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Dear Welder Series…
I need to know if your universe triangulated or 4 link parallel would work on my 1969 F-100. I wanted to move from the leaf spring to coil over shock system and reduced ride height.
Fred
Dear Fred…
Fred, the installation sheets are at the bottom of the description in the web store. The dimensions should help you to see any areas that might be a problem. Here are links to the two kits:
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-parallel-universal
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/
I think either kit will work fine on your Ford. Please ask again if you have other questions.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m after a rear 4 link for my 65 mustang for general road use, no racing, do you have a setup similar to [the other guys] setups & if so prices & cost of shipping to California 90200, USA, unless you good rates to New Zealand, if you can help I’ll phone you.
thanks Rob.
Dear Rob…
Rob, Welder Series has a parallel and a triangulated rear 4-link. Both kits are “universal”, meaning they can be used in a wide range of applications, but they require modifications (mainly bar length) to use in your Mustang.
The kits are at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/ and http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-parallel-universal/ . The parallel kit needs a Panhard bar, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-universal-rear/ .
Freight cost to California would be 10% of the order total with a minimum charge of $15 and a maximum charge of $60.00. All of our prices are in Canadian Dollars. We can ship to New Zealand by Parcel Post and would quote a rate based on what you would like to order.
We are working hard at getting the website picture issues resolved.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
I love your website. I have a 1978 trans am I am building a 4 link for. It weighs aprox 3800 lbs and around 500 hp. I’m not looking to drag race or auto cross the car, but I do have air ride shock waves. I was looking at your big bushing triangulated but all I need are the axle mounts, bars, bushings, and some upper shock mounts. I wouldn’t need the axle tabs or either frame mounts. The upper bars are around 9.25 inches eye to eye and the lower are 24.5 inches eye to eye.
Please let me know what my best option would be.
thank you Brad
Dear Welder Series…
Hi guys, just read the instructions for the rear triangle 4-link and just wondering, are the upper and lower bars supposed to end up parallel with one another? It appears that they should be by looking at your drawing but its noted stated specifically.
Thanks,
Dave
Dear Dave…
Hi, Dave. The triangulated rear 4-link bars are not parallel when viewed from the side. The front of the lower bar is about 1/2″ higher than the rear. The front of the upper bar is about 7/8″ lower than the rear. We have found that there is a fair bit of tolerance for the position of the frame mounts, but the instructions are the “best” way to install them.
Good question.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I am restoring a 1971 mustang coupe. I would like to add a 4-link rear suspension and a coil over front suspension.
Could you make some recommendations on which products I would need to purchase from you. This will be a
weekend driver with a stock 351w, a 9 inch rear end and T5 transmission. Thanks.
Dear Danny…
This will be a great cruiser, Danny. Use our 60″ Mustang II kit, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ws14540/ or http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/mustang-ii-crossmember-for-coil-springs-copy/ .
Engine mounts could be http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ford-motor-mounts-rubber-insulated/ or http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ford-motor-mounts-urethane-insulated/ .
For a Pro/Street rear 4-link kit go to http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-kit-prostreet/ . A diagonal link will be necessary for this set-up. We can fix you up with this after the 4-link is installed. Some specific dimensions are required to make the bar the right length.
For a parallel 4-link go to http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-parallel-universal/ . A Panhard kit is necessary to keep the frame centered above the rear end. Check them at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-universal-rear/ and http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-8-or-9-ford-rear-end/ .
We have a triangulated rear 4-link, too. It’s at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/ .
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hi there, just wondering if you make a specific rear 4 link kit, set up for air bags, for a ’57 GMC long box. I’m also not sure which way to go on the triangulated or parallel scenario. if you have any input there it would be appreciated. do your kits weld brackets to the frame or bolt on? the truck will be a daily driver with a gm 5.3-4L60E for power and a rear diff from an S10 truck. not going to the track or doing burnouts all the time, just looking for an awesome smooth ride and dependability. also, would you recommend air bags or shockwave struts (for the same reason, ride and dependability). I will tow a boat with this truck on occasion. would the air bags be in front of the diff or behind the diff? if you have pics that would be great. I can weld the stuff myself, but if you could price the parts both ways and include shipping to Calgary Ab that would be great.
thanks, Dennis
Dear Dennis…
Dennis, the triangulated rear 4-link costs less than the parallel by the amount of the Panhard kit. The parallel kit with a Panhard bar is easier to adjust to center the frame left-to-right, to adjust the wheelbase, and to adjust the pinion angle. When the Panhard is installed with the bushing bolts both the same height from the ground, there is very little side-to-side movement through normal suspension travel. I have built and driven on both suspensions and couldn’t tell the difference.
We could do a rear kit (triangulated or parallel) without the coil-over bolt support blocks in the axle brackets. Those brackets could then be used as shock mounts. The air bags could be mounted from 21870 and 474208 brackets.
The ShockWaves use adjustable shocks and the whole package is easy to mount. The shocks are the key to ride quality. The air pressure will support the load.
All of our kits require welding to the frame or axle.
I like mounting the bags or ShockWaves behind the axle. I feel this gives better suspension control.
We don’t sell ShockWaves or other air bags.
Here are some part numbers and links to our web store. You can plug them into the order form (cart) to get totals for the various combinations. The store will calculate the shipping for the different groups of parts. If you send the part numbers you’d like, I can do a quote for you if you would rather not use the store.
Triangulated and parallel 4-link kits cost the same.
Triangulated 4-link (This is the “large bushing” kit. It is only $15 more than the regular kit and is much more popular.)
Parallel 4 link (Again, the large bushing kit)
Rear Panhard kit
Air spring axle bracket (2 required)
Air spring frame bracket (2 required)
The support blocks can be deducted if you use the above axle and frame brackets, but I don’t know if the store will let you put in a negative quantity. We can do it on your actual order, though.
I hope this helps you get closer to actual “garage work” making sparks.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul and Dorothy. Can I convert from a cross over panhard set up frame to axle housing running parallel. I want to remove it as it is too tight and banging to a triangulated set up. This is on a regular 4 link set up. Do you have a kit that would use a triangulated bar on the 4 link?
Hope you are staying well. Happy new year
Dear Gord…
Gord, here are some parts that would make the conversion from a parallel 4-link with a Panhard to a triangulated set-up:
Use the lower bars and brackets as-is.
Upper brackets (driver & pass sides): https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/frame-bracket-formed/
Axle bracket kit: https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/axle-bracket-kit-rear-triangulated-4-link/
Bars (2 pcs): https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/bars-1-od/
Adjusters (2 pcs): https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/adjuster-kits/
Urethane bushings (4 pcs): https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/urethane-bushing-kits/
Hardware: We can supply all of this that’s required.
The adjusters and bars are available with the urethane bushing tube welded on or you can weld it yourself. If you will do the welding, the tubes have to be added to the list above (4 pcs): https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/urethane-bushing-outer-sleeve/
The parts will cost about $200.00.
What are you working on? (I might change some of the parts once I know the vehicle.)
Happy New Year to you, too!
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul, I talked to you about my ’56 Studebaker P. U. and a front end coilover cross member kit with the brake caliper bracket kit, 5 on 4 1/2″ bolt circle. I am also considering welding a triangulated four link kit in the rear of the truck. If you could send the URL ‘S you talked about to make ordering and viewing the products easier that would be great. Thank you for taking the time to help me out, Santo.
Dear Santo…
Thanks for this note, Santo. Here are some url’s for front and rear suspension parts.
Mustang II kit for stock, Mustang II-style springs and shocks or QA1 Mustang II (MII) coil-overs (http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/drag-and-street/shocks-and-struts/stock-mount-shocks-and-struts/mustang-ii-shocks-and-pro-coil-system.html): http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ws14540/ (Note the links as you read down this page.)
Mustang II kit for conventional coil-overs: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/mustang-ii-crossmember-for-coil-springs-copy/ Scroll down this page to see the difference in coil-over style from the above kit.
Brake kit for Granada rotors/GM calipers on MII spindles: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/mustang-ii-brake-kit-for-granada-rotors/
Triangulated rear 4-link kits: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/
Please call if you have any questions.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hello,
I have a 1973 dodge D100 pick up that I’ve been building for a road and strip truck. I was wondering which kit i need to take this project to the next level. I have a built 318 with a MP235 5speed transmission. The rear end is an 8.75 locker with 355 gears. This truck runs great now, but the rear end gets a lot of hop and the body roll is terrible! I didn’t want to tie up your phone line with a lot of questions rite now. I am planning to tear into this after Christmas and plan to order rear 4 link in a couple of days. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated!
Thank You,
Kevin
Dear Kevin…
Kevin, the parallel and the triangulated 4-link are good street systems, but not good drag strip suspensions. They don’t provide any leverage to transfer weight to the rear tires. They probably would eliminate the wheel hop, though. Our Pro/Street rear 4-link would let you run the bars parallel for the street and adjust them to give more traction at the drag strip. The bars are shorter than the parallel kit, so the ride won’t be as good. Some builders use our urethane bushings on the street and switch to spherical rod ends (“Heims”) for the track. The spherical rod ends are narrower than the urethane bushed ends, so you will need spacers to make up the difference.
Our rear sway bar kit would help with the body roll issue.
Thanks for considering Welder Series’ parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1956 Chev truck and want to put a 4 link in the back. I was thinking of a triangulated one. Would that work? The frame is 34 inches wide. Or should I use a parallel 4 bar and a panhard bar and which kit # do you recommend? thank you Dave
Dear Dave…
Dave, this is a good question… There are several considerations when choosing a rear suspension system.
An important one is frame width.
A typical triangulated rear 4-link has the upper bars mounting off of the frame boxing plates and angling back to each side of the differential housing. The narrower the frame, the less triangulation is possible unless the upper bars get shorter. Shorter upper bars cause greater pinion angle change. The upper bars could be angled from wide apart on the axle tubes to close together off of a crossmember to get more triangulation.
A parallel 4-link and Panhard bar is not as sensitive to frame width. The bars should be mounted as wide apart as practical to stabilize the rear end.
The triangulated system requires more precise installation. It costs less because there is no Panhard kit.
The parallel 4-link/Panhard system allows adjustment in any direction with a minimal effect on other settings.
Both systems can cause problems with exhaust routing.
I recommend the parallel kit because it’s easier to install and easier to set up.
Thanks for writing. I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton
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