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Rear Four Link Kit – Triangulated

61 comments to Rear Four Link Kit – Triangulated

  • FRANCIS VIDRINE

    DO YOU HAVE A TRIANGULATED 4 BAR FOR 1952 CHEVY TRUCK

  • Charlie Larsen

    I’m looking to install a triangulated 4-link on my 51 chevy 3100 street rod project using a GM 12-bolt posi-rear out of a 71 monte carlo. Can your kit connect the upper bars to the dog ears on the 12-bolt instead of welding your upper axle tabs?

  • Lee

    Can you please tell me the length of the upper and lower arms, how far are the threaded, Can much could i shorten them.
    . The radius cuts – will they fit a ford 9”, and does the kit have grease nipples or any kind of lubing setup to stop squeaking? Thanks

    • DW

      Lee, the upper arms are about 18″ c-c, the lowers about 25″. The thread is about 2″ deep. The brackets are made to fit a 3″ diameter tube. There is no provision for lubricating the urethane bushings. We suggest trying a product called SilGlide.

      Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

      Paul Horton

  • Esau

    Will your triangulated 4 link work with your step notch on a 97 s10 frame?

  • Mike

    Hi DW,
    Love this site/store!
    I’m looking at your 4-link and was wondering what exactly comes unwelded if I order it like that? I’m assuming it’s just the frame brackets so you can mount them in various ways.

    • DW

      Hi Mike, thanks for your comment. The unwelded kit hasn’t been touched by a welder- the frame brackets, like you say, are unwelded, as are the adjusters, bars, and axle bracket support blocks.

      Thanks again, please let us know if you have any more questions.
      DW Horton

  • Todd albert

    I’m putting a four link in a 1972 f 100.do you have to notch the frame 3 inches to get the lower bars level with the ground.do you have magazine,I still have to upgrade the front end.thank you

    Todd

  • George

    I am putting a rear end from a 79 Camero in my Model A 4 door. it is a 10 bolt.do you have a trianglated 4 link for this set up ?..I dont want to modify the frame if I dont have to..also will there be a place to hook up coil overs ?

  • Ron Dalton

    Has your triangulated 4 link been used on an Early Ford Econoline (1961-1967)? I am interested in putting a 4 link with a 9″ Ford under my Econoline Pickup.

    Thanks

  • chris

    Can these kits be used for off road rigs?

  • brian

    Hi i am buliding a 1973 chevy c-10 short box i am planing on a ford 9″ would you recommend a triangulated or a parallel fourlink? Also would i be able to pick the parts up from your shop?

  • Lindsay

    Is there enough adjustment on the control arms to change the pinion angle by much.

  • BIGJON

    I have a 2000 explorer that I am working on would this set up work on that frame

    • DW

      Thanks for your note. Sorry, I’m not familiar with that specific frame. I’d check the pictures and dimensions to get an idea of the layout. I suspect it would be fine, but you may need to do some frame modifications.

  • Bill Redfield

    I am in the middle of a chassis swap (2000 S-10 for the 1951 GMC chassis) and trying to look at options for both the rear end and front end suspension. I do not wish to stay with the leaf springs and interested in the triangle four bar set up with the possibility of air bags and the adjustable coil over for the front end. Someone mentioned that I should consider the mustang rack pinion steering since I have a 327 Chevy Impala Motor and a 350 Turbo transmission.

    I can and will use all the advise given so please feel free.

  • Bill Redfield

    Also, what difference would I realize between the welded versus the un-welded – easier to fit the un-welded to the frame because freedom to adjust accordingly and less adjustment with the already welded? I realize the already welded makes it easier to manage or handle but sometimes does not fit as nicely or neatly

  • Damon

    Looking to put one of your triangulated kits under my 67 nova. Do you have a bracket that will work off of a 2×3 crossmember. That would help me greatly!!

  • Mike

    Will this kit work on to replace the leafs on a 68 Camaro?

    • DW

      Hi Mike, this isn’t a direct replacement kit but it will work with some modifications. You may have to shorten the upper bars, for instance. If you’re comfortable with chassis work, you’ll be fine.

      Thanks
      dw

  • Keith

    I have a Chris Alston Chassisworks Canted rear frame part # 7154. I can’t afford the 4link kit from them and I was wondering what yall have to help me finish the rear end. I would need the links and brackets to mount to the housing.

  • Jeff Bennett

    Hi , I have a 56 chevy 210 sedan and was wondering if this kit would worn it for sure. Looking to get rid of the leaf spring set up/ and do the tri-angler and coil overs.

  • roger

    i mocked up your upper four link bars on a 1958 chevy apache frame using the ears on the 8.8 rear end. the inside of the frame width is 29″ inches wide and the upper bars would be about 10″ long to line up straight with the ears. your instructions say the geometry of the upper bars should attach to the frame approximately 15″ infront of the centerline of the axle tube. using the ears on the 8.8 wouldn’t be even close to connecting to the frame at 15″ in front of the axle tube so using the ears doesn’t seem right. should I weld brackets on the axle tubes to make the gyometry work as per the instructions and abandon connecting to the ears on the 8.8?

    • DW

      I agree with you that the 10″ bar would be very short. Another way builders have dealt with narrow frames is by mounting the upper bars on the axle tubes just inside the frame rails. Angle the bars towards the center of the frame (over the driveshaft) and install a crossmember that will let you notch the upper bar “frame” brackets in the right spot. This is easy to do with our standard triangulated kit.

      I believe you are suggesting this in your last sentence. If you want to exchange your upper bar parts, let us know. We can work it out.

      Paul Horton

  • David mobley

    Can I have 3 degree drop to the axel on the lower bar how it or does it has to be level I really don’t want notch my frame then I’ll have 5 inches of travel
    Thank u David 53 3100 chevy truck

  • rcrown

    I originally own your four link universal kit, nice constructions on the rods. Anyways, the car its going into the upper bars need to be shorter to fit. How do you recommend me to shorten the rods? is there a particular tap i should use if cutting is required on the rods?
    Thank you
    Ron

  • Wes lee

    I’m building a 1935 international pick up hot rod. I’ve put a 2001 expedition rear end under and wonder if your universal 4bar link kit will work for me. Or can you make me some custom length bars. What might that cost. I can send pictures so you can see what I am looking to try to do. Thanks for any help you can provide.

    • DW

      Hi Wes, sorry for the delay getting back to you. Does your rear end have the ears on top of the pinion for the upper bars? If so, then our 8.8 four link will work well. The standard bar lengths should be fine. If I’m not too late, feel free to send some pictures through.

      Thanks
      DW

  • Damian

    I have a 73 gremlin that i am dropping a chevy 355 and turbo 400 tranny into. I have a narrowed 9 inch ford with 4.11 s ready to be mounted under the car. Would it be possible to use one of your kits and if so which one would you reccomend? The triangulated or parallel??? Thanks so much!!

    • There are advantages to each kit, Damian. The parallel kit is easier to install and adjust. The triangulated kit is less costly because it doesn’t require a Panhard bar. Either one will be fine in your Gremlin.

      Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
      Paul Horton

  • Gene

    Will this kit fit my 66 c-10?

  • doug

    Hi .I have a 73 challenger that I would like to 4link the rear.do you have a kit and what is the cost

    • DW

      Hi Doug, thanks for your note. We don’t have a kit designed specifically for your Challenger, but the triangulated kit has been used on cars like yours with success.
      DW Horton

  • Martin Groth

    I’m putting a triangler 4 link in 68 firebird. Can I put the upper bars to the rear of the car?

  • Mike Jensen

    I have a 59 apache. Using explorer 8.8 rear but it does not have the upper link mounts on the axle. I’ll be welding links to the axle tubes. I saw earlier on this page u suggest uppers meeting at center on a crossmember. Will your standard kit work for me?
    Thanks

    • DW

      Thanks for your question. The standard kit is used in both cases; whether or not you run the upper bars to the center of the rails or to the rails doesn’t change the kit. You’re correct; I’d just get the standard triangulated kit.

      Thanks again
      DW Horton

  • Kenneth Malott

    km
    how can you calculate the length of the upper and lower bars so to know that your rear four link will work effectively ? I have a 1956 chevy bel air will use coilovers!

    • DW

      Ken, a triangulated rear 4-link is fairly forgiving if you need to change bar dimensions a bit. Our standard bar lengths will work well in your Chev.

      Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

      Paul Horton

  • If I have a 3 degree down on my lower link – frame to axel
    Where should my top link be
    right now I have it 7 degree down – frame to axel or should it be level for the top link
    I don’t know if that right or not I have 3 inches of travel on my coil over or will that make a diference in how the upper link degree
    53 3100 chevy truck help please thank u David

  • […] to beat this one: Rear Four Link Kit – Triangulated | Welder Series Inc. __________________ Passionate about autocross racing! 1956 F100 Panel "GRACIE" 2007 […]

  • darrin

    hi iam looking to put in a four link in my 65 ss nova with coil overs what kit you recomend

    • DW

      Hi Darrin, thanks for your note. The decision regarding a parallel or a triangulated rear 4-link is somewhat philosophical. Here is my explanation:
      Both kits do a good job of locating the rear end, holding it in place, and letting the suspension work.
      The triangulated kit costs less than the parallel kit because a Panhard bar is not required.
      The parallel kit does require a Panhard kit (about $100.00). The parallel kit is easier to adjust for squaring the rear axle to the frame center line, and centering the frame left-to-right.

      The Panhard bar does move the frame left-to-right as the frame goes up and down, but if a straight Panhard bar is installed level, this amount is insignificant (about 1/8″ with a 19″ bar) for normal suspension travel.

      I hope this helps you decide. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
      Paul Horton

  • Tony

    Im looking to get a 4 link set up in my 55 buick so i can have a open drive line instead of the torque tube.Any way you can direct me to everything i need. Thanks -Tony

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