Tech | Welder Series Inc.

$8 C Notches… or “Why We Rarely Upsell”

If there’s one business rule that we often break here at Welder Series, it’s “always upsell”. If someone calls and orders something by part number, chances are good they have looked around and decided that that’s the part they need.

I don’t know about you, but when I know what I need, the one thing I don’t need is someone telling me what I need. Sure, I could get into a “it’s all about the skill of the salesman, convincing you to buy something you weren’t originally going to buy without even realizing it” discussion, but I won’t. Maybe some other time.

I’m not saying I’ve never asked someone if they could use some bushings to go with the adjusters they just bought, for instance… but I don’t think I’ve ever purposefully tried to sell something to someone that wasn’t in the family of parts they were originally asking about. That’s the difference between “selling” and “encouraging orders”, for me. I don’t like to be “sold” things by a pushy know-it-all, but if a salesman helps me decide to order something, that’s a lot different.

Anyways, the thing that I started this whole post about was an $8 part that represents a savings of $17.50 over a similar part. I actually made a video about it before, but that post highlighted a different use for the same part. This time, it’s a transmission tunnel clearance notch boxing plate (or a Mustang II coil spring relief notch) being used for rear axle C notches. If you’re ok with a three sided C notch instead of a rolled notch, this should work out just fine. If you’re ok with $17.50 in your pocket instead of a rolled notch on your frame, this should work out just fine for you, too.

The three sided notch is 7-1/2″ long (or tall, if you need to mount it vertically), 6-3/8″ wide, and 1-3/4″ high. Instead of using two rolled notch pieces, you could use one of these (#674213) and cut it in half to use one on each frame rail.

Why “expose” this lower-profit-dollar option? When you have “Save Money” as part of your company profile, it’s only right. And you know what? Customers like saving money, and they’ll most likely call back again… and again.

Classic Trucks Step Notch Install Article

There’s nothing like the real thing! Jim Rizzo installed one of our new-ish step notch kits in his ’57 Chev project truck, wrote all about it, and if you haven’t seen the article in the magazine, here’s a link to the online version:

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/1102clt_welder_series_step_notch_kit/index.html

If you’re wondering what a step notch is, or were hoping for some more info, Click Here. They’re only $90.

Thanks Jim!

Tig tip: tungsten storage and sharpening

I keep all my tungsten in a little hand made holder with a bunch of holes drilled in it. This holds them pointy side up so they don’t get dulled before I use them. I also don’t have to keep getting up to sharpen each time a point gets dirty.
To sharpen them, I use an old variable speed drill, chuck one up, then spin it slowly as I gently hold it against the grinding wheel. I always sharpen with the tungsten pointed up so there’s no burr on the end.

Tech Tip: Fuel Line

I used a stainless clutch pedal pad bracket for the 3/8″ hole to hold my fuel line to the back of the head. (pics #1 & 2)

If you’re comfortable enough with your welding skills, go ahead and weld it to the line! (pic 3)

“Yeah, I have a 31″ die for 3/8″ hard line” In fact, everyone does – use the grooves on your tire to hold the line, then gently persuade it around the circumference. The rubber will give a little bit so the tube won’t buckle unless you really haul on it. (pics 4 +)

Tech Tip: Brake Line Tabs

I used these little front panhard tabs (Welder Series part #21942S) to hold the front section of my rear flex lines. I drilled them out to one little size smaller than 7/16″, which is a press-fit for the -3 end of the hose. This way I don’t have to use those clips and a bulkhead fitting. I’ve got a -3 joiner between the hard line and the flex line.

Rough Assembly with Urethane Bushings

When you’re putting stuff together that uses urethane bushings, only put one half of the bushing in. It will hold the inner sleeve, and it will be a heck of a lot easier to remove when it’s time to paint.

Using a Short Water Pump on a ZZ4

To use a short water pump on a ZZ4 engine, you will have to relieve (read “grind”) some points on it so that it will clear the plastic timing cover.

JH Restorations: Sway Bar Install

I received these pictures from JH Restorations as submissions to our monthly photo draw, and as I looked at the rest of the pictures in his Facebook album, I thought they would be good to use on our site too. The captions are taken right from their Facebook album.

: So the body is off to paint so mow we have to finish up the frame. Here we are going to be replacing the rear stamped steel cross member with a 1″5/8 bar. This will not only clean up the look but it will give us a place to mount our sway bar.

: Once we have determined where we want the bar we used a hole saw and cut out both sides of the boxed frame and slid the bar inside. This will five the frame plenty of strength when it is all welded up.

: Next we had to cut the Welder Series sway bar by about an inch. The Tube was already cut off and Jordan used it as a gauge to cut the correct length off of the sway bar.

: Here the bar is mocked up in the frame.

: Now it is time to weld the arm to the end of the bar. This small steel ring Jordan made will ensure that enverything is centered.

: Here you can see where the bar will be welded to the coupler ends on the sway bar.

: Here is the final assembly before everything gets paint and powder coat.

: Here is the Sway bar. The smaller Spring steel bar rides inside or the larger tube, and is issolated by poly bushing at either end. We also used Welder Series alternate swaybar mounting method.

: Here is a close look at the sway bar disassembled. For more information on the set up visit www.Welderseries.com Paul and DW have always been great to deal with.

: Here you can seen the black tube at the top. That is housing the Fords new sway bar.

Parts:
WS22700 Universal Sway Bar

Check out the complete build of this 1955 Ford Custom Line.

’32 Update: Control Your Air Ride Exhaust (article 55)

I’ve got a whole air ride theory article in the works, relaying my experiences and hunches over the last two seasons of driving a light car with air ride on the rear. Until then, here’s a tip for controlling your rate of decline, allowing you to fine-tune the ride. I’ve found it’s more effective to arrive at a constant and happy ride quality by ‘coming down’ on the ride height you’re shooting for, rather than squirting little bursts into the bags to get to a predetermined ride height/quality.

I put a tiny, tiny hole in a hole plug and screwed it into the exhaust port. Next time the correct size hole plug shows itself around these parts, I’m going to drill an even smaller hole in it and replace this one.

Over the winter, we’re hoping to create some sort of easy ride height gauge for the ’32. Stay tuned…

Dear Welder Series… sway bar mounting question

Dear Welder Series…
I’ve been looking at your sway bar kits for a rear application. Is there any provision for mounting through the frame rails but having the arms and links on the inside of the frame rails?
Norman

Dear Norman…
This could be done by drilling a 3/4″ diameter (actually 13/16″ would be better for clearance) hole in the arms for the bar to pass through. Use smooth couplers both ends (instead of one end splined) and pin the arms to the bar. The frame rails should be boxed if they are not already. A short length of the 1-3/8″ OD tubing would be welded into each frame rail and the urethane bushings would be inserted from the driveshaft side of the frame rails.

It might be more convenient (for installation and removal) to put a crossmember in the frame and mount the sway bar off of this tube. The sway bar could be mounted behind the crossmember at the same height.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts. We like to hear about imaginative ways of accomplishing things.

Paul Horton

Welder Series Inc.

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