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Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m looking to do a parallel 4 bar setup on my 1956 Buick. It has the X-frame that looks exactly like what you have pictured here.
I did some measurements and I think I need bars of length between 36-38″ Does this seem too long? How long were the bars in that above picture?
Thanks
Michael
Dear Michael…
Michael, this is a local car and the bars were standard length, about 25″ c-c. We can make custom bars for you if you need them. 36″ is getting long but is still do-able.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Ok, I will have to measure again maybe I can mount them before the cut outs for the exhaust instead. Also I’m a HAMB Alliance member and noticed you offer a discount, how would I go about applying that when I place the order?
I did some re-measuring. I think I only need 30″ bars. Is it possible to get the parallel kit in welded fashion but have the frame brackets either left un-welded, or welded at an angle since I’ll be mounting it to an x-frame like you have in the picture on the blog? Also how can I go about ordering it this custom way, by phone?
Dear Michael…
Michael, a quote is attached for the rear 4-link as I think you want it. It starts as a ready-to-weld kit. This will let you weld the frame brackets the way you want them. It also means you will have to weld the coil-over bolt support blocks in the rear axle brackets. This is a small job. We have deducted the standard bars and adjusters and quoted welded, custom-length bars and welded adjusters. Obviously, we have to get together on the bar length. The tubes on the bars and adjusters would be welded at 90 degrees to the bar axis. I have a feeling that the Buick in the picture got angled adjusters, but we don’t do them in the large format. (We could, as a special order, if you give us the angle you want.)
What will you do for a Panhard bar?
The other thing we need is your Alliance name, please. I have shown the discount on the quote, but this has to be confirmed.
Thanks for your interest in Welder Series parts for your project.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1951 Chevrolet truck 1/2 ton putting a 2002 Chevy S10 4×4 Blazer 8.5 ring gear rear w/disc brakes in. I want to use the 4 link system, which one of yours will work easiest and best?
Thank you!
Dear Don…
Don, the decision regarding a parallel or a triangulated rear 4-link is somewhat philosophical. Here is my explanation:
Both kits do a good job of locating the rear end, holding it in place, and letting the suspension work.
The triangulated kit costs less than the parallel kit because a Panhard bar is not required.
The parallel kit does require a Panhard kit (about $100.00). The parallel kit is easier to adjust for squaring the rear axle to the frame center line, and centering the frame left-to-right.
The Panhard bar does move the frame left-to-right as the frame goes up and down, but if a straight Panhard bar is installed level, this amount is insignificant (about 1/8″ with a 19″ bar) for normal suspension travel.
I hope this helps you decide. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I have a few questions on the parallel rear 4 link kits. Wondering what the measurement is between the two bars, C-C. Also what size tubing is used? I would like 1″ or 1 1/4″ if possible.
I have purchased and installed the notch kit with great results, thank you for offering these products at affordable prices.
Dan
Dear Dan…
Dan, the bars on the parallel kit are 5-1/2″ c-c. They are 1″ diameter seamless tubing with a 3/16″ wall thickness.
Thanks for your order and support.
Dear Welder Series…
I need to know if your universe triangulated or 4 link parallel would work on my 1969 F-100. I wanted to move from the leaf spring to coil over shock system and reduced ride height.
Fred
Dear Fred…
Fred, the installation sheets are at the bottom of the description in the web store. The dimensions should help you to see any areas that might be a problem. Here are links to the two kits:
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-parallel-universal
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/
I think either kit will work fine on your Ford. Please ask again if you have other questions.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m after a rear 4 link for my 65 mustang for general road use, no racing, do you have a setup similar to [the other guys] setups & if so prices & cost of shipping to California 90200, USA, unless you good rates to New Zealand, if you can help I’ll phone you.
thanks Rob.
Dear Rob…
Rob, Welder Series has a parallel and a triangulated rear 4-link. Both kits are “universal”, meaning they can be used in a wide range of applications, but they require modifications (mainly bar length) to use in your Mustang.
The kits are at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/ and http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-parallel-universal/ . The parallel kit needs a Panhard bar, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-universal-rear/ .
Freight cost to California would be 10% of the order total with a minimum charge of $15 and a maximum charge of $60.00. All of our prices are in Canadian Dollars. We can ship to New Zealand by Parcel Post and would quote a rate based on what you would like to order.
We are working hard at getting the website picture issues resolved.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Hello;
I was wondering if your 4 Link set up will work with a Dana 70 rear end?
I’m building a Hot Rod ’39 Chevy Truck. I will be using your Mustang II front system and was hoping that your 4 link will work. I would order them at the same time if it will work. It has a 1 & 1/2 ton frame.
Thanks
Bruce
Dear Bruce…
The rear 4-link kits will be fine, Bruce. The axle brackets are made for 3″ diameter tubes, but can be opened up if your tubes are the larger 3-1/2″ diameter.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for you truck.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I am restoring a 1971 mustang coupe. I would like to add a 4-link rear suspension and a coil over front suspension.
Could you make some recommendations on which products I would need to purchase from you. This will be a
weekend driver with a stock 351w, a 9 inch rear end and T5 transmission. Thanks.
Dear Danny…
This will be a great cruiser, Danny. Use our 60″ Mustang II kit, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ws14540/ or http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/mustang-ii-crossmember-for-coil-springs-copy/ .
Engine mounts could be http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ford-motor-mounts-rubber-insulated/ or http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ford-motor-mounts-urethane-insulated/ .
For a Pro/Street rear 4-link kit go to http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-kit-prostreet/ . A diagonal link will be necessary for this set-up. We can fix you up with this after the 4-link is installed. Some specific dimensions are required to make the bar the right length.
For a parallel 4-link go to http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-parallel-universal/ . A Panhard kit is necessary to keep the frame centered above the rear end. Check them at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-universal-rear/ and http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-8-or-9-ford-rear-end/ .
We have a triangulated rear 4-link, too. It’s at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/ .
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Yaril (tylerdurben on the H.A.M.B.) is working on his second truck in this series, and called us for the rear four link, panhard kit, and some air bag brackets. This is another great build – follow along!
Click here to check out the build on the H.A.M.B.
FYI
Our big bushing four link kits are getting pretty popular! So popular, in fact, that they outsold our standard bushing kits for the past 30 days or so. With 3/4-16 threaded adjusters instead of 5/8-18 and 1-3/4″ wide bushings instead of about 1-3/8″, they’re a bit beefier, but otherwise the same.
Large adjuster:
Standard adjuster:
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