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’32 Update… Ride Height Gauge (article 57)

*ahem* “instrument”…

Going way back to this post on exhaust air speed and air ride tune-ability, we’re finally starting to get serious about figuring out the ride height of the ’32, instead of just air pressure. Air pressure is ok for an overview of ride height… if you know what pressure the bags have to be at, with a given load. What we were finding in the ’32 (and maybe it’s because it’s a relatively lightweight vehicle), is that just because the pressure in the bags was 50 psi, didn’t mean the car was sitting where we thought it was. The PSI could read the same with 2″ of ride height variation, depending on the load.

Example:

Bags are at 50 PSI and there is 2″ between the wheel well and tire. Add 200 pound passenger. Ride height goes down, PSI goes up, wheel well gap decreases. How much pressure do I have to add to get the gap back at 2″?

Enter the ride height gauge.

We had a few ways to accomplish this, but the idea is pretty simple. Get rid of the pressure gauge (I could care less what pressure is in the bags… I want to know where the car is sitting!) and substitute with a ride height gauge. The gauge would measure actual ride height; optimal being in the middle, with low and high on either extreme. The gauge would measure the relationship between a point on the body and a point on the axle, and show that relationship on the gauge. A friend of mine with an air ride equipped ’76 Mercedes was thinking along the same lines with a thermometer type gauge that would be hard lined to the body with a solid inner cable (think choke cable) that would move similar to the mercury in a thermometer, indicating the ride height.
Another friend (there’s two so far!) actually made a prototype light sensor that would turn on an LED when the beam was broken, indicating optimal ride height.
We discussed the idea with John and Zac at Classic Instruments and they suggested two fuel tank sensors, one mounted on either side, running to a three way switch (driver side/off/passenger side) and then on to a custom printed “fuel” gauge. Two days after telling us they’d first get on it, we have the gauge and two fuel level senders sitting on the bench! Next step will be figuring out where to mount them.

Dear Welder Series… air ride for triangulated four link?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, can the WS477600 air spring brackets be substituted for the normal brackets in the WS218500 kit?
Thanks, Rob

Dear Rob…
Yes, Rob, they can.

WS218500 kit: $325.00
Less WS10768-2 axle brackets: -$70.00
Plus WS477600-2 air spring brackets: 87.20

New total: $342.20

You will need to mount the shocks and we have #223101 @ $20.00 each (2 required).  They are the basic formed bracket from http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/axle-bracket-kit-for-coil-overs/ .  You would use standard shock studs instead of the coil-over bolts and spacers.

Our standard freight charge would be extra.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

’32 Update: Control Your Air Ride Exhaust (article 55)

I’ve got a whole air ride theory article in the works, relaying my experiences and hunches over the last two seasons of driving a light car with air ride on the rear.  Until then, here’s a tip for controlling your rate of decline, allowing you to fine-tune the ride.  I’ve found it’s more effective to arrive at a constant and happy ride quality by ‘coming down’ on the ride height you’re shooting for, rather than squirting little bursts into the bags to get to a predetermined ride height/quality.

artsolenoid01I put a tiny, tiny hole in a hole plug and screwed it into the exhaust port.  Next time the correct size hole plug shows itself around these parts, I’m going to drill an even smaller hole in it and replace this one.

Over the winter, we’re hoping to create some sort of easy ride height gauge for the ’32.  Stay tuned…

Dear Welder Series… 1954 Chev MII

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m looking at your mustang II crossmember kit, and I’m wondering if it would be appropriate for a 54 Chevy that I want to bag and have lay on the ground.  Can I get it low
enough with your cross member, or would I need to look at Z-ing the frame?

I’ve got a donor Mustang II that I’ll be getting the arms and whatnot off of to use for this project.

Also, how is shipping to the states?  Is it reasonable, or prohibitively expensive?

Thanks,
Jake

Dear Jake…
Jake, our kit is great for a project like yours because you notch the crossmember and towers to get the ride height you want.  The step-by-step instructions will guide you through the whole installation.

Your donor parts (1974-78 Mustang II) will work fine.  Order the strut rod bracket kit #108140 if you plan to use the stock strut rods.  You will also need 2 of the #12202 c-notches to clear the rack bellows.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
How about shipping to the states, is that reasonable?

Thanks,
Jake

Dear Jake…
Sorry I missed that, Jake, ’cause it easy to calculate and, we hope you agree, is quite reasonable.  Freight from our door to your door is 10% of the order, a minimum freight charge of $15 and a maximum charge of $60.00.  The MII kit ships for less than $25.00 (10% of $223.70 = $22.37).

Paul

Another ’48 Chev truck project by Yaril

Yaril (tylerdurben on the H.A.M.B.) is working on his second truck in this series, and called us for the rear four link, panhard kit, and some air bag brackets.  This is another great build – follow along!

Click here to check out the build on the H.A.M.B.

Dear Welder Series… MII air ride?

Dear Welder Series…
I am starting on a project to build a 1952 Chevy 2 door deluxe into a mild street rod/driver.  I presently have it stripped down to the frame and plan on using your triangulated 4 link in the rear.  I have a 2002 S-10 rear end that I will be using.  This end seems pretty straight forward.  Todays 2 3/4″ adapter blog post was right on time.

I will be using some form of IFS in the front.

I have 2 questions for you.

1.  In all the info on the web I have not seen your IFS used with air bags.  Has this ever been done?

2.  If it has been done what kit was used and what parts would be different to use air suspension on the front, shock mounts being an issue ?

Thanks.

Stew.

Dear Stew…
Stew, our conventional Mustang II kit, WS14340, can be used with RideTech’s air springs, arms, and shocks.  The kits from both companies can be used “as-is”.

Here are some links:
http://www.ridetech.com/shop/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=5478
https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ws14540/

Thanks for considering Welder Series’ parts for your project.

Paul Horton