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Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1934 Plymouth coupe I am building into a street rod. I have ECI front Granada discs on a Fat Man front end. I am running 10″ rear drums on an 8 inch Ford rear and have a 7″ single booster with a 1″ ECI master cylinder [corvette style]. I see you show a 4.5 inch pedal ratio for power brakes. Would that be what I need with a 7″ single booster also? I bought an older Master power setup that came with a 6.1 pedal. The car is small block Mopar and auto. Thanks for any help. Dave
Dear Dave…
Dave, you can use the pedal that you have. The 4.5:1 ratio works well with power brakes, but you should be o.k. with that 6:1, too. The pedal pressure will be lighter and the pedal will travel farther before the brakes actuate.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I was wondering if you have considered coming up with a dual m/c and hydraulic clutch cylinder bracket for under the floor mounting.
Thanks, Todd
Dear Todd…
Todd, we can sub manual pedals for the power booster pedals and add another plunger and rod end. We don’t sell master cylinders.
This is described in our catalog on page 20. (It’s not in our web store.) http://www.welderseries.com/hardcopy/weldercat.pdf
Is this what you are thinking of?
Thanks for the suggestion.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I think that will work! It will be going in a 36 Ford frame. I assume these are designed to be fairly universal and I will have to adapt it to fir my frame? Thanks, Todd
Dear Todd…
Todd, if your 36 Ford has the stock x-member, this will be hard to install. The pedals will want the same space as the front part of the ‘x’. If the pedals are moved ahead, the bracket will want the same space as the ‘x’.
If the ‘x’ has been removed or modified, this can work.
If you send some pics, I’ll think about ways to do it.
Thanks.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
 Model A master cylinder bracket Paul, which of your brake pedal kits would you recommend for application onto a basically stock, (boxed) ’30 Model A Frame? I am not planning on installing power brakes, so I just need something for a standard setup. If you would kindly forward me a part number,..I will get down to your shop in the very early New Year. I have received the Cat. that you forwarded me,…Thank You
regards
Wayne
Dear Wayne…
Wayne, here’s a link to the Model ‘A’ manual pedal & bracket kit. https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/brake-pedal-master-cylinder-bracket-model-a/.
If you want to order it now (or soon), we can tag one for you so it will be here when you want it. Please let us know if you want to weld it yourself (WS13704) or have us weld it (13704).
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
Looking at the brake booster kit WS24806. Can you get the same kit but with a pedal arm that is flat with no kinks or bends. If so, will it be the same price?
Thanks
Jay
Kelowna BC
Dear Jay…
We can sub any pedal in the kit Jay. See https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/category/brakes/pedal-kits/pedal-kit-parts/ for the various ones.
We would credit the arm #213211 (standard in the kit) and invoice for the pedal you want.
Thanks for looking at the flexibility of Welder Series part numbers.
Paul Horton
I was browsing Grant Schwartz’s website (www.schwartzwelding.com) today and stumbled on this 1947 Mercury gallery. Grant is doing some neat frame work here, but what I zeroed in on was the way he mounted the brake pedal bracket. He used a Welder Series #WS25800 kit, and instead of bolting the pedal bracket to the frame using the tabs in the kit, he shortened the lower plate and set the upper plate on top of the frame rail. This is very similar to the way Lowdown Hotrods did the remote pedal kit in a Model A frame they built (pictures are on the WS25800 product page of our web store). Both these methods will get the brake pedal very close to the inside of the frame rail.
You can also see our #00206 body mount plates Grant used.
Salty (on the H.A.M.B.) is doing some major updates to his 1950 Chevy pickup truck, and documenting it all in this thread. He called a little while ago and asked if we could come up with a solution to mount his booster under the floor, but his frame was very narrow. Here’s a photo of what we came up with:
You can see how he brought the booster bracket up over the top of the frame rail until the booster was very close the the inside of the rail. He did the same thing to the pedal bracket – the bent plate actually sandwiches the pedal against the inside of the frame rail… you can’t get much tighter than that!
I installed our brake pedal pad bracket and thought I’d show the progress…
Here’s the kit – stainless brackets, stainless hardware, and instructions.
One bracket goes on the outside of the pedal, and the other bracket sandwiches the pedal on the inside. The masking tape is how far the pedal goes during full travel. As you can see, I’ll have to trim the leading edge of the pedal.
The two holes in the pedal let you set up the bracket to a comfortable angle for your foot.
The slots in the two brackets line up for your pedal pad to mount to.
Another feature of the slots is to let the pedal pad move up and down, effectively modifying your pedal ratio.
#12920
There are many products on the market for brake pedal grommets, but a) I didn’t have one last night, and b) I guess I don’t have a b). Here’s how I made the brake pedal seal:
I rummaged around the shop, sure I had some rubber sheets or something to use as a seal for the pedal to slide through. After I was all rummaged out, I grabbed the liner out of the bottom of one of the toolbox drawers and decided to sacrifice a corner. It’s not rubber – more like a closed-cell foam, but it will do.
For the outer ring, I’m using our part #3018W. Originally, this is the washer that we include in our Mustang II strut rod bracket kits. We have found a bunch of uses for them though.
I want to drill four holes at 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00. I’d trump fixtures over measuring any day of the week, and this is no exception. I dropped the washer in a hole template which has perpendicular reference marks and marked my holes.
To attach the ring to the firewall, I’m using 8-32 knife inserts. These are really handy because they let you use a machine screw into fiberglass.
I’ve painted the washer now, and should have it all ready to install soon. The drawer liner seal will be sandwiched between the washer and the firewall.
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