this would likely cost more if the lower brackets were left out.
I agree with your choice of the large bushing kit. It will be a good one to use in your Cougar.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Thanx, Paul…. This is the way we’ll go. I’ll be calling you in the middle of Jan. to place the order. Thank You, and have a Happy Holiday. Bill
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 66 mustang that needs a new rear suspension. I am interested in your 4-link rear upgrade. Can you please tell me what I would need to purchase from you to complete this conversion?
Thanks,
David
Dear David…
David, you might also want to get the coil-over bolt kit. The sway bar would be another good part to use. If you will use the parallel rear 4-link, use a rear Panhard kit.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Good morning, I want to install a 4-link kit on my 95 S-10. I was hoping you could recommend a kit. If you could tell me what else I would need like the Panhard bar the bag brackets and whatever else you would recommend I would greatly appreciate this.
Thank you,
John
Dear John…
John, our WS318500 (ready-to-weld) or 318500 (welded) kits would be ideal for this job. I’d also suggest the (WS)2184 rear Panhard bar kit if you’re thinking of a parallel four link kit. The 474208 frame brackets and 21870 axle brackets will look after the air bags if you are using the F9000 or similar.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
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