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You’re looking to save a few dollars on your build, just like everyone else. But really, in how many places can you possibly cut corners until all you’re left with is a circle? You want quality parts that look professional.
Welder Series was started to help you keep some money in your pocket and still end up with high quality, professional chassis parts. Here is a little comparison between buying parts for your project in ready to weld form (we supply the parts, you stick them together, then stick them on your frame), and welded (we weld them together and you stick them on your frame). Keep in mind that the vast majority or our product line requires welding to your frame anyways, so why not save some money while the welder’s warm? If you decide you want us to weld your parts, that’s fine! We’ll (I’ll) make sure that I’d be tickled to install every welded part going out the door on my own car.
So, a selection of parts for one frame build could save you just over $195. Some of you might say “I’d rather them weld it for $195…” but some might say “cool… sounds like fun!” Someone else might say “Did you know they filmed an adult giant squid for the first time in 2006?”
Whether you weld it or we (I) weld it, we’re sure you’ll be glad you ordered from Welder Series!
The Canadian Street Rodding Hall of Fame will induct legendary hot rodder and Bonneville veteran Gary Weldon of Millgrove, Ontario on October 22, 2011 at their annual Gala to be held at the Royal Canadian Legion Branch 551, 79 Hamilton St N., Waterdown, Ontario. Weldon will become the 44th member of the Hall of Fame.
The evening starts at 5:30 PM with a meet and greet. The ceremonies are scheduled to begin at 6:30 PM with the formal induction presentation after the buffet dinner. There will be live entertainment for your listening and dancing pleasure.
The cost of the entire evening including an ‘all you can eat’ buffet with desserts and beverages, a great rock and roll band and camaraderie with the legends of street rodding is only $30.00 per person.
A limited number of tickets are available. They can be obtained at Horton Hot Rod Parts in Milton or at Welder Series in Breslau both proud sponsors of the Canadian Street Rodding Hall of Fame.
For more information on the Canadian Street Rodding Hall of Fame, go to www.csrhof.com
Dear Welder Series…
Howdy!
Is there any reason that a panhard bar has to reach across the rear end? It would work best for a panhard bar to be about 12” to 15” long in my application. Some input would be appreciated.
Thanks! Chuck
Dear Chuck…
Chuck, for a constant amount of vertical frame travel, the sideways movement of the frame increases as the Panhard bar becomes shorter. It is important to have the two Panhard attachment points close to the same height from the ground.
I feel that 15″ is very short. (That means 12″ is very, very short!) Can you use a diagonal locator from one frame mount to the axle bracket on the opposite side?
If you send some pics we might have other suggestions.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Howdy!
Thanks for the reply! I have a triangulated 4-bar suspension, the upper links are on approx. 15 degree angle. Is that enough to hold the rear end laterally. It’s all I could get. It’s on a 55 chevy with a 10 chevy rear end, so can’t weld to the center housing…
Thanks!
Chuck
Dear Chuck…
Could the upper bars be run from the top of the axle tube, just inside each frame rail, to mounting points inboard on a new crossmember?
Paul
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Slick ’33 five window.
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We see this truck every year at our hotel- it’s neat because it has a Welder Series Mustang II crossmember!
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You could spend hours looking over all the details on this roadster.
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Check out the trunk -er- tank :)
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Kirby getting set up to stripe a bowling pin trophy for the annual BMX race on Saturday night.
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I took the plastic coating off and sanded the wood. After painting it, I sort of ran out of talent and figured I should pass it on to someone who would be able to stripe it.
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Enter Kirby. This is a neat story… Mark Cain was looking at our parts Thursday morning, and we got talking and I asked him if he knew anyone who would be able to stripe this bowling pin I had. Mark got this look on his face like a kid who just found a dollar, made a phone call, and said “Kirby will be here tomorrow!” He’s just outlining the black ovals I painted here.
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Kirby’s fun bucket.
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Watching him was a bit mesmerizing.
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So who won it? Actually it was Tim Strange… I have one of his painted bowling pins in my living room from last year, and he’ll be able to add this to his art collection! According to a lot of BMXers at the track, Tim had never biked so hard- I like to think he was going for my special edition Kirby- striped trophy :)
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Never thought I’d see a Beetle parked in the circle at Louisville! Neat touches on it though, and it looks like a blast to drive.
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WUMP. Love it.
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It’s hard to tell, but Tim Strange is driving the kart. A kid couldn’t believe he saw TIM STRANGE, host of Search & Restore, at the show, and Tim had told him we were going go karting that night. He didn’t stop asking his grandparents if he could go too until they brought him. He wouldn’t stop chanting “TIMTIMTIMTIMTIMTIM”! So Tim took him for a few rides around the track, making memories for years to come, I’m sure.
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Troopers back in.
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This is for John, who is building a cab over.
We’ll be leaving the bustling suburb of Breslau for the big city of Louisville on Monday for the NSRA Street Rod Nationals + (is that where Google got it?). If you’re going to be there, please come and visit our booth- we’re in the same spot as the last umpteen years… right across from Yogi’s, in booth #134.
We’ll offer the same deal as last year, too: if you buy Welder Series parts at the show, you won’t have to carry them back to your car- we’ll get them to your door for no charge shipping. There’s no minimum order, either.
While we’re away, we will still be replying to emails. Phone calls will be returned when we get back. We will not be shipping any parts from August 1-8.
Please come to the Hot Rod Industry BMX Challenge on Saturday night! I’ll have info in our booth. Tim and Carrie Strange (yes, even though he’s a TV star now, he still pays attention to the little people  Oh wait, maybe it’s because I’m on YouTube…) put a LOT of time and effort into this event. I know it would mean a lot to them to see you there. And you.
I’m driving the ’32 down, which will be the third Louisville it’s been to. It’s been a few other places in between, too… we’ve racked over 24 000 miles on it since August 1, 2009. Hope to see you there!
dw
Even though I didn’t get through all the pictures in my slideshow during the presentation, we have the technology to post them on the Internet for all to see. Our tech session this year was a slideshow of pictures of neat things on hot rods. Hopefully you’ll be able to use at least one idea on your current project, or even a future ride!
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These heat shrink hose clamps clean things up and spread the clamping surface over a wider area. One negative is they’re not reusable.
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A drawer was installed under the seat in this F100 pickup to make the space more accessible.
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A diagonal locator works like a Panhard bar, triangulating the rear suspension. If a Panhard isn’t easy to hook up, this might be a good option.
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An overhead console can clean up your floor, allowing you to mount things like a CD player, and some little cubbys.
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An overhead light from a late model car can sometimes blend in well, depending on the theme of the car.
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This is a really clean coilover install on a solid axle front end. The builder also used Allen head bolts on the four link brackets… very clean!
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It adds a bunch of connections, but running brake lines through the frame rails is a way to clean up the underside.
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The transmission lines are also run through the rails on this ’32.
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Another clean coilover install on a solid axle front end.
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The slight radius on the rear spreader bar makes all the difference to this ’32- it’s highly detailed.
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An under-dash shelf in a roadster is a good way to make use of the space. A ‘secondary’ dash drops down from the main dash with the same curve.
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Custom wiper arms!
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Welding a 3/8″ plate under the body mount holes in the frame rails gives you some fudge room. You can set the body on the rails, drill through the body mount holes into the plate, then tap the plate and your body mount holes will be in the exact location.
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Mocking up your dash with paper templates is an easy way to lay out gauges and switches. Just remember to make the template as large as the biggest part of the switch- sometimes the ‘brains’ of the switch will be larger than the switch itself.
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A rolled grille shell, neat nerf bar, and a zillion other neat things are on Ron Wiggins’ RPU.
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Ron counterbored his axle then painted the inserts with a hammertone to set off the “holes”.
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Ron fabricated the firewall himself, as well as the air cleaner… it’s exhaust tubing sectioned in half and welded together.
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The steering wheel matches the two-tone interior.
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A torsion bar sits inside the frame rails, and the arm fits into a slot in the hairpins.
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32 Build: this little disc functions as a brake pedal return spring holder and a brake light switch activator.
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Running flex lines to the master cylinder lets you drop it to fill without opening the system, as well as giving the option of adding a booster.
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Buying a four link kit ready-to-weld offers the advantage of ‘aiming’ the frame brackets at the rear end without trimming them.
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Instead of a tilt column, how about a tilt steering wheel?!
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I wanted to hide the fan wires…
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I lengthened the wires, then ran them on the inside of the fan guard.
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They exit the fan and tuck behind the grille shell.
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To measure a gap (in this case, for weatherstripping), stick a ball of silly putty on the gap, then close the door.
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The result will be a perfectly measured “gap”!
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To level the exhaust tips, we mounted one side then used a bottle jack and a digital level to bring the other side up until it was level. Hangers can then be made.
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I wanted to match the size of the button heads on the caliper brackets to the caliper bolts, and install them from the engine side instead of from the wheel side (like the one on the right).
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The spacer on the stainless bolt is the same diameter as the machined head on the black bolt. The cone nut has the same taper as the black bolt head. Basically, I’m reversing the direction of the bolt and changing the thread pitch.
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Looking from the wheel side, you can see the tapered nut that the stainless bolt is threaded in to. The threads were cut flush to the plate.
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A late model dash can be modified to fit in a hot rod.
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Looking through my pictures, I found this one… if it’s your car, please check the driver side motor mount- it was missing a nut.
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A Dave Lane built ’32 Delivery has a bunch of neat touches- he used simple textured rubber floor mats that are functional and neatly accomplished.
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A Chip Foose built ride… I couldn’t find the fan wires! Maybe it’s bluetooth… ;)
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A Ridler car is a study in neat things… I like that the end of the ball joint threads are polished!
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To shave the diameter of this little aluminum bracket, I drew two lines around the inside of the hole with a Sharpie. As I filed the hole, I could tell how much I’d taken off by the disappearing lines.
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The spreader bar bolts have been machined down to be slimmer than the standard 1/2″ button heads (on the right).
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To get a thin length of weatherstripping, just slice a solid piece with a razor blade.
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I painted the horizontal grille bars on our ’32 grille so the blend in with the black radiator.
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To increase the diameter of something in a pinch, try using duct tape.
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A simple, functional speedometer sender (Ford).
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Nice transition from rectangular to dual round tubes.
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Here’s one way to connect throttle linkage…
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“hey, why not?!”
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Name that rear suspension…
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Name that rear suspension…
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Same car…
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This spreader bar is welded to the frame rails, but painted a different color to set it apart.
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Nice black transmission cooler lines. Are these aftermarket or heat shrinked?
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I love the twine-wrapped wires!
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Clean firewall connection for the heater hoses, as well as a really clean engine bay.
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Beautiful flush fit roof insert.
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Wrinkle black is always fine with me!
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Clean spline drive wheel bolts.
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I love the look of brazed fuel lines
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A ’32 grille on a ’35 sedan? I think it looks great!
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A simple tool to straighten the flanges on a set of frame rails.
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Amazing fitment of the chassis tubing.
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Amazing fitment of the chassis tubing.
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A fixture for assembling steel bodies.
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A really clean install of the wiring and accessories.
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A mini battery mounted sideways can save a lot of space.
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Check out the work on the bumper/ exhaust cutout!
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A set of Welder Series Ford engine mounts have been drilled and look great.
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Body mount bolts… stainless washers welded to stainless Allen head bolts, then machined smooth. They’re welded on the underside too.
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Sometimes there’s only one place the steering linkage will go!
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Usually the four link brackets weld underneath the rails, but there’s really no reason why they can’t go on top…
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Grant Schwartz transitions from a 2×4 tube to a 2×3 tube by cutting a 90 degree notch then setting the smaller tube inside that notch. This gives him more weld area.
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A clean way to recess the booster into the firewall is to weld the booster bracket to a hoop, then weld the hoop to the firewall.
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The steering linkage on this Plymouth with a Hemi had to be routed to just about where the brake pedal is. Grant installed a U joint halfway down the column and kicked the shaft out before the toeboard. Slick!
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A handy way to fill your air bags if you don’t have the compressor hooked up yet.
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The Welder Series motor mounts let you mount a small block Chevy in anything from a T bucket to an F100, all with the same part number.
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Our universal sway bar kit is a trim to fit install.
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Our transmission mount saddle is also adaptable to many frames.
Classic Rods & More (Lynchburg, VA) and Welder Series have introduced a proven MII IFS kit that you can weld yourself for your 1928-31 Ford Model A that will give you a low stance and maintain your wheels in the center of the front fenders. This IFS has been produced and used for a number of years by one of the owners of Classic Rods & More and maintains the stock MII geometry. It does not require bubbling the front fenders in order to clear the A-Arms. Front end alignment is achieved by using stock MII specifications. The kit will not require any additional manufacturing to install. Once the kit is welded just place the crossmember on the front axle centerline, place the tower centerline on the same front axle centerline on the outside of the frame rails and weld in place. The crossmember kit is available from Welder Series (#WS283120), or you can buy a hub-to-hub kit from Classic Rods & More from $1600.
Also available from other Welder Series dealers.
Just a quick reminder for those heading to the Waterdown Swap Meet in southwestern Ontario this fall… it will be held at the Rockton Fairgrounds.
http://www.waterdownswapmeet.com/
I think I’ve made the 60+ ’32 Build articles a little easier to filter by grouping articles into subcategories. Check it out by hovering over the 32 BUILD button in the blue bar, highlighted in the picture (but the picture is just an example of what the blue bar actually looks like):
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