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Dear Welder Series…
I presently have a car that uses Armstrong front shocks and I want to replace the front suspension with your Mustang II Crossmember Kit. The problem is the frame is tubular and very narrow. The front tread is 45 1/2 inch. Can your kit be made to work? Thanks Frank
Dear Frank…
Frank, Maval Mfg can make a Mustang II rack up to 9″ narrower than stock. This would get the track width down to 47-1/2″ with stock (length) upper and lower arms and stock, 4-bolt rotors. Aftermarket brake kits often move the wheel mounting face of the rotors outboard or inboard, changing the track width. Shorter upper and lower arms will narrow the track width. I’ve heard that there are arms 1″ shorter than stock. This would get you in the 45-1/2″ range by cutting a portion out of the middle of our crossmember.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 49 dodge 4 door sedan that I would like to install a modern front suspension. Is there a set up that can be used? It looks like a person would have to remove the origional crossmember A arm set up and almost build a front clip. Any info would be helpful.
Thank you
Dear Chuck…
Chuck, you have this pictured correctly. There are some pictures on our website showing how builders have dealt with frames like yours. Check out http://www.welderseries.com/blog/category/mustang-ii-installed-pics/ .
Dear Welder Series…
Mr.Horton, looking at the pictures of the cross member installation in the 36 Dodge Humpback, I do not see (any) modifications to the hump in the frame. Is your cross member ready to install without modifications?
I have seen many pictures where the hump is taken out of the frame on other builds. I want to leave the frame in my sedan factory, without removing the hump. Also, I want to lower the car, but not enough to drag. Will your crossmember drop it enough or will I need to change the spindles to a 2″ drop also. Thank you!
Dear Tommy…
Thanks for asking, Tommy. Here is a photo showing the humpback ready to drive.
Most people do take the hump out of the front frame section. Grant Schwartz did this frame. (http://www.schwartzwelding.com/gallery/trucks/03.html) Those are dropped spindles on the Horton Hot Rod Parts humpback.
I hope this helps with your planning.
Dear Welder Series…
Hey guys I have 2 1950 ford shoeboxes that need IFS, disc brakes, power steering and airbags. What do ya have?? That’s not gonna break the bank. But still be great fit quality and high mileage capable??
Ok well I realize that’s a tall order so you can kinda throw out the not breaking the bank part. Don’t make me have to sell on just to finish the other!!! lol
Dear Esteban…
Esteban, the “break the bank” part will depend a lot on the time, talent,
resources (access to tools), and sources (access to parts) that you bring to
the project. If you are up for reworking the front frame area, our Mustang II
is ideal. Out back, our rear 4-link kits and sway bar would help you get the
job done. Here are some links:
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/category/mustang-ii-installed-pics/
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/category/suspension/front-suspension/mustang-ii-crossmember-kits/
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-parallel-universal/
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-universal-rear/
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Can I buy just the lower MII crossmember?
Dear Gary…
You sure can, Gary! All Welder Series parts are available individually. Click here to see the Mustang II crossmember plates separately. The various widths are there. They are all in stock.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m looking at your mustang II crossmember kit, and I’m wondering if it would be appropriate for a 54 Chevy that I want to bag and have lay on the ground. Can I get it low
enough with your cross member, or would I need to look at Z-ing the frame?
I’ve got a donor Mustang II that I’ll be getting the arms and whatnot off of to use for this project.
Also, how is shipping to the states? Is it reasonable, or prohibitively expensive?
Thanks,
Jake
Dear Jake…
Jake, our kit is great for a project like yours because you notch the crossmember and towers to get the ride height you want. The step-by-step instructions will guide you through the whole installation.
Your donor parts (1974-78 Mustang II) will work fine. Order the strut rod bracket kit #108140 if you plan to use the stock strut rods. You will also need 2 of the #12202 c-notches to clear the rack bellows.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
How about shipping to the states, is that reasonable?
Thanks,
Jake
Dear Jake…
Sorry I missed that, Jake, ’cause it easy to calculate and, we hope you agree, is quite reasonable. Freight from our door to your door is 10% of the order, a minimum freight charge of $15 and a maximum charge of $60.00. The MII kit ships for less than $25.00 (10% of $223.70 = $22.37).
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul, I talked to you about my ’56 Studebaker P. U. and a front end coilover cross member kit with the brake caliper bracket kit, 5 on 4 1/2″ bolt circle. I am also considering welding a triangulated four link kit in the rear of the truck. If you could send the URL ‘S you talked about to make ordering and viewing the products easier that would be great. Thank you for taking the time to help me out, Santo.
Dear Santo…
Thanks for this note, Santo. Here are some url’s for front and rear suspension parts.
Mustang II kit for stock, Mustang II-style springs and shocks or QA1 Mustang II (MII) coil-overs (http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/drag-and-street/shocks-and-struts/stock-mount-shocks-and-struts/mustang-ii-shocks-and-pro-coil-system.html): http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ws14540/ (Note the links as you read down this page.)
Mustang II kit for conventional coil-overs: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/mustang-ii-crossmember-for-coil-springs-copy/ Scroll down this page to see the difference in coil-over style from the above kit.
Brake kit for Granada rotors/GM calipers on MII spindles: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/mustang-ii-brake-kit-for-granada-rotors/
Triangulated rear 4-link kits: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/
Please call if you have any questions.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I’m inquiring about the Mustang II crossmember kits. A couple of questions specifically related to the 56″ track width. What is the minimum and maximum frame width measured on the inside? When using the 56″ crossmember do I purchase a narrower rack and pinion?
Thanks in advance for your response. I first saw your items used on the SPEED channel. Great stuff. Can’t wait to do business.
Ken
Dear Ken…
Ken, the min/max frame width depends on the height of the frame relative to the spindle height. The 56″ crossmember is 30″ wide. The inner edge is 25″ at the top and 19″ at the bottom. The top is 3″ above spindle height.
If your frame is 30″ wide, the coil spring might touch the upper outside corner of the frame, again depending on the ride height. Builders put a small relief in the frame for clearance. (’42-48 Fords are an example.)
All of our kits use stock MII or ’79 and newer T-bird power racks. Use our spacer kit to put the T-bird rack axis in the correct spot.
Thanks for the questions.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Paul, I finished making up my new 2X3 front frame rails. They are 29″ from outside to outside. They are also parallel. Here is my question: I located what I would like as my spindle height and came up with approximately 1/2″ to 3/4″ from the top of the frame rails. Is this going to work or do I have to run drop spindles. I really don’t want to run drop spindles. I need to use the 56″ crossmember as planned. Let me know. I plan to order next week. Thanks again for all your help. Also I plan to air bag the front end to drop it on the ground at shows.
Dear Ken…
Ken, with stock spindles, the top of the rack bellows (the rubber boots at each end of the rack) will be about 3/8″ lower than the spindle height. With stock spindles, you will have to c-notch about 2″ up from the bottom of the frame. With dropped spindles, you might not have to c-notch at all.
I hope this helps with your spindle decision.
Paul
We have had quite a few questions about installing our Mustang II kit in cars that don’t lend themselves well to a conversion. Sometimes “modifying the frame rails” is necessary. What exactly do we mean by that?
I thought I’d put together some pictures that show a few frames that have been modified to accept a Mustang II crossmember. If you have any questions about your frame or any of our parts, please email or call toll-free: 1-888-648-2150.
 This Oldsmobile frame has been bottlenecked to accept our Mustang II crossmember.  The '57 Oldsmobile has received a similar treatment, but the builder used larger diameter tubing straight forward from the firewall.  You can see the spring clearance notch in the frame rail in this picture of the finished '57 Olds.  Here is a Welder Series Mustang II in a 1978 Volvo. Extra material was 'wrapped' around the existing front rails of the unibody car.  A '57 Ford frame has the springs mounted inside the frame rails.  The '57 has been cleaned up and 2x4 tubing was used to mount our MII. If you’ve put our Mustang II kit in something “weird”, please send us some pictures!
Dear Welder Series…
Mike @ JakesRakes wrote:
I’m doing a 52 Crosley wanting to put a mustang front inside. There are only 45 inches inside fenders any suggestions can we do a MII front or can you think of small car I can graft a front onto? I can go straight axle but a rack would be better thanks
Dear Mike…
The narrowest that a Mustang II can be made, with a shortened stock-type rack, is 47″ from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface. If a V8 is being installed, there could be serious interference with the exhaust and steering.
But this is a neat project!
Paul Horton
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