Thanks Glen

Dear Glen…
Glen, our Model ‘A’ front 4-bar kit uses 5 degree adjusters with a 46″ axle and 9 degree with a 48″ axle. We can make custom bars with the welded end at 7 degrees. The adjuster would be straight. These bars would cost $30 more (for the set of 4 bars) than our custom length bars. This would cover 2 machine set-ups (one to set to 7 degrees, one to go back to zero.)  7/8″ welded, custom-length bars cost $45 each for a total of $180 plus the $30 for 7 degree machining for a grand total of $210.

Bill

Dear Bill…
Bill, our sway bar, and all Welder Series parts, are designed for street rod/hot rod applications. We have this bar on our ’32 Ford coupe. The sway bar is probably lighter than most racers would want.

Thanks for asking.

Dear Randy…
Randy, I’d like to check a couple of things…
We measure track with as the distance from one wheel mounting face to the other side wheel mounting face. 59-1/2″ sounds like too much for a Spitfire. Please check this.
The frame width, outside to outside, must be at least 26″ to mount the upper towers.

I’m confident that you will be able to put our crossmember in your frame, but it will require some frame mods to do it.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series…
Paul I rechecked the track it’s 49.5 in what kind of frame mods would have to be done?

Dear Randy…
Sounds like the frame width is going to be ok, Randy. Minimum width for a 56″ kit (actually 56-1/2″) is 26″. You want 7″ less (49-1/2), so the minimum frame width would be 19″. There will be other “ambushes” along the way, but see how Grant Schwartz did the Volvo at http://www.schwartzwelding.com/gallery/cars/20.html for some ideas.

We will get a catalog in the mail.

Thanks for looking at our parts.

Paul Horton

I did some measurements and I think I need bars of length between 36-38″  Does this seem too long?  How long were the bars in that above picture?

Thanks
Michael

Dear Michael…
Michael, this is a local car and the bars were standard length, about 25″ c-c. We can make custom bars for you if you need them. 36″ is getting long but is still do-able.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series…
Ok, I will have to measure again maybe I can mount them before the cut outs for the exhaust instead. Also I’m a HAMB Alliance member and noticed you offer a discount, how would I go about applying that when I place the order?
I did some re-measuring. I think I only need 30″ bars. Is it possible to get the parallel kit in welded fashion but have the frame brackets either left un-welded, or welded at an angle since I’ll be mounting it to an x-frame like you have in the picture on the blog? Also how can I go about ordering it this custom way, by phone?

Dear Michael…
Michael, a quote is attached for the rear 4-link as I think you want it. It starts as a ready-to-weld kit. This will let you weld the frame brackets the way you want them.  It also means you will have to weld the coil-over bolt support blocks in the rear axle brackets. This is a small job. We have deducted the standard bars and adjusters and quoted welded, custom-length bars and welded adjusters. Obviously, we have to get together on the bar length. The tubes on the bars and adjusters would be welded at 90 degrees to the bar axis. I have a feeling that the Buick in the picture got angled adjusters, but we don’t do them in the large format. (We could, as a special order, if you give us the angle you want.)
What will you do for a Panhard bar?

The other thing we need is your Alliance name, please. I have shown the discount on the quote, but this has to be confirmed.

Thanks for your interest in  Welder Series parts for your project.

Paul Horton

If you want to talk about these parts, please give me a call (1-888-648-2150) or send an email.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Canadian-Hot-Rods-Magazine/450463125065?fref=ts

Thanks CHR!

Here’s the link: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/buick-nailhead-engine-mounts/.

$160 welded, $145 ready to weld.

It’s for a 1951 Prefect, and the finished track width ended up close to 48″, with 5/8″ narrowed control arms.

Dear Chris…
Chris, in our experience, the urethane engine mounts are compatible with a rubber transmission mount. Many of the cars we built used this combination.

Thanks for asking.

Dear Karman…
Thanks for this note, Karman. We send the catalogs because customers told us friends were always “borrowing” the one we sent out, but not returning it. If someone asks for one (or two) now, you can give them out and still have one on your bench.
I hope we can help with other parts for your projects.

Let me explain.

Nevermind, let the pictures explain. When we say it’s a universal sway bar kit, Daniel took us up on that claim.

Dear Daniel…
Daniel, I’m guessing you spent at least an hour or more figuring all this out! I don’t know anything about bikes, but this is very impressive. Thanks for the pics, and for using Welder Series parts.

• Online Store

Sway Bar Kit, Universal

This universal fit sway bar is easy to install and lets you fit the bar to just about any application. 36" or 46" long, trim-to-fit.

$250.00 — $280.00

Sway Bar Kit (anti-roll bar), rear, 36″ wide, but can be cut down (with a hack saw) to any length. The bar is ¾” diameter with one end splined ¾-36. The other end of the bar is smooth. This smooth end gets pinned and welded into a coupler which welds to one of the arms. The laser-cut, 3/8″ thick arms are 8″ center-to-center.

Formed tabs weld to the outer tube and connect the bar to the rear crossmember using the coil-over bolts. Urethane bushings insulate road vibration. Rod ends connect the arms to the tabs that weld to the rear end. Overall length is ¾” longer than the bar length, since the 3/8″ arms mount outside the ends of the bar. The arms can be bent to clear the coil-overs.
To mount the sway bar to a crossmember tube without coilover bolts, please see the video “Sway Bar Options”. To order the kit like this, please add a comment in the order check-out. No extra charge.

The Model A sway bar kit includes a 40″ trim-to-fit sway bar with 3/4-36 splines on one end and no splines on the other end. Trim the bar to the exact length you need, then weld the smooth coupler and the arm to one end. Slip the bar through the outer tube and attach the splined coupler arm to the opposite end. The outer tube goes through the frame rails ahead of the rear end. The arms link to a formed bracket that bolts to the rear axle 4-link side plate. See pictures.

Installation article: https://www.welderseries.com/blog/2011/04/13/sway-bar-install-on-nsra-33-giveaway/

Click here for installation instructions.

Shipping Information:

Shipping charge is $25-$28. Ships via UPS to the lower 48 States and 10 Provinces. No duty or brokerage charges. No surprises. Tracking information will be emailed.

Dear Writer…
I always like to mock things up so I know that the look is what I want.  It does take longer, but gives better odds that things don’t have to be undone and redone.
Thanks for asking.

Best Regards,
Tommy Harrison

Dear Tommy…
Thanks very much for your time and personal request for RUBBER BUCKET. I appreciate your inquiry; I’ve been known to occasionally question the Home Depot salesman as to the availability of cross country skis at their fine store. While our product line is rather large, containing (no pun intended) many varieties of gussets, tabs, and other parts to make building a hot rod a little easier, we unfortunately have not diversified to the point of offering RUBBER BUCKET at this point. In fact, we don’t even sell Mustang II control arms or spindles. My grandpa used to say “DW, you need to get into the RUBBER BUCKET business. If you don’t, some day someone will be beating down your door (they spoke of doors back then… now it would be “beating down your inbox”) wanting all different sizes, and the prices of RUBBER BUCKET, and you won’t have any RUBBER BUCKET to sell. Alternatively, you could sell hot rod parts.”

You see, Tommy, my grandpa was right. He knew that the only alternative to selling many models and sizes of RUBBER BUCKET was to do something I enjoyed.

I took the liberty of doing a quick Google search for you and came up with a nicely made RUBBER BUCKET for equestrian purposes. I’m not sure if you’re into horses or hot rods… maybe that’s why you were asking for different models. I didn’t check if they have a hot rod RUBBER BUCKET. http://kioskkiosk.com/products/rubber-bucket

Thanks again for your time.
DW Horton

p.s. Sorry, I forgot to mention that we do accept credit card payment (and PayPal).

http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-kit-rear-8-8-ford/

I am using a 67 chevelle rearend with the stock triangulate four link setup, and I am just trying to make sure I can use the existing top mounts.
Thanks for your help!

Dear Alexander…
The parts in this kit are:
Frame brackets for the upper and lower bars.
Lower bars with one end adjustable. The other end has a sleeve for the urethane bushing.
Upper bars with one end adjustable. The other (axle) end has a bracket that wraps around the stock GM bushing on the axle differential casting. This bracket must be welded to the bar after the bar has been cut to length. It might be necessary to drill this bracket to the correct bolt size.
Axle brackets for the lower bars. The brackets have holes to mount coil-overs or shocks.
Urethane bushings and hardware. Bolts and nuts for the axle end of the upper bar are not included. (The stock GM bolt & nut can be used.)
Installation instructions.
The kit is available in component pieces that you would weld together or with all welding done that can be done by our shop.
Thanks for asking. I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton

I have a couple questions.

1.What track width do I select for that car? I’m probably going to run stock steel wheels and 640 Bias Ply tires.

2. When I do purchase the upper spring hat, will it allow me use air bags??

Dear Drew…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts, Drew. The 56″ track width is right for your Chev. The kit for stock-type springs will let you use air bags. The bag companies have a top hat looking adapter.

Dear Jim…
Jim, there’s not much difference, strength wise, between the parallel and the triangulated kits. If you don’t want or need the adjustments of the Pro/Street kit (http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-kit-prostreet/), I’d suggest you go with the kit you like best.

The parallel kit is easier to install and easier to adjust because the Panhard does the left-to-right without changing the pinion angle or the  squareness of the rear end to the frame centerline. The Panhard might be fairly short, depending on how narrow the frame is. You could use the 2184 (http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-universal-rear/) kit to keep the bar as long as possible.

The triangulated kit is less money, because there’s no Panhard to buy. You might consider running the upper bars from just inside the frame to a crossmember above the driveshaft. Weld the kit’s upper bar frame brackets to this crossmember. This will give more stability to the upper triangulation.

In either case, since the car will be Pro/Street, you should consider adding a gusset to the lower bar bracket.
I hope this helps with your decision. Please ask if you have other questions.

Dear Welder Series…
Thanks for answering my e-mail only I’m not sure about the, (gusset to the lower bar bracket) you mentioned is there anyplace on the website with a photo?
Also I’m guessing the car is going to weigh  around 3,000 lbs. estimated. Is there a specific triangulated 4 bar kit for that size of a car?
Thanks again Jim

Dear Jim…
There aren’t pictures of the lower bracket gusset. This is just a suggestion if you plan to beat on the car with stickier tires.
The 318500 kit is a versatile triangular rear 4-link that would work fine.
Thanks for getting back to me.

Paul Horton

Dear Tom…
Tom, our 56″ kits are the ones to use in your Plymouth. They are on our site at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ws14540/ and http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/21906/.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your build.

Charles

Dear Charles…
Charles, 1935-41 Ford car and 1935-41 Ford pickups used the same frame rails. Yes, our plates will work with your ’37. They are in stock.

 
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Jon…
Our pro/street rear 4-link can be set up so the bars are parallel for street driving or they can be adjusted to get the instant center that you want for racing.  The kit comes with urethane bushed bars.  Serious racers use these on the street but change them to rod ends for the track.

The link to our site is http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-kit-prostreet/ .

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.

Paul Horton

He used our coil over kit, which is a little bit less expensive than the coil spring crossmember kit. The coil overs will cost more up front, but will be easier to fine-tune the ride due to the availability of shock damping and a wider range of spring rates.

Mark has been added to our monthly draw to receive a $50 credit on his account here. We draw a random name from those who send in pictures of our parts being used on their car. Please send pictures to pictures@welderseries.com.

dw