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Dear Welder Series…
I need to know if your universe triangulated or 4 link parallel would work on my 1969 F-100. I wanted to move from the leaf spring to coil over shock system and reduced ride height.
Fred
Dear Fred…
Fred, the installation sheets are at the bottom of the description in the web store. The dimensions should help you to see any areas that might be a problem. Here are links to the two kits:
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-parallel-universal
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/
I think either kit will work fine on your Ford. Please ask again if you have other questions.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I contacted you last year before Christmas sometime and was going to order up a rear 4 link with air bag brackets. Since then things have changed and now I will be doing the same thing but with a smaller axle. It is the gm 8.5″ from an S10. The axle tube dimension is less than what your brackets are cut for. Do you have a different axle bracket to fit the smaller axle tube diameter? Or do you have a suggestion for my problem?
thanks,
Dennis
Dear Dennis…
Builders have used a short length of tubing, 3″ O.D. and the same I.D. as your axle tube, as a bushing. Split the tube into 2 “C” halves. This will make up the difference in the axle to bracket diameter. It will also spread the load over a wider area for more strength.
Thanks for asking, Dennis.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul,
thanks for getting back so soon. This is going to be installed on a 57 GMC truck. I am thinking the bars should be sort of parallel with the road at ride height, which means the lower bar will be below the frame quite a bit. Do you make a frame bracket for these trucks?
thanks,
Dennis
Dear Dennis…
I have a similar bracket that was designed for the Ford F1 truck. One bar mounts just above the bottom of the frame rail and the other is lower. Will check it out when I get a few minutes.
Thanks for asking.
Paul
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 68 Chevy c10 pickup that I would like to replace the trailing arms w an adjustable 4 link setup using a Chevy 10 bolt rear. I would like to delete the Panhard bar also.
What do you recommend? Do you have a complete kit w shocks and springs?
Thanks Chris
Dear Chris…
If you want to eliminate the Panhard bar, our triangulated kit would be a good way to go, Chris. You can get details at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated.
If your GM 10 bolt rear end has the ears on the differential case, you could look at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-kit-rear-8-8-ford/ .
I’d suggest the big bushing kit.
Sorry, we don’t sell coil-overs.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1980 MGB and am installing a narrowed Ford 8.8 rear-end. I have a leaf spring original rear suspension and want to install a 4-link to my 8.8, with coil over shocks. Can you help me?
Dave
Dear Dave…
Dave, our (WS)222501 parallel rear 4-link kit could be used with a Panhard bar, kit (WS)2184. If your 8.8 has the ears on the case for the stock triangulated upper bars, our (WS)318588 can be used. This is a fairly new kit that has special brackets for the 8.8″ upper bushings. The upper bars have to be cut to length and then the bracket gets welded to the bar. This allows for different frame widths.
The WS222501 and the WS318588 each costs $340.00. The welded versions cost $390.00. The Panhard kit costs $93.00 ready to weld and $115.00 welded.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi there
I’m working on figuring out ride height and road clearance for my 51 Chevy if I use your MII set up and have a few questions, hoping you can assist.
1. For your MII front crossmember, what is the distance from the underside of the chevy frame to the bottom of the crossmember and what should a reasonable /safe clearance below the crossmember to the road be?
2. What is the distance from the spindle centerline to the underside of the crossmember. (assuming 2” drop spindle)
I am trying to determine from this what size wheel/tire size should be.
3. For the rear suspension, triangulated 4 link kit or individual pieces, can you please clarify the dimensions of your bars so I can figure out where they will attach to my frame?.
Your drawing indicates the lower bar should be 27-1/8 from the axle centerline but you list a 27-7/8 bar and then 23-1/8 bar and nothing in between.
Are dimensions nominally center to center on the bushings? Or center of bushing to edge of notch?
4. The upper bar should attach about 15 from the axle centerline according to your drawing so I want to see where that would end up mounting on the axle.
Can you clarify roughly what angle in plan view the upper bars are relative to the axle or roughly what length the upper bars are so I can figure out where they will sit and if that is similar to your drawing showing the bars 2-1/8 above the axle centerline?
Thanks very much for your assistance.!!
Steve
Dear Steve…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project, Steve.
I suggest you choose the tire size that you feel is best for your project, rather than work from ground clearance up. Our crossmember can be notched to accommodate the ride height you want with the tire size you choose.
I’m going to duck the ground clearance question… This depends on the roads you travel as well as possible laws in your area. NSRA has a practical suggestion with their scrub line definition. This is defined at http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms/pub_45/appendix.pdf . Some areas say the line should be drawn from wheel rim to wheel rim and no suspension component should below that line.
With a 2″ dropped spindle, it is 7-1/4″ from spindle c/l to the bottom of our crossmember.
The dimensions on the triangulated rear 4-link installation sheets are correct. The assumption is that you know where the axle centerline is but don’t know where our axle bracket locates the urethane bushing. The bar length is from the center of the urethane bushing tube to the threaded end of the bar. The adjuster is not included in this length. Add 1-3/4″ for the large bushing adjuster. Note that the lower bar for the triangulated kit is the 23-1/8″ bar. (The 27-7/8″ bar is 7/8″ diameter and is used in our universal rear Panhard kit and the hiboy front 4-link kit.)
The frame brackets for the upper bars will likely have to be trimmed to the angle suited to your frame width and rear axle.
Thanks for these questions. I hope this info, and the install sheets online help you.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m after a rear 4 link for my 65 mustang for general road use, no racing, do you have a setup similar to [the other guys] setups & if so prices & cost of shipping to California 90200, USA, unless you good rates to New Zealand, if you can help I’ll phone you.
thanks Rob.
Dear Rob…
Rob, Welder Series has a parallel and a triangulated rear 4-link. Both kits are “universal”, meaning they can be used in a wide range of applications, but they require modifications (mainly bar length) to use in your Mustang.
The kits are at http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/ and http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-parallel-universal/ . The parallel kit needs a Panhard bar, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/panhard-kit-universal-rear/ .
Freight cost to California would be 10% of the order total with a minimum charge of $15 and a maximum charge of $60.00. All of our prices are in Canadian Dollars. We can ship to New Zealand by Parcel Post and would quote a rate based on what you would like to order.
We are working hard at getting the website picture issues resolved.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Hello;
I was wondering if your 4 Link set up will work with a Dana 70 rear end?
I’m building a Hot Rod ’39 Chevy Truck. I will be using your Mustang II front system and was hoping that your 4 link will work. I would order them at the same time if it will work. It has a 1 & 1/2 ton frame.
Thanks
Bruce
Dear Bruce…
The rear 4-link kits will be fine, Bruce. The axle brackets are made for 3″ diameter tubes, but can be opened up if your tubes are the larger 3-1/2″ diameter.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for you truck.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Mr.Paul Horton.
Found you on the HAMB O’Dex. I have a 1952 Buick Special Lead Sled project. I am at the point where I am in need of rear shock brackets. I have a Ford 9″ rear end installed on a custom 2-link set -up. The fabricator basically fell of the face of the earth before he finished the job. I need upper and lower shock brackets and maybe an upper shock mounting bar. Does this sound like something you can help me with….? What kind of information/measurements do you need from me to get this figured out…..? Please advise…..
thank you, Russell
Dear Russel…
Russ, we have lower shock mounts, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-shock-mount-lower/ , that would weld to your 9″ Ford rear end. For the upper shock mounts, how about our crossmember, http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-crossmember-kit/ ? This crossmember is available with either 7/16″ or 5/8″ sleeves. Choose the size that will work with the shocks you get. The crossmember tube is 46″ long. Check the width of your frame to be sure this is long enough.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I could use some help with the proper installation of the Urethane Bushing set. I know the purpose of the bushing, but guess I really do not understand how the bushing is suppose to function. I assume there is a pivot point, if so, where? Does the Urethane Bushing pivot in the outer tube and/or the inner sleeve or does the inner sleeve pivot on the through bolt. Are any of the above assumptions correct?
When installing bushing sets in my triangular bars I started second guessing what I was trying to accomplish. I could use washers on the through bolt that slid over the inner tube and crushed the bushing or I could use washers with a small enough ID that would bottom against the inner sleeve not crushing the bushing. I think in some instances washers are not used, as would be the case with your Four Link Kit #218500, but would probably be used with the Panhard Axle Bracket #2184. Can you explain to me the proper way/ways to install the bushing set?
Thanks
Bill
Dear Bill…
Bill, when the bolt and nut are tightened, the urethane bushing inner sleeve is under compression and should not turn. Our parallel and triangulated rear 4-link kits mount the urethane bushing in double shear. Plates on each side of the bushing means 2 plates. Hence, “double shear”. Washers are not required on the shoulder of the bushing.
The 2184 rear Panhard axle bracket mounts the bushing in a supported single shear. The tube gives the bolt support instead of having a plate on both sides of the bushing. The washers on each side of the urethane bushing assembly in the 2184 kit axle bracket are to prevent the bushing from slipping over either the 7/8″ diameter tube in the bracket or the head of the bolt or nut, depending on how the fastener is oriented.
Thanks for asking.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I love your website. I have a 1978 trans am I am building a 4 link for. It weighs aprox 3800 lbs and around 500 hp. I’m not looking to drag race or auto cross the car, but I do have air ride shock waves. I was looking at your big bushing triangulated but all I need are the axle mounts, bars, bushings, and some upper shock mounts. I wouldn’t need the axle tabs or either frame mounts. The upper bars are around 9.25 inches eye to eye and the lower are 24.5 inches eye to eye.
Please let me know what my best option would be.
thank you Brad
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