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Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I contacted you last year before Christmas sometime and was going to order up a rear 4 link with air bag brackets. Since then things have changed and now I will be doing the same thing but with a smaller axle. It is the gm 8.5″ from an S10. The axle tube dimension is less than what your brackets are cut for. Do you have a different axle bracket to fit the smaller axle tube diameter? Or do you have a suggestion for my problem?
thanks,
Dennis
Dear Dennis…
Builders have used a short length of tubing, 3″ O.D. and the same I.D. as your axle tube, as a bushing. Split the tube into 2 “C” halves. This will make up the difference in the axle to bracket diameter. It will also spread the load over a wider area for more strength.
Thanks for asking, Dennis.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul,
thanks for getting back so soon. This is going to be installed on a 57 GMC truck. I am thinking the bars should be sort of parallel with the road at ride height, which means the lower bar will be below the frame quite a bit. Do you make a frame bracket for these trucks?
thanks,
Dennis
Dear Dennis…
I have a similar bracket that was designed for the Ford F1 truck. One bar mounts just above the bottom of the frame rail and the other is lower. Will check it out when I get a few minutes.
Thanks for asking.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
Hope you had a great Christmas and have a happy New Year!
I had a question as to whether or not you have, or can come up with, a combination brake and clutch kit utilizing a GM style brake master cylinder and a Wilwood single reservoir clutch master cylinder to be installed in a T Bucket with straight frame rails.
If you do not have something already, what would be involved ($$$) in coming up with such an item, if you think you would want to mess this such a thing?
My thinking is, by utilizing a hydraulic clutch the problem with clutch linkage is done away with, and the pedal configuration can be worked out within the confines of a T Bucket interior, I think.
Thanks in advance for you time and consideration.
Any suggestions you may have would be greatly appreciated as I am determined to have a four speed T Bucket!
Joe
Dear Joe…
Thanks for asking, Joe. Check the video almost at the bottom of http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/booster-bracket-pedal-kit/ . This bracket will take a GM master cylinder. Holes could be drilled for the Wilwood clutch master. The pedals can be traded out for the 21890 straight up brake pedal arms. It would cost a little over $200. (I’ll check this out tomorrow for you.)
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
I love your website. I have a 1978 trans am I am building a 4 link for. It weighs aprox 3800 lbs and around 500 hp. I’m not looking to drag race or auto cross the car, but I do have air ride shock waves. I was looking at your big bushing triangulated but all I need are the axle mounts, bars, bushings, and some upper shock mounts. I wouldn’t need the axle tabs or either frame mounts. The upper bars are around 9.25 inches eye to eye and the lower are 24.5 inches eye to eye.
Please let me know what my best option would be.
thank you Brad
Dear Welder Series…
Hey, I’m looking at your 4 link pro street kit, and would like as well a kit for coil overs and panhard bar, for a 31 Ford with 9 inch rear, will be using the stock rear cross member, thanks for your help.
Jim
Dear Jim…
Jim, the upper bars on the pro/street kit are going to be in the way of the Panhard kit if the Panhard is mounted on the front of the 9″ Ford. The coil-overs will probably interfere if the Panhard is on the rear side. We used to use a diagonal bar from the driver’s side frame bracket to the passenger side axle bracket. These have to be custom made once the 4-link has been installed.
We have a coil-over crossmember, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-crossmember-kit/ , and a coil-over mounting bolt kit, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/bolt-kit-for-rear-coil-overs/ .
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Paul,
I am building a 1960 Morris Minor and am debating on using a straight axle for a gasser style look or an IFS. It has a very narrow front wheelbase. Outside to outside of existing tire is about 55”. Have you made a kit that would fit this car?
Mickey
Dear Mickey…
Mickey, builders have narrowed our 56″ crossmember to get the track width they need. Racks are available, up to 9″ narrower than stock, from MAVAL, http://www.mavalgear.com/unisteer.html. Our blog has posts regarding narrowing the MII at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/?s=narrow+mustang.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Sirs,
I would appreciate info concerning a Mustang 2 crossmember to meet the following requirements. I have a 1940 Oldsmobile that I have replaced the front end with 2 parallel 2×4 rectangular 7ga steel tubes. I now need a crossmember to fit this arrangement. The distance between my rails is 29 5/16 inches. The outside measurement is 33 1/4 inches. The face of drum width of the original front end was 59 inches.
I hope to maintain the original ride height or as close to possible.
I also will be mounting a differential from a 2000 Blazer on this same vehicle. The Blazer had leaf springs and my Olds has coil springs. If you have any information on this installation I sure could use it. Finally, I would like you to send a catalog to the address below. Thanks for your help.
Al
Dear Al…
Al, here is a link to some pictures that show installations similar to yours: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/category/mustang-ii-installed-pics/. The maximum frame o.d. for our 58″ kit is 32″ and for the 60″ kit is 34″. Putting a spring clearance notch in the outside of the rails lets you get away with narrower track widths in wide frames.
Our kit instructions walk you through the process of notching the crossmember and the upper towers to fit your rails so the front end will sit at the height you want.
We don’t have any coil spring brackets for the rear end installation. Sorry.
A catalog will be in the mail.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series:
I have a 37 I beam solid axle mounted on a 29 frame, with the spring in front on the split wishbone. I was considering moving the spring over the axle and mounting shocks in front using the spring perches of the wishbone. I think this makes a cleaner look.
Looks or not, is rearranging the spring location from in front of, to over the axle done and is it a matter of “builder’s choice”? This would mount the shocks in front of the axle, does it matter if the shocks are in front or behind the axle, I have seen pictures with it both ways.
I would really appreciate your opinion.
Thanks, Brock
Dear Brock,
Brock, there are several issues to consider if you want the spring on top of your 37 axle. The 37 Ford stock front spring is 2″ wide and aftermarket spring perches, that put the spring on top of the axle, are made for 1-3/4″ wide springs. The stock 37 spring will be too wide to use above the axle, too. I don’t know of an aftermarket company that makes a 1-3/4″ wide spring to be mounted above the 37 axle, so a custom one will have to be made.
Performance-wise, you won’t notice any difference with the shocks mounted in front or behind the axle. If they are mounted behind, be sure the tie rod doesn’t hit them in a full-lock turn.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hi,
In your #2072 Installation Tips on Model A and 32 Fords you reference a measurement from the radiator mounting hole for the Vega Steering Box Bracket, do you have a measurement for 33/34 Fords or an article I can reference? Ron
Dear Ron…
There are 3 holes in the frame for the front fender brace. the (upper) rear hole center is axle centerline. We put the top hole of the Vega steering bracket 10-1/2″ back from that hole and 1-5/8″ down from the top of the frame rail.
However, it is always a good idea to mock up the front suspension parts with the frame at ride height to be sure the drag link is parallel to the tie rod and at the same height and that the drag link tie rod end doesn’t touch the tie rod.
Thanks for asking.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
What kind of steel are your tabs and gussets made from? Mild Steel?
Thanks,
Rasmus
Dear Rasmus…
Yes, Rasmus, all of the parts are mild steel, pickled and oiled, except where noted in our catalog or on the webstore. Examples of stainless parts are some of our exhaust hangers and the brake pedal pad mounts.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Rob here. Mr_____v on the H.A.M.B. and some other boards.
I’m about to build a new frame for my 48 Chevrolet Pickup and since I already have a stash of MII suspension pieces I’ve pretty well decided that the most logical way to go with the suspension is to use one of your kits and the factory Ford pieces including the strut arms.
The plan is to run steel rims with a shallow reverse or offset. Basically the old 15×7 chrome reverse wheels that have been around forever.
Ride will be low but with coil springs and no bags.
My question is, which of your M-II kits do you suggest for this application? I can figure out the outside of hub part easy enough but do you have certain kits that are made especially for the AD GM trucks?
Rob
Dear Rob…
Hi, Rob. Thanks for writing.
The 56″ MII kit is normally used with your series pickups. You would still notch the crossmember and the upper towers so the frame ride height will be where you want it.
Be sure to order the strut rod bracket & gusset kit (#108140) and, if you will use the later model T-Bird rack, order the rack mount spacer kit (#24410). The steering shaft bearing support (#219600) is another thing you will probably need.
The reversed wheels will likely still be o.k. to use as there is quite a bit of space out to the fender edge with standard wheels.
I hope this answers your questions. If not, please hit me again from another direction.
Paul Horton
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