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Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in your anti roll/sway bar kit you have, I am wondering if it is good for the street or only for racing. I have seen other companies say for racing only, so I am just curious.
Bill
Dear Bill…
Bill, our sway bar, and all Welder Series parts, are designed for street rod/hot rod applications. We have this bar on our ’32 Ford coupe. The sway bar is probably lighter than most racers would want.
Thanks for asking.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m looking to do a parallel 4 bar setup on my 1956 Buick. It has the X-frame that looks exactly like what you have pictured here.
I did some measurements and I think I need bars of length between 36-38″ Does this seem too long? How long were the bars in that above picture?
Thanks
Michael
Dear Michael…
Michael, this is a local car and the bars were standard length, about 25″ c-c. We can make custom bars for you if you need them. 36″ is getting long but is still do-able.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Ok, I will have to measure again maybe I can mount them before the cut outs for the exhaust instead. Also I’m a HAMB Alliance member and noticed you offer a discount, how would I go about applying that when I place the order?
I did some re-measuring. I think I only need 30″ bars. Is it possible to get the parallel kit in welded fashion but have the frame brackets either left un-welded, or welded at an angle since I’ll be mounting it to an x-frame like you have in the picture on the blog? Also how can I go about ordering it this custom way, by phone?
Dear Michael…
Michael, a quote is attached for the rear 4-link as I think you want it. It starts as a ready-to-weld kit. This will let you weld the frame brackets the way you want them. It also means you will have to weld the coil-over bolt support blocks in the rear axle brackets. This is a small job. We have deducted the standard bars and adjusters and quoted welded, custom-length bars and welded adjusters. Obviously, we have to get together on the bar length. The tubes on the bars and adjusters would be welded at 90 degrees to the bar axis. I have a feeling that the Buick in the picture got angled adjusters, but we don’t do them in the large format. (We could, as a special order, if you give us the angle you want.)
What will you do for a Panhard bar?
The other thing we need is your Alliance name, please. I have shown the discount on the quote, but this has to be confirmed.
Thanks for your interest in Welder Series parts for your project.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Paul, we just spoke, I have a 1954 Chevy 5 window truck. I’m interested in buying C-notches, air bag brackets, shock brackets and the 4 link that you told me about and whatever else you think I need for the rear end.. I’m starting at the back first Paul. So email me back in what you think I’ll need thanks.
If you want to talk about these parts, please give me a call (1-888-648-2150) or send an email.
Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in buying this product, but I am unsure if it contains everything I need, can you give me a parts list for this kit? That would be wonderful.
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-kit-rear-8-8-ford/
I am using a 67 chevelle rearend with the stock triangulate four link setup, and I am just trying to make sure I can use the existing top mounts.
Thanks for your help!
Dear Alexander…
The parts in this kit are:
Frame brackets for the upper and lower bars.
Lower bars with one end adjustable. The other end has a sleeve for the urethane bushing.
Upper bars with one end adjustable. The other (axle) end has a bracket that wraps around the stock GM bushing on the axle differential casting. This bracket must be welded to the bar after the bar has been cut to length. It might be necessary to drill this bracket to the correct bolt size.
Axle brackets for the lower bars. The brackets have holes to mount coil-overs or shocks.
Urethane bushings and hardware. Bolts and nuts for the axle end of the upper bar are not included. (The stock GM bolt & nut can be used.)
Installation instructions.
The kit is available in component pieces that you would weld together or with all welding done that can be done by our shop.
Thanks for asking. I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hi I’m going to narrow the frame on my 50 studebaker car so I can pro street it which would you recommend a 4 link with a panhard bar or a triangulated 4 link without the panhard I like the triangulated better but I’m not sure which is stronger the car is putting out around 350 to 400 H.P.
Thanks Jim
Dear Jim…
Jim, there’s not much difference, strength wise, between the parallel and the triangulated kits. If you don’t want or need the adjustments of the Pro/Street kit (http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-kit-prostreet/), I’d suggest you go with the kit you like best.
The parallel kit is easier to install and easier to adjust because the Panhard does the left-to-right without changing the pinion angle or the squareness of the rear end to the frame centerline. The Panhard might be fairly short, depending on how narrow the frame is. You could use the 2184 (http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-universal-rear/) kit to keep the bar as long as possible.
The triangulated kit is less money, because there’s no Panhard to buy. You might consider running the upper bars from just inside the frame to a crossmember above the driveshaft. Weld the kit’s upper bar frame brackets to this crossmember. This will give more stability to the upper triangulation.
In either case, since the car will be Pro/Street, you should consider adding a gusset to the lower bar bracket.
I hope this helps with your decision. Please ask if you have other questions.
Dear Welder Series…
Thanks for answering my e-mail only I’m not sure about the, (gusset to the lower bar bracket) you mentioned is there anyplace on the website with a photo?
Also I’m guessing the car is going to weigh around 3,000 lbs. estimated. Is there a specific triangulated 4 bar kit for that size of a car?
Thanks again Jim
Dear Jim…
There aren’t pictures of the lower bracket gusset. This is just a suggestion if you plan to beat on the car with stickier tires.
The 318500 kit is a versatile triangular rear 4-link that would work fine.
Thanks for getting back to me.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I am building a 89 Chevy c1500 street/drag I am wanting to go with a narrower rear end and do a 4-link set up. I was wondering what 4 link set up would you recommend for me?
Dear Jon…
Our pro/street rear 4-link can be set up so the bars are parallel for street driving or they can be adjusted to get the instant center that you want for racing. The kit comes with urethane bushed bars. Serious racers use these on the street but change them to rod ends for the track.
The link to our site is http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-kit-prostreet/ .
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1951 Chevrolet truck 1/2 ton putting a 2002 Chevy S10 4×4 Blazer 8.5 ring gear rear w/disc brakes in. I want to use the 4 link system, which one of yours will work easiest and best?
Thank you!
Dear Don…
Don, the decision regarding a parallel or a triangulated rear 4-link is somewhat philosophical. Here is my explanation:
Both kits do a good job of locating the rear end, holding it in place, and letting the suspension work.
The triangulated kit costs less than the parallel kit because a Panhard bar is not required.
The parallel kit does require a Panhard kit (about $100.00). The parallel kit is easier to adjust for squaring the rear axle to the frame center line, and centering the frame left-to-right.
The Panhard bar does move the frame left-to-right as the frame goes up and down, but if a straight Panhard bar is installed level, this amount is insignificant (about 1/8″ with a 19″ bar) for normal suspension travel.
I hope this helps you decide. Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul I am in the middle of installing one of your triangulated four links. How much angle do I need on the upper part. (angle from frame rail to rear housing if looking from top). If I have to shorten the upper bars what would you suggest the min. Length be? Thanks
Dear Derek…
Derek, the upper bar frame bracket is designed to mount the bar at 27 degrees off of the frame. It might be hard to reduce this angle very much and still put a wrench on the nut, if the nut will even go on. Another option might be to mount the axle end of the upper bars just inside the frame rails and angle them towards the frame centerline. Then add a new crossmember and mount the frame brackets to it. This way the bars can stay at their original length. As the bars get shorter, the pinion angle changes more dramatically as the suspension works. I hope this helps.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
I am building a 1989 Chevy c1500 street/drag. I am wanting to go with a narrower rear end and do a 4-link set up. I was wondering what 4 link set up would you recommend for me.
Dear Jon…
Our pro/street rear 4-link can be set up so the bars are parallel for street driving or they can be adjusted to get the instant center that you want for racing. The kit comes with urethane bushed bars. Serious racers use these on the street but change them to rod ends for the track.
The link to our site is http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-kit-prostreet/.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.
Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I’m looking to purchase your triangulated 4 link for my 52 Pontiac. I will need to install the coil overs in front of the axle, do you have an axle mount to accomplish this?
Thanks.
Dear Joe…
Joe, if there is room, you could us the coil-over bracket shown at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/axle-bracket-kit-for-coil-overs/, mounted on the front side of the axle.
Let me know if you fell this will, or won’t, work in your application.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
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