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July Photo Sharing Winner

Congrats, Steve! There’s $50 sitting on your account here at Welder Series for your next order. Steve used some brackets to put together a rear four link kit for his ’34 pickup. He did the lower bars first, and was planning to order some more parts for the uppers. This should help out!

I use www.random.org to decide the winner, because computers never make mistakes.

Parts In Pictures:
WS21852, axle bracket kit.
218502, formed frame bracket.

Dear Welder Series… small vs. big bushings

Dear Welder Series…
I’m planning on buying one of your triangulated four-link kits and had a question. I’m wondering what would be the reason for choosing a large bushing kit over the standard bushing kit? Is one better than the other? I’m also wanting to take advantage of the free shipping. Thanks for any help, Brian

Dear Brian…
Brian, there are several differences when comparing the standard and large bushing kits:

The adjuster threads in the standard kit are 5/8-18. They are 3/4-16 in the large bushing kit.
The urethane bushing outer tubes, in the standard kit, are 1-3/8″ o.d. x 11 ga (about 1/8″) wall thickness. The large bushing kit outer tubes are 1-5/8″ o.d. x 3/16″ wall.
The urethane bushings in the standard kit are 1-3/8″ wide. They are 1-3/4″ wide in the large bushing kit.
The seamless tubing used to make the bars in the standard kit is 1″ o.d. x .219″ wall thickness. The large bushing kit tubing is 1″ o.d. x .188 wall. This is thinner but still plenty strong enough. The size is mainly to accommodate the tap hole size.
The standard kit costs $15.00 less than the large bushing kit.

All of our personal cars have used the standard bushing kits, but we haven’t built a personal car since introducing the large bushing kits. We sell more large bushing kits than standard kits and I’ll probably use the large bushing one on my next project just because they are stronger, look more “heavy-duty”, and don’t cost much more. We keep the standard bushing kits in our product line because they are a proven part and builders keep buying them.

Good question! Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

1966 Mustang Rear Four Link

Dear Welder Series…
I have a 66 mustang that needs a new rear suspension. I am interested in your 4-link rear upgrade. Can you please tell me what I would need to purchase from you to complete this conversion?
Thanks,
David

Dear David…
David, you might also want to get the coil-over bolt kit. The sway bar would be another good part to use. If you will use the parallel rear 4-link, use a rear Panhard kit.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… S10 four link?

Dear Welder Series…
Good morning, I want to install a 4-link kit on my 95 S-10. I was hoping you could recommend a kit. If you could tell me what else I would need like the Panhard bar the bag brackets and whatever else you would recommend I would greatly appreciate this.

 

Thank you,
John

Dear John…
John, our WS318500 (ready-to-weld) or 318500 (welded) kits would be ideal for this job.  I’d also suggest the (WS)2184 rear Panhard bar kit if you’re thinking of a parallel four link kit.  The 474208 frame brackets and 21870 axle brackets will look after the air bags if you are using the F9000 or similar.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… 01 Chevy truck

Dear Welder Series…
To whom it may concern,
I am getting ready to build a pre runner style truck out of a 2001 Chevy half ton pickup. Its and extended cab short bed two wheel drive. I was planning on running King coil overs in all four corners. Do you happen to have or would you be able to fab a complete weld or bolt on 4 link kit. I like the triangulated design but the pictures on your sight the rods them selves look to short if you can build something like that can you please put a quote together and email me back and if not maybe you might know who is able to do it thank you very much.

Dear Tyler…
There are some drawings that show where the bars mount at https://www.welderseries.com/instructions/ws21850/ws21850_dwgs.htm .  If this length doesn’t work for you, we can supply custom length bars.  The frame mounts go in the same place for both our 218500 and 318500 kits.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… four link options

Dear Welder Series…
Hello,
I have a 1973 dodge D100 pick up that I’ve been building for a road and strip truck. I was wondering which kit i need to take this project to the next level. I have a built 318 with a MP235 5speed transmission. The rear end is an 8.75 locker with 355 gears. This truck runs great now, but the rear end gets a lot of hop and the body roll is terrible! I didn’t want to tie up your phone line with a lot of questions rite now. I am planning to tear into this after Christmas and plan to order rear 4 link in a couple of days. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated!
Thank You,
Kevin

Dear Kevin…
Kevin, the parallel and the triangulated 4-link are good street systems, but not good drag strip suspensions.  They don’t provide any leverage to transfer weight to the rear tires.  They probably would eliminate the wheel hop, though.  Our Pro/Street rear 4-link would let you run the bars parallel for the street and adjust them to give more traction at the drag strip.  The bars are shorter than the parallel kit, so the ride won’t be as good.  Some builders use our urethane bushings on the street and switch to spherical rod ends (“Heims”) for the track.  The spherical rod ends are narrower than the urethane bushed ends, so you will need spacers to make up the difference.

Our rear sway bar kit would help with the body roll issue.

Thanks for considering Welder Series’ parts.

Paul Horton