Dear Welder Series…
Do you have a frame C notch kit for the rear suspension of a 38 Chevy?
Thanks for asking, Fred. If you want to put a simple c-notch in the bottom of the frame rail for rear end clearance, we have #12203.
We also have the frame curve sections, as shown here .
I hope one of these will solve your problem.
This is a new product that has evolved out of a customer’s willingness to ask us if we would consider making a step notch kit. The question was posed, and we responded by doing some research into the step notch market. If you’ve never really heard of a step notch, it’s basically a clearance channel for the rear axle, typically used in a mini truck (S10, Ranger, etc.) frame to let the frame drop down without resting on top of the axle. Kind of like a kick-up or a C notch. The mini truck market seems to be saturated with step notch kits – kind of like a Mustang II kit for a ’40 Ford at first glance. Sure, there are a few variations on the theme, but they’re all step notch kits at heart. This new step notch kit we’re introducing is still a step notch, of course, but it has some advantages that we feel are significant.
The notch depth will vary, depending on how tall the frame rails are, and what sweep the original frame rails have. The S10 we used for our installation article, for instance, has 4″ of clearance between the top of the axle and the notch when the frame is laying on the ground. The measurement was taken with 18″ wheels.
Step Notch Dimensions
Laser cut slits
- Available ready-to-weld. This is a huge thing with mini truckers – they love fabricating. Also available completely welded to save a bit of time.
- Alignment tabs. No guesswork when it comes to squaring it up. Easy to clamp while you’re tacking it together.
- Sits on outside top corner of frame rail. If you choose to grind the welds, you’ll have a smooth transition from the notch kit to your frame rails.
- Integral inner boxing plates. The inner plates weld to both the upper and lower flange of a C channel frame rail for strength.
- Weld it off the frame. The majority of the welding is done on your bench, where you can position the piece for the best weld. When you’re done welding the notch, just set it on the frame rail and weld it in place.
If you have any questions about the kit, please send us an email or call toll-free: 1-888-648-2150.
Click here to go to our web store.
If you’re looking for a standard C notch fill piece, try one of these.
This is a great photo tutorial on C notching the rails for rear axle clearance… and he just happens to be using Welder Series notches!
Terry just sent us an email with some pictures of how he used our frame curves. I thought it was most worthy of being shared! Here’s a bit of the email:
Put the curves together, cut the top part of the frame out and then just slid the curves into the frame. Then after welding I just cut the sides and bottom of the frame away and finished welding the curves and frame together with a gusset here and there. This gave me a good 4 inches more travel for my air ride, so far so good everything is working as planned.
This is being done on a 48 Chevy fleetline aero sedan.
Thanks again, Terry
Thank you, Terry!
Dear Welder Series…
I am not sure which kit I need. I am working on a 1951 Chevy Fleetline and I do not know where the measurements on your kits originate. ie outside frame or inside. Or just tell me which kit will work. If this is as nifty as it looks I will probably be buying a few from you. Thanks Scott
Scott, this Chev would use a 56″ kit. The dimensions (56, 58, 60″) refer to the distance from wheel mounting flange to flange of the rotors.
Our kit lets you set up the car at the ride height you want, based on your tire size. It will fit your frame because you transfer frame dimensions to the crossmember and upper towers. A worksheet is included with the kit.
I hope we can work with you.