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NEW PRODUCT: Through-frame tie rod end mount

Eliminating the large hole on the inside of the frame rail was the main goal when we set out to design a new style of through-frame tie rod end mount. Now you can have the traditional looks of a tie rod end on your hairpins or split wishbones with a smooth inside frame rail. Our unique double-taper design draws the tie rod into a weld-in frame bung using a 1/2″ button head bolt.

Please check out the kit on our web store. It’s only $58. http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/through-frame-hairpin-mount-kit/

Installed #1

Installed #1

Introducing: 3″ x 3″ Frame Curves

We’re now shipping 3″ x 3″ frame curves. These 90° bends make it easy to create flowing mandrel-bent-looking frame rails. Supplied in four pieces,the alignment tabs make it easy to clamp them together. Once they’re welded, you can grind them smooth and the radius will match a hollow structural tube- the transition will be seamless!

$41 for 90°. Click here to go to our web store: https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/frame-curves/

New Product: Model ‘A’ Mustang II Crossmember

Classic Rods & More (Lynchburg, VA) and Welder Series have introduced a proven MII IFS kit that you can weld yourself for your 1928-31 Ford Model A that will give you a low stance and maintain your wheels in the center of the front fenders. This IFS has been produced and used for a number of years by one of the owners of Classic Rods & More and maintains the stock MII geometry. It does not require bubbling the front fenders in order to clear the A-Arms. Front end alignment is achieved by using stock MII specifications. The kit will not require any additional manufacturing to install. Once the kit is welded just place the crossmember on the front axle centerline, place the tower centerline on the same front axle centerline on the outside of the frame rails and weld in place. The crossmember kit is available from Welder Series (#WS283120), or you can buy a hub-to-hub kit from Classic Rods & More from $1600.
Also available from other Welder Series dealers.

Lower A-Arm Mounting Kit

Just in case you bought a set of Mustang II control arms that didn’t come with the spacer tubes and gussets, we’ve got you covered.

This kit includes four tubes (two for inside the crossmember and two for behind the crossmember) and two gussets to reinforce the rear tubes.

Lower A-Arm Mounting Kit

Got some swap meet Mustang II tubular lower arms that didn't come with the spacers and gussets? Here are the pieces you need.

$47.00

Got some swap meet tubular lower arms that didn’t come with the spacers and gussets?  Or did the the arms you bought new not include the spacers?  Here is a kit that includes the spacers and gussets you need.  #213070

Products related to "Lower A-Arm Mounting Kit"

New Product: Rear Coil Over/ Shock Brackets

We called these new brackets “rear coil over/ shock brackets” because they’re great at mounting coilovers or shocks to your rear axle. It’s a handy name. On the other hand, my name says nothing about me. “DW” isn’t even a word. What was I talking about?

Made from 3/16″ folded steel, these brackets are available individually or as part of a coilover bracket kit. As a coil over bracket, they include a 1″ x 1″ steel block that gets welded inside the bracket to support the coil over bolt.

 

Rear coil over bracket kitCoil over brackets with bolt kit, $88 as shown.

 

 

Coil over bracket

 

 

 

Shock BracketShock bracket, $20 each.

 

 

1935-40 Ford Boxing Plates

New Product!

Boxing plates for your 35-40 Ford car (& ’41 pickup).  Boxes from just in front of the front crossmember to behind the rear crossmember, in two pieces so they’re easier to ship and manage.  10 gauge steel; the same as the frame rails.

$186/set of four, plus $15 for shipping.

Click here to check them out in our web store.

We also have boxing plates for just the front of your chassis, if you’re installing a Mustang II kit in your 35-40.

New Product: Threaded Spacers

We just added two threaded spacers to our web store – 1″ OD, 1-1/2″ long, one threaded 5/8-18 and the other 3/4-16.  $5/each.  Click the image to check out our threaded spacers on the Welder Series online store.

New Product: Rear Crossmember Kit for Coil-Overs

Crossmember kit to mount the top of coil-overs or ShockWaves in any frame that is 46″ or less between the frame rails. The 1-1/2″ square tube is 46″ long and will have to be cut to fit between the frame boxing plates. Anti-crush tubes are 1″ diameter, 2″ long for a 5/8″ bolt. Grade 5 bolts, 4-1/2″ long with washers and nuts are included.  Click on the picture to visit our web store.

New Product: Mustang II Rack Mount

We’re doing these a bit differently than we used to – providing them flat, so you can put your adjustable wrench to use for less than a minute and fold the sides then weld up the corners.  They work well for other kinds of mounts, too… one local builder used them for tie down strap anchor points.

They’re just $8.00 each.  Click here to check them out in our web store.  Here’s a video:

New store item: Nutserts

These inserts are great for adding threads to a blind hole, or even adding threads to a painted surface.  There is a special tool typically used to crimp them in place, but I found this tip to do it without the tool:

Nutsert Installation

by Brian Brown
This is how I install nutserts without the special tool.

Start out with a strip of 12 gauge steel about 12″ X 1″. Near the end drill a clearance hole of the appropriate size for a bolt that fits the nutsert.

Get a long bolt (same thread size as the nutsert), nut and flat washer.

Thread the nut onto the bolt until it’s near the head of the bolt. Slide the flat washer onto the bolt. Now stick the end of the bolt through the hole in the steel strip.

Thread the nutsert onto the end of the bolt until the end of the bolt is flush with the bottom of the nutsert. Slide the steel strip and the flat washer up against the face of the nutsert.

Lubricate the bolt thread that’s now exposed between the nut and the flat washer with a molybdenum lubricant (doing it at this point minimizes getting lubricant on the nutsert threads). Thread the nut down until it touches the flatwasher.

Push the nutsert into its hole.

Use two wrenches. One to hold the head of the bolt stationary. One to turn the nut. The steel strip should also be held stationary.

*** This is the key point *** By holding the steel strip and the bolt stationary, there will be no twisting force applied to the nutsert as it is tightened. As the nut is turned, the bolt will be pulled straight out, collapsing and seating the nutsert.

When the nutsert is very tightly seated, loosen the nut a little and then unthread the bolt from the nutsert.

Using this method with the steel strip, you should have no problem with nutserts being loose. I’ve installed many nutserts this way without any problem.

I hope this helps.

Click on the picture to go to our web store.

$0.50/each