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Narrow Mustang II Crossmember Install

Grant Schwartz of Schwartz Welding has completed a beautiful example of a narrowed Welder Series Mustang II crossmember.

It’s for a 1951 Prefect, and the finished track width ended up close to 48″, with 5/8″ narrowed control arms.

Sway Bar Mounted on a Motorcycle

Let me explain.

Nevermind, let the pictures explain. When we say it’s a universal sway bar kit, Daniel took us up on that claim.

Dear Daniel…
Daniel, I’m guessing you spent at least an hour or more figuring all this out! I don’t know anything about bikes, but this is very impressive. Thanks for the pics, and for using Welder Series parts.

Sway Bar Kit, Universal

This universal fit sway bar is easy to install and lets you fit the bar to just about any application. 36" or 46" long, trim-to-fit.

$250.00 — $280.00

Sway Bar Kit (anti-roll bar), rear, 36″ wide, but can be cut down (with a hack saw) to any length. The bar is ¾” diameter with one end splined ¾-36. The other end of the bar is smooth. This smooth end gets pinned and welded into a coupler which welds to one of the arms. The laser-cut, 3/8″ thick arms are 8″ center-to-center.

Formed tabs weld to the outer tube and connect the bar to the rear crossmember using the coil-over bolts. Urethane bushings insulate road vibration. Rod ends connect the arms to the tabs that weld to the rear end. Overall length is ¾” longer than the bar length, since the 3/8″ arms mount outside the ends of the bar. The arms can be bent to clear the coil-overs.
To mount the sway bar to a crossmember tube without coilover bolts, please see the video “Sway Bar Options”. To order the kit like this, please add a comment in the order check-out. No extra charge.

The Model A sway bar kit includes a 40″ trim-to-fit sway bar with 3/4-36 splines on one end and no splines on the other end. Trim the bar to the exact length you need, then weld the smooth coupler and the arm to one end. Slip the bar through the outer tube and attach the splined coupler arm to the opposite end. The outer tube goes through the frame rails ahead of the rear end. The arms link to a formed bracket that bolts to the rear axle 4-link side plate. See pictures.

Installation article: https://www.welderseries.com/blog/2011/04/13/sway-bar-install-on-nsra-33-giveaway/

Click here for installation instructions.

Shipping Information:
Shipping charge is $25-$28. Ships via UPS to the lower 48 States and 10 Provinces. No duty or brokerage charges. No surprises. Tracking information will be emailed.

Custom Multi-Angle Adjusters

We recently had a visit from a Welder Series regular, Grant Schwartz of Schwartz Welding (click here for his Facebook page). You’ve probably heard me talk about Grant before- he knows our product line almost as well as I do and he makes very good use of it!

This time, Grant was hunting for a way to create a multi angle adjuster that was cost-effective, strong, and not as long as his previous version (which utilized a clevis).

Here is what he came up with, along with the parts he used.

Click on the pictures to go to that item in our web store.

Adjuster stud, $8.50.
Flatten the notch, or cut off the large diameter portion of the stud.

Clamp bar for front spring perch kit, $6.00.
This piece is good for two adjusters. Cut next to each hole and weld to the end of the adjuster stud.

Transmission adapter reinforcing tab, $8.30.
Cut both tabs off so they’re the same, then weld them to the tube. You can use #21273 plus a small piece of cereal box as a spacer.

Urethane bushing outer sleeve, $3.15

Urethane bushing kit (includes two bushing halves and an inner sleeve), $9.30

So, what’s the bottom line? Adding the pieces up, including the urethane bushings, two multi-angle adjusters would cost $64.50. I calculated the price for two because you can’t buy half of #21273 (the part that welds to the adjuster stud). You’ll also need a couple bolts and nuts. Clicking on the pictures will take you to that item on our web store. We keep these pieces in stock. What would you use a multi-angle adjuster for? Diagonal locators, control arms… anything where changing the length of the bar would also change the angle of the adjuster.

Thanks for the pictures, Grant!

Early vs. Late Mustang Spindle Differences

A customer stopped in yesterday carrying a spindle. In itself, I recognize that this sentence requires an explanation. He was curious as to the origin of said spindle… was it early Mustang? Pinto? Mustang II? It certainly looked like a Mustang II spindle, but he just wanted to double check. We have a pair of spindles which we use for a caliper bracket fixture, so we brought them out for a little compar-o. Here are the differences:

 

The spindle on the left (the clean one) is a 1974-78 Mustang II spindle. On the right is the spindle that was brought in to compare; it’s from a 1971-73 Pinto. Between the ball joint holes (vertically, inside-to-inside) on the Pinto spindle is 5-1/16″ while the Mustang II is 5-7/8″. Also, the steering arm hole center to the lower ball joint center dimension is 4-1/2″ on the Pinto spindle but 5″ on the MII. The lower caliper bracket hole is in a different location as well.

So, on first glance, they look quite similar. However, you now have the ammo required for those late night “tech sessions” so when your buddy tells you the difference between the fabric smell on the early Corvair versus the last production run, you’ll be able to counter with this useful information on the differences between 71-73 Pinto and Mustang II spindles.

Bolt-on Rear Shackle Mount

Grant Schwartz came by looking for some parts to make up a bolt-on frame mount for a leaf spring suspension he was working on. He said “what about that four hole transmission adapter, and a couple 90 degree gussets that will let me hang the shackle tube away from the frame rail a bit.”

Here’s what he was thinking of…

Four Hole Plate
Gusset

Sharing Build Pictures on Facebook

Schwartz Inc. has been shooting projects out of his one-man shop faster than… well, he’s pretty fast. About the only thing better than a fast shop is a fast shop that’s ten minutes away from our shop! Grant regularly stops in to pick up parts… he knows the catalog pretty well by now and utilizes many gussets and tabs as alternatives to cutting them out by hand.

I’ve gone through his Facebook page and tagged Welder Series in pictures where our parts are used. Currently there are 99 pictures tagged and as more projects are completed, I’m sure that number will grow.

Check them out! I hope they give you some ideas for your own project. If you see our parts being used in a picture on Facebook, please go ahead and tag us – it’s like a pictorial Dear Welder Series.

Schwartz Inc. on Facebook

Welder Series Inc. on Facebook

Dear Welder Series… tig info

Dear Welder Series…
Specifically I’m looking to get into a tig setup for the first time. Would a Miller Maxstar 150 be powerful enough to do the nice (and quick, I might add!) tig welding I see being done on your videos?

Thanks, Scott

Dear Scott…
Thanks for asking me about this welder, Peter.  I’m not familiar with it, but it seems light.  Here is a forum thread that I’ve been following that might be helpful: http://canadianrodder.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3206

I know Mike (Oldman) and respect his knowledge.  (He’s a heck of a good guy, too.)

I hope this helps.

Paul Horton.

Dear Welder Series… What diameter are your sway bars?

Dear Welder Series…
Do you make your universal sway bar in 0.500 inch diameter. The 48 Plymouth Conv I’m working on never had a rear sway bar and I may not be able to use anything greater than 0.750 on the front.

Bob

Dear Bob…
Bob, all of our sway bars are .75″ diameter.  The outer tube, which serves as a bearing (urethane bushing) holder and a place for the mounting tabs, is 1-3/8″ O.D.

Thanks for looking at our parts.

Paul Horton.

“Hey, That’s Neat!” Syracuse Nationals Tech Session Pics

Even though I didn’t get through all the pictures in my slideshow during the presentation, we have the technology to post them on the Internet for all to see. Our tech session this year was a slideshow of pictures of neat things on hot rods. Hopefully you’ll be able to use at least one idea on your current project, or even a future ride!

Welder Series Tech Seminar @ Syracuse

If you’re going to the Syracuse Nationals this year (I think you should), stop in and see us! On Saturday, Paul Horton and I will be presenting a tech seminar.

Since we’ve done a few tech sessions at Syracuse over the years on chassis brackets, we thought it would be nice to switch gears a bit this year and do something a bit more “generic”.

The title of the seminar is “Hey… That’s Neat! Cool Things on Hot Rods” and it will basically be a narrated slideshow of pictures of neat things that we’ve seen on cars. It should be a fun time, and hopefully everyone will see at least one thing that they hadn’t thought of, or that they’ll be able to apply to their current build. Think of it as a giant brainstorming session.

If you have any pictures of neat things on a hot rod that you think should be shared, email it to [email protected]. Depending on how many pictures we receive, we may have to trim some out. Don’t be discouraged- we’ll post them in a special article on our site, too.