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Dear Welder Series…
I am looking for help with my 1953 Ford build.
I have purchased a 1993 LS1 motor, a 700 trans and a 12 bolt rear end I am trying to fit in the truck. The wheels I will be running are 30″ on the outside, 10 3/4″ wide with a 6 7/8 offset from the back of the rim. My goal is to set the bumpers and running boards on the ground with a full air ride. Is there a chance you could specify what I will need to purchase from your catalog to get all my frame welding going? As it stands right know I have pulled all the suspension out of the truck and it is just sitting on the frame now. Would love to order everything for Christmas. Thank you for your time and please feel free to call with any other questions you might have.
Keith
Dear Keith…
Keith, here are some links to kits for this build:
Choose a 60″ track width kit for your F100.
If you will use conventional air springs: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/category/mustang-ii-crossmember-kits/?sort=title
If you plan to use ShockWaves: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/21906/
If you will use a power rack from a 79-92 T-Bird, order the relocation kit: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rack-mount-spacer-kit/
There are several different LS engine mount kits. They are shown at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ls1-motor-mounts/ .
For your 700 R4 transmission, here are 2 options:
A simple crosmember and drop-out saddle (check out the “welded” version): http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/transmission-mount-kit-2115/
Or a tubular center section (with the 700R4 trans mount option): http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/frame-center-section-universal/
For either of the above, use transmission mount insulator http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/transmission-insulator-2268/
If you 12 bolt rear end has the ears for the triangulated GM links, you could use our rear kit at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-kit-rear-8-8-ford/ . We would add brackets if you will use conventional air springs.
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/air-spring-axle-bracket/
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/air-spring-frame-bracket-2/
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-crossmember-kit/ This crossmember can be used to mount the upper end of the ShockWave (with 5/8″ hardware), or shocks with 7/16″ upper eyes.
If you plan to use a parallel rear 4-link, here are the kit pages:
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-package-parallel/
For ShockWaves,
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-parallel-universal/
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-universal-rear/
Use the rear crossmember with 5/8″ bolts.
With shockWaves on either the triangulated or the parallel kit, use a bolt kit from http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/bolt-kit-for-rear-coil-overs/
I hope this list helps. Please write or call on our toll-free line, 1-888-648-2150, if you want more details.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul,
I recently bought a coil over MII kit from you. I see a recommended ride height for the coil overs, but how about extended and collapsed length, or shock travel length?
Thanks
Matt
Dear Matt…
Matt, we define a coil-over’s ride height as eye center to center compressed 1/3 of the stroke from fully extended. For example, a coil-over with an extended dimension of 13″ and a compressed dimension of 10″ would have a designed ride height of 12″. Similarly, a coil-over with an extended dimension of 14-1/2″ c-c and a compressed dimension of 10″ would have a designed ride height of 13″. A shock with 3″ of travel will be fine for a MII front end. Shocks with longer stroke have the potential for a better ride, but only if the chassis is built so nothing tops or bottoms out with the extra travel.
I hope this helps with your selection.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I contacted you last year before Christmas sometime and was going to order up a rear 4 link with air bag brackets. Since then things have changed and now I will be doing the same thing but with a smaller axle. It is the gm 8.5″ from an S10. The axle tube dimension is less than what your brackets are cut for. Do you have a different axle bracket to fit the smaller axle tube diameter? Or do you have a suggestion for my problem?
thanks,
Dennis
Dear Dennis…
Builders have used a short length of tubing, 3″ O.D. and the same I.D. as your axle tube, as a bushing. Split the tube into 2 “C” halves. This will make up the difference in the axle to bracket diameter. It will also spread the load over a wider area for more strength.
Thanks for asking, Dennis.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul,
thanks for getting back so soon. This is going to be installed on a 57 GMC truck. I am thinking the bars should be sort of parallel with the road at ride height, which means the lower bar will be below the frame quite a bit. Do you make a frame bracket for these trucks?
thanks,
Dennis
Dear Dennis…
I have a similar bracket that was designed for the Ford F1 truck. One bar mounts just above the bottom of the frame rail and the other is lower. Will check it out when I get a few minutes.
Thanks for asking.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
Hope you had a great Christmas and have a happy New Year!
I had a question as to whether or not you have, or can come up with, a combination brake and clutch kit utilizing a GM style brake master cylinder and a Wilwood single reservoir clutch master cylinder to be installed in a T Bucket with straight frame rails.
If you do not have something already, what would be involved ($$$) in coming up with such an item, if you think you would want to mess this such a thing?
My thinking is, by utilizing a hydraulic clutch the problem with clutch linkage is done away with, and the pedal configuration can be worked out within the confines of a T Bucket interior, I think.
Thanks in advance for you time and consideration.
Any suggestions you may have would be greatly appreciated as I am determined to have a four speed T Bucket!
Joe
Dear Joe…
Thanks for asking, Joe. Check the video almost at the bottom of http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/booster-bracket-pedal-kit/ . This bracket will take a GM master cylinder. Holes could be drilled for the Wilwood clutch master. The pedals can be traded out for the 21890 straight up brake pedal arms. It would cost a little over $200. (I’ll check this out tomorrow for you.)
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
I love your website. I have a 1978 trans am I am building a 4 link for. It weighs aprox 3800 lbs and around 500 hp. I’m not looking to drag race or auto cross the car, but I do have air ride shock waves. I was looking at your big bushing triangulated but all I need are the axle mounts, bars, bushings, and some upper shock mounts. I wouldn’t need the axle tabs or either frame mounts. The upper bars are around 9.25 inches eye to eye and the lower are 24.5 inches eye to eye.
Please let me know what my best option would be.
thank you Brad
Dear Welder Series…
Hey, I’m looking at your 4 link pro street kit, and would like as well a kit for coil overs and panhard bar, for a 31 Ford with 9 inch rear, will be using the stock rear cross member, thanks for your help.
Jim
Dear Jim…
Jim, the upper bars on the pro/street kit are going to be in the way of the Panhard kit if the Panhard is mounted on the front of the 9″ Ford. The coil-overs will probably interfere if the Panhard is on the rear side. We used to use a diagonal bar from the driver’s side frame bracket to the passenger side axle bracket. These have to be custom made once the 4-link has been installed.
We have a coil-over crossmember, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-crossmember-kit/ , and a coil-over mounting bolt kit, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/bolt-kit-for-rear-coil-overs/ .
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Paul,
I am building a 1960 Morris Minor and am debating on using a straight axle for a gasser style look or an IFS. It has a very narrow front wheelbase. Outside to outside of existing tire is about 55”. Have you made a kit that would fit this car?
Mickey
Dear Mickey…
Mickey, builders have narrowed our 56″ crossmember to get the track width they need. Racks are available, up to 9″ narrower than stock, from MAVAL, http://www.mavalgear.com/unisteer.html. Our blog has posts regarding narrowing the MII at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/?s=narrow+mustang.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Sirs,
I would appreciate info concerning a Mustang 2 crossmember to meet the following requirements. I have a 1940 Oldsmobile that I have replaced the front end with 2 parallel 2×4 rectangular 7ga steel tubes. I now need a crossmember to fit this arrangement. The distance between my rails is 29 5/16 inches. The outside measurement is 33 1/4 inches. The face of drum width of the original front end was 59 inches.
I hope to maintain the original ride height or as close to possible.
I also will be mounting a differential from a 2000 Blazer on this same vehicle. The Blazer had leaf springs and my Olds has coil springs. If you have any information on this installation I sure could use it. Finally, I would like you to send a catalog to the address below. Thanks for your help.
Al
Dear Al…
Al, here is a link to some pictures that show installations similar to yours: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/category/mustang-ii-installed-pics/. The maximum frame o.d. for our 58″ kit is 32″ and for the 60″ kit is 34″. Putting a spring clearance notch in the outside of the rails lets you get away with narrower track widths in wide frames.
Our kit instructions walk you through the process of notching the crossmember and the upper towers to fit your rails so the front end will sit at the height you want.
We don’t have any coil spring brackets for the rear end installation. Sorry.
A catalog will be in the mail.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series:
I have a 37 I beam solid axle mounted on a 29 frame, with the spring in front on the split wishbone. I was considering moving the spring over the axle and mounting shocks in front using the spring perches of the wishbone. I think this makes a cleaner look.
Looks or not, is rearranging the spring location from in front of, to over the axle done and is it a matter of “builder’s choice”? This would mount the shocks in front of the axle, does it matter if the shocks are in front or behind the axle, I have seen pictures with it both ways.
I would really appreciate your opinion.
Thanks, Brock
Dear Brock,
Brock, there are several issues to consider if you want the spring on top of your 37 axle. The 37 Ford stock front spring is 2″ wide and aftermarket spring perches, that put the spring on top of the axle, are made for 1-3/4″ wide springs. The stock 37 spring will be too wide to use above the axle, too. I don’t know of an aftermarket company that makes a 1-3/4″ wide spring to be mounted above the 37 axle, so a custom one will have to be made.
Performance-wise, you won’t notice any difference with the shocks mounted in front or behind the axle. If they are mounted behind, be sure the tie rod doesn’t hit them in a full-lock turn.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hi,
In your #2072 Installation Tips on Model A and 32 Fords you reference a measurement from the radiator mounting hole for the Vega Steering Box Bracket, do you have a measurement for 33/34 Fords or an article I can reference? Ron
Dear Ron…
There are 3 holes in the frame for the front fender brace. the (upper) rear hole center is axle centerline. We put the top hole of the Vega steering bracket 10-1/2″ back from that hole and 1-5/8″ down from the top of the frame rail.
However, it is always a good idea to mock up the front suspension parts with the frame at ride height to be sure the drag link is parallel to the tie rod and at the same height and that the drag link tie rod end doesn’t touch the tie rod.
Thanks for asking.
Paul Horton
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