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Dear Welder Series… 1934 Dodge coupe MII

Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in your weld-it series x-member, my question is can it be flipped around to create a rear steer x-member? Thank you very much Gerald

Dear Gerald…
Sorry, it’s not as easy as that. Mustang II spindles aren’t designed to
be rear-steered. Heidt’s, TCI, and Kugel all use a spindle that they
designed to be rear-steer. Usually, a Chrysler rack (Omni or K-car) is
used and these racks have different mounts from the MII.
Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
THANK YOU FOR YOUR RESPONSE . YOU SAVED ME A BIG HEADACHE . I’LL PROBABLY STICK WITH THE MII ,TO KEEP IT SIMPLE….CAN YOU TELL ME, IF I USE YOUR 58″ TRACK X-MEMBER, WHAT IS THE MEASUREMENT BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS?
I’M USING A 354 HEMI IN MY PROJECT AND I COULD USE A COUPLE EXTRA INCHES IN THAT AREA. THANKS AGAIN YOU HAVE BEEN A GREAT HELP… JERRY

Dear Jerry…
For a 58″ crossmember, here are some frame width considerations:

The 58″ upper towers can’t be more than 28″ apart, so that would be the minimum frame width outside. 30″ would be better, as it will let the tower weld to the top and outside of the frame.
The 58″ crossmember is 32″ wide, so that would be the max frame width inside. 30″ would be better, as it would let the crossmember weld to the inside and bottom of the frame.

There are “work-arounds” to accommodate frame dimensions narrower or wider than those above. Even with the dimensions given the frame to ground dimension and spindle height will have an effect on the min and max frame width.

I hope this helps. Please write again if you need more information.

Paul

Montana Dodge Boys

This goes under the “DW’s Popular Pages” category because it’s a nicely put together video telling the story of a group of friends building a purpose-built car.  It reminded me of a post I made a while back on purpose-built cars.

Description from the video: “The story of a group of guys who, on a $100 bet, and in only ten months, designed, engineered, & fabricated a flathead four cylinder 1928 Dodge Roadster and set a few land speed records at the Bonneville Salt Flats.”

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II for ’52 Dodge- pics!

Dear Dave…
Just a quick email to make sure your parts arrived in good condition, and most of all to make sure you’re happy with them. I hope you’ll get a chance to go through the catalog that was with your order and let us know if there’s anything else we can help with. Remember… we also do custom work.
Thanks very much for your business.
DW Horton
Welder Series Inc.

Dear Welder Series…
I’m very satisfied with the entire process. As a matter of fact, I’ve got the cross member and spring pockets tack welded in place…..Looking to purchase more stuff to do my brake/clutch and rear-end installation.
Dave

Thanks Dave, I’m glad you’re happy with everything.  I would like to see  some pictures of your frame!
Talk to you soon
dw

dw
here’s a photo of my frame.  Just an old ’52 Dodge, that I saved from the crusher. I’m concerned about the spring tower angle (from horizontal) It’s about 15 degrees. Is that correct?
Thanks, Dave

Dave, this is a very good picture of the installation.  The upper towers look fine.  The angle is correct.

Thanks for the picture and the positive feedback.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 4′ sway bar?

Dear Welder Series…
I am building a custom full size truck, and the current series sway bars you offer are not going to be long enough for my application. I was wondering if it would be possible to purchase not the whole kit, but the sway bar shaft itself (3/4″-36 spline on one end, unsplined on the other) at around 4ft?

Look forward to hearing back from you ASAP, Thanks!

Dear Zac…
Zac, are you mounting the arms outside the frame rails?

Another way of “making” a longer sway bar is to use 2 of our standard bars with the splined ends touching each other near the center.  Use a splined coupler (e.g. Borgeson 313434) to joint the two bars, yet allow them to be taken apart if they have to be removed.  A short length of tubing can be welded or bolted to each of the frame rails and the couplers welded to the smooth ends of the bars and then the arms welded to the couplers.

We can supply, individually, the bars and any of the other components that you might need.

Thanks for considering Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

[UPDATE] We now have sway bar kits with 46″ long bars: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/sway-bar-kit/

Dear Welder Series…
Bonjour,
J’ai un ami qui a un propblème avec son rod et j’aimerais vous le soumettre. Il a installé un nouveau moteur 350pc et la température se tient au-dessus des 220 degrés. Il a un shell de Ford 32 et le radiateur est récent, mais un peu petit. Je vois les rods américains avec des 350 pc (blower), air climatisé et ils ne semblent pas avoir de problème de surchauffe. Alors, existe-t-il des radiateurs plus performants pour fixer à l’intérieur d’un shell de Ford 32? Si oui, combien pour un tel rad?
J’ai déjà acheté des pièces chez Paul Horton et j’ai toujours été très satisfait. Je roule avec une Chevy 1940 depuis 1974… Je suis un vieux… roddeur.

Merci, j’attends votre réponse. Gervais

Gervais, merci pour cette note.  Vous avez une belle Chevy.

Quelle fan est installee?  Est-ce qu’il y’a une fan avec une “shroud”?

Est-ce que la temperature est elevee sur l’autoroute ou seulement en ville?

J’ai installee les radiateurs et fans de “Walker” et, si l’ai peut passe dans le core du rad, la temperature reste a la thermostat.  http://www.walkerradiatorworks.com/

Et, en anglais…

Thanks for this note, Gervais.  That’s a good looking Chev.

What fan is on your friend’s 32?  Does it have a shroud?

Is the temperature hot on the autoroute or just in town?

I’ve always used Walker rads, fans, and shrouds and the temperature stays close to the thermostat.

I sold Horton’s in 2005 and now own Welder Series.  http://www.welderseries.com/

Paul Horton