Rear Four Link Kit – Triangulated

76 comments

  1. Charlie Larsen says:

    I’m looking to install a triangulated 4-link on my 51 chevy 3100 street rod project using a GM 12-bolt posi-rear out of a 71 monte carlo. Can your kit connect the upper bars to the dog ears on the 12-bolt instead of welding your upper axle tabs?

  2. Lee says:

    Can you please tell me the length of the upper and lower arms, how far are the threaded, Can much could i shorten them.
    . The radius cuts – will they fit a ford 9”, and does the kit have grease nipples or any kind of lubing setup to stop squeaking? Thanks

    • DW says:

      Lee, the upper arms are about 18″ c-c, the lowers about 25″. The thread is about 2″ deep. The brackets are made to fit a 3″ diameter tube. There is no provision for lubricating the urethane bushings. We suggest trying a product called SilGlide.

      Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

      Paul Horton

  3. Mike says:

    Hi DW,
    Love this site/store!
    I’m looking at your 4-link and was wondering what exactly comes unwelded if I order it like that? I’m assuming it’s just the frame brackets so you can mount them in various ways.

    • DW says:

      Hi Mike, thanks for your comment. The unwelded kit hasn’t been touched by a welder- the frame brackets, like you say, are unwelded, as are the adjusters, bars, and axle bracket support blocks.

      Thanks again, please let us know if you have any more questions.
      DW Horton

  4. Todd albert says:

    I’m putting a four link in a 1972 f 100.do you have to notch the frame 3 inches to get the lower bars level with the ground.do you have magazine,I still have to upgrade the front end.thank you

    Todd

  5. George says:

    I am putting a rear end from a 79 Camero in my Model A 4 door. it is a 10 bolt.do you have a trianglated 4 link for this set up ?..I dont want to modify the frame if I dont have to..also will there be a place to hook up coil overs ?

  6. Ron Dalton says:

    Has your triangulated 4 link been used on an Early Ford Econoline (1961-1967)? I am interested in putting a 4 link with a 9″ Ford under my Econoline Pickup.

    Thanks

    • DW says:

      Hi Ron, I’m not familiar with anyone using it on an Econoline, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.
      Thanks for your note.

      DW

  7. brian says:

    Hi i am buliding a 1973 chevy c-10 short box i am planing on a ford 9″ would you recommend a triangulated or a parallel fourlink? Also would i be able to pick the parts up from your shop?

    • DW says:

      Thanks for your note. Sorry, I’m not familiar with that specific frame. I’d check the pictures and dimensions to get an idea of the layout. I suspect it would be fine, but you may need to do some frame modifications.

  8. Bill Redfield says:

    I am in the middle of a chassis swap (2000 S-10 for the 1951 GMC chassis) and trying to look at options for both the rear end and front end suspension. I do not wish to stay with the leaf springs and interested in the triangle four bar set up with the possibility of air bags and the adjustable coil over for the front end. Someone mentioned that I should consider the mustang rack pinion steering since I have a 327 Chevy Impala Motor and a 350 Turbo transmission.

    I can and will use all the advise given so please feel free.

  9. Bill Redfield says:

    Also, what difference would I realize between the welded versus the un-welded – easier to fit the un-welded to the frame because freedom to adjust accordingly and less adjustment with the already welded? I realize the already welded makes it easier to manage or handle but sometimes does not fit as nicely or neatly

  10. Damon says:

    Looking to put one of your triangulated kits under my 67 nova. Do you have a bracket that will work off of a 2×3 crossmember. That would help me greatly!!

    • DW says:

      Hi Mike, this isn’t a direct replacement kit but it will work with some modifications. You may have to shorten the upper bars, for instance. If you’re comfortable with chassis work, you’ll be fine.

      Thanks
      dw

  11. Keith says:

    I have a Chris Alston Chassisworks Canted rear frame part # 7154. I can’t afford the 4link kit from them and I was wondering what yall have to help me finish the rear end. I would need the links and brackets to mount to the housing.

    • DW says:

      Hi Keith, we’d be happy to do custom bars for you, along with the brackets. Please give us a call on our toll-free line 1 888 648 2150.

      DW Horton

  12. Jeff Bennett says:

    Hi , I have a 56 chevy 210 sedan and was wondering if this kit would worn it for sure. Looking to get rid of the leaf spring set up/ and do the tri-angler and coil overs.

  13. roger says:

    i mocked up your upper four link bars on a 1958 chevy apache frame using the ears on the 8.8 rear end. the inside of the frame width is 29″ inches wide and the upper bars would be about 10″ long to line up straight with the ears. your instructions say the geometry of the upper bars should attach to the frame approximately 15″ infront of the centerline of the axle tube. using the ears on the 8.8 wouldn’t be even close to connecting to the frame at 15″ in front of the axle tube so using the ears doesn’t seem right. should I weld brackets on the axle tubes to make the gyometry work as per the instructions and abandon connecting to the ears on the 8.8?

    • DW says:

      I agree with you that the 10″ bar would be very short. Another way builders have dealt with narrow frames is by mounting the upper bars on the axle tubes just inside the frame rails. Angle the bars towards the center of the frame (over the driveshaft) and install a crossmember that will let you notch the upper bar “frame” brackets in the right spot. This is easy to do with our standard triangulated kit.

      I believe you are suggesting this in your last sentence. If you want to exchange your upper bar parts, let us know. We can work it out.

      Paul Horton

  14. David mobley says:

    Can I have 3 degree drop to the axel on the lower bar how it or does it has to be level I really don’t want notch my frame then I’ll have 5 inches of travel
    Thank u David 53 3100 chevy truck

  15. rcrown says:

    I originally own your four link universal kit, nice constructions on the rods. Anyways, the car its going into the upper bars need to be shorter to fit. How do you recommend me to shorten the rods? is there a particular tap i should use if cutting is required on the rods?
    Thank you
    Ron

  16. Wes lee says:

    I’m building a 1935 international pick up hot rod. I’ve put a 2001 expedition rear end under and wonder if your universal 4bar link kit will work for me. Or can you make me some custom length bars. What might that cost. I can send pictures so you can see what I am looking to try to do. Thanks for any help you can provide.

    • DW says:

      Hi Wes, sorry for the delay getting back to you. Does your rear end have the ears on top of the pinion for the upper bars? If so, then our 8.8 four link will work well. The standard bar lengths should be fine. If I’m not too late, feel free to send some pictures through.

      Thanks
      DW

  17. Damian says:

    I have a 73 gremlin that i am dropping a chevy 355 and turbo 400 tranny into. I have a narrowed 9 inch ford with 4.11 s ready to be mounted under the car. Would it be possible to use one of your kits and if so which one would you reccomend? The triangulated or parallel??? Thanks so much!!

    • paul says:

      There are advantages to each kit, Damian. The parallel kit is easier to install and adjust. The triangulated kit is less costly because it doesn’t require a Panhard bar. Either one will be fine in your Gremlin.

      Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
      Paul Horton

    • Gene says:

      Hey DW. Thanks for the reply, I will be installing this kit in my truck. Question about what shocks to buy, the Length of the shock, will I need to set up my suspension to determine this? And then the spring rate, what poundage of spring would you recommend? Thanks

    • DW says:

      Hi Doug, thanks for your note. We don’t have a kit designed specifically for your Challenger, but the triangulated kit has been used on cars like yours with success.
      DW Horton

    • DW says:

      No, Martin, the geometry does not work with the bars reversed.

      Thanks for asking before getting too far into the project.

      Paul Horton

  18. Mike Jensen says:

    I have a 59 apache. Using explorer 8.8 rear but it does not have the upper link mounts on the axle. I’ll be welding links to the axle tubes. I saw earlier on this page u suggest uppers meeting at center on a crossmember. Will your standard kit work for me?
    Thanks

    • DW says:

      Thanks for your question. The standard kit is used in both cases; whether or not you run the upper bars to the center of the rails or to the rails doesn’t change the kit. You’re correct; I’d just get the standard triangulated kit.

      Thanks again
      DW Horton

  19. Kenneth Malott says:

    km
    how can you calculate the length of the upper and lower bars so to know that your rear four link will work effectively ? I have a 1956 chevy bel air will use coilovers!

    • DW says:

      Ken, a triangulated rear 4-link is fairly forgiving if you need to change bar dimensions a bit. Our standard bar lengths will work well in your Chev.

      Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

      Paul Horton

  20. David mobley says:

    If I have a 3 degree down on my lower link – frame to axel
    Where should my top link be
    right now I have it 7 degree down – frame to axel or should it be level for the top link
    I don’t know if that right or not I have 3 inches of travel on my coil over or will that make a diference in how the upper link degree
    53 3100 chevy truck help please thank u David

    • DW says:

      Hi Darrin, thanks for your note. The decision regarding a parallel or a triangulated rear 4-link is somewhat philosophical. Here is my explanation:
      Both kits do a good job of locating the rear end, holding it in place, and letting the suspension work.
      The triangulated kit costs less than the parallel kit because a Panhard bar is not required.
      The parallel kit does require a Panhard kit (about $100.00). The parallel kit is easier to adjust for squaring the rear axle to the frame center line, and centering the frame left-to-right.

      The Panhard bar does move the frame left-to-right as the frame goes up and down, but if a straight Panhard bar is installed level, this amount is insignificant (about 1/8″ with a 19″ bar) for normal suspension travel.

      I hope this helps you decide. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
      Paul Horton

  21. Tony says:

    Im looking to get a 4 link set up in my 55 buick so i can have a open drive line instead of the torque tube.Any way you can direct me to everything i need. Thanks -Tony

  22. Brandon blake says:

    Looking for a triangulated four link kit for my ’85 Dodge D150 short box. What would you recommend? Thanks – Blake

  23. Dylan says:

    looking to put a triangulated 4 link on my 71′ Camaro…wondering what you think would work best, thanks

  24. Gilbert Zapien says:

    Gilbert Zapien. Do you have a tri four link kit that will fit a 1951 chevy four door fleetline frame?

    • DW says:

      We only have the one triangulated four link kit, and it should be fine on your 51. It’s a universal kit so there may be some trimming required.

  25. Michael says:

    Dear Welder Series,

    I am researching the install of your Triangulated Four Link on a 57 Pontiac. Do the rear mounts of the upper bars need to be on top of the axle tube? I noticed, even in the pictures of some installs on this site, that some rear upper bar mounts are on the FRONT of the axle tube. Is there a problem mounting them in front of the tube. I am not sure, in my case, I have the room to mount them on top without cutting up the floor.

    Your input would be greatly appreciated.

    • paul says:

      Putting the upper bars on top of the axle tubes gives better leverage advantage than on the front of the tube. The bars can also be longer than with the front mounting position. A downside is that the bar will mount 2 – 3″ higher than with the front-of tube position and this can cause floor interference.

  26. Jacob Regamey says:

    Im looking to do a four link on my off road truck, This kit would work great but im thinking of needing longer bars, is this possible to adjust the order to longer bars?
    please email I would like to order a ready to go kit in two weeks.

    • DW says:

      Hi Jacob, thanks for your note. Sure, we can do custom bars. It would be best to call so we can talk about the dimensions. Our toll free number is 1-888-648-2150.
      Thanks

  27. Donald says:

    hey wanting to put on a 4 link suspension kit on my 79 2WD chevy 1/2 ton stepside pickup wanting to know witch one to use a parallel or a triangulated kit with coil over shocks and can you list everything i’ll need for it.

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