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New Product: Mustang II Rack Mount

We’re doing these a bit differently than we used to – providing them flat, so you can put your adjustable wrench to use for less than a minute and fold the sides then weld up the corners.  They work well for other kinds of mounts, too… one local builder used them for tie down strap anchor points.

They’re just $8.00 each.  Click here to check them out in our web store.  Here’s a video:

Rack Mount- Mustang II

Supplied flat, this 10 ga. Mustang II rack mount is available with a slot or a hole.

$8.00 — $9.00

This mount will rotate the rack input shaft down 20 degrees to make it easier to connect to the steering column.  The mounting hole is 5/8″ dia. The center of the hole is about 1-3/8″ from the front face of the crossmember.

The slotted rack mount is used on the passenger side of the crossmember so both early and later Mustang II racks can be mounted. The mounting hole is slotted 1-1/8″ x 5/8″ dia. 10 ga. steel.

Easy to fold with an adjustable wrench.

Video:

Products related to "Rack Mount- Mustang II"

New store item: Nutserts

These inserts are great for adding threads to a blind hole, or even adding threads to a painted surface.  There is a special tool typically used to crimp them in place, but I found this tip to do it without the tool:

Nutsert Installation

by Brian Brown
This is how I install nutserts without the special tool.

Start out with a strip of 12 gauge steel about 12″ X 1″. Near the end drill a clearance hole of the appropriate size for a bolt that fits the nutsert.

Get a long bolt (same thread size as the nutsert), nut and flat washer.

Thread the nut onto the bolt until it’s near the head of the bolt. Slide the flat washer onto the bolt. Now stick the end of the bolt through the hole in the steel strip.

Thread the nutsert onto the end of the bolt until the end of the bolt is flush with the bottom of the nutsert. Slide the steel strip and the flat washer up against the face of the nutsert.

Lubricate the bolt thread that’s now exposed between the nut and the flat washer with a molybdenum lubricant (doing it at this point minimizes getting lubricant on the nutsert threads). Thread the nut down until it touches the flatwasher.

Push the nutsert into its hole.

Use two wrenches. One to hold the head of the bolt stationary. One to turn the nut. The steel strip should also be held stationary.

*** This is the key point *** By holding the steel strip and the bolt stationary, there will be no twisting force applied to the nutsert as it is tightened. As the nut is turned, the bolt will be pulled straight out, collapsing and seating the nutsert.

When the nutsert is very tightly seated, loosen the nut a little and then unthread the bolt from the nutsert.

Using this method with the steel strip, you should have no problem with nutserts being loose. I’ve installed many nutserts this way without any problem.

I hope this helps.

Click on the picture to go to our web store.

$0.50/each

T Shirts!

Once again, Brian Stupski of Problem Child Kustoms put on his magic cape and sorcerer’s cap to pull off a neat-o T shirt for all of us “simpletons” to enjoy.  When Brian has a crayon in his hands, watch out folks… it’s a kind of magic.

You can pick one up for only $10 in our web store… click here to have a peek.

New Product: step notch kits

This is a new product that has evolved out of a customer’s willingness to ask us if we would consider making a step notch kit. The question was posed, and we responded by doing some research into the step notch market. If you’ve never really heard of a step notch, it’s basically a clearance channel for the rear axle, typically used in a mini truck (S10, Ranger, etc.) frame to let the frame drop down without resting on top of the axle. Kind of like a kick-up or a C notch. The mini truck market seems to be saturated with step notch kits – kind of like a Mustang II kit for a ’40 Ford at first glance. Sure, there are a few variations on the theme, but they’re all step notch kits at heart. This new step notch kit we’re introducing is still a step notch, of course, but it has some advantages that we feel are significant.

The notch depth will vary, depending on how tall the frame rails are, and what sweep the original frame rails have.  The S10 we used for our installation article, for instance, has 4″ of clearance between the top of the axle and the notch when the frame is laying on the ground.  The measurement was taken with 18″ wheels.

  • Available ready-to-weld.  This is a huge thing with mini truckers – they love fabricating.  Also available completely welded to save a bit of time.
  • Alignment tabs.  No guesswork when it comes to squaring it up.  Easy to clamp while you’re tacking it together.
  • Sits on outside top corner of frame rail.  If you choose to grind the welds, you’ll have a smooth transition from the notch kit to your frame rails.
  • Integral inner boxing plates.  The inner plates weld to both the upper and lower flange of a C channel frame rail for strength.
  • Weld it off the frame.  The majority of the welding is done on your bench, where you can position the piece for the best weld.  When you’re done welding the notch, just set it on the frame rail and weld it in place.

If you have any questions about the kit, please send us an email or call toll-free: 1-888-648-2150.

Please click here for installation photos on an S10 frame.

Click here to go to our web store.

If you’re looking for a standard C notch fill piece, try one of these.

Almost ready to release…

I’m heading over to a local garage to take some install pics on Wednesday, and then I hope to post more information.

If you’re in the mini truck scene, keep watching…

New Product (teaser)

I don’t have much to show at this point, and I think only a few people knew we were even looking at doing these, but I have a few here as of five minutes ago. I’ll see how they work, we’ll deliver the first one locally for some install shots then you’ll hear more about it!

Big Bushing kits are big

FYI

For a product that hasn’t even made it in the paper catalog yet (sheesh), our big bushing four link kits are getting pretty popular!  So popular, in fact, that they outsold our standard bushing kits for the past 30 days or so.  With 3/4-16 threaded adjusters instead of 5/8-18 and 1-3/4″ wide bushings instead of about 1-3/8″, they’re a bit beefier, but otherwise the same.

Large adjuster:

Standard adjuster:

Introducing 4.6 Ford motor mounts

We’re excited to announce our new universal fit Ford motor mount kit for the 4.6L engine.  Available completely tig welded or ready-to-weld in kit format to save some labor dollars.

View the 4.6 motor mounts in our web store.

#214600

Shown installed in a '54 Ford.

Click here for some info from Wikipedia on the Modular engine by Ford.

New large bushing triangulated four link kit

You remember our regular old four link kit that we’ve been making for over 25 years?  It’s become the smaller sibling with the introduction of our large bushing four link kits.  We first showed you the parallel version, and now we’re all set with a triangulated version!  It’s a bit beefier with 3/4-16 adjusters and 1-5/8″ bushings.

Click here to check them all out.

Triangulated four link kit

Triangulated four link kit

New Brake/Clutch Pedal Videos

Recently, there was a tiny mis-communication here, and both Paul and I were working on the same customers tech question.  I got a phone call from the customer, and my dad had an email.  It was kind of funny because we both thought we were working on the same problem for a different customer, at the same time.  Here is what we both came up with: