Dear Welder Series…
Can you list the “Welder Series” parts I would require to install a brake and clutch pedal assembly in a 34 Ford truck cab. I would like a hanging pedal for both brake and clutch. I saw how one or customers converted a brake master bracket to hang. This is what I think I need. Do you have these as a kit yet or can you provide a drawing for the set up?
Many thanks.
Bolts, nuts, and washers will be needed to attach the pedals to the bracket. We have these in stock and can supply them once we know what you will be using. We can take a picture that will explain how this would go together. It would be a good idea to connect the bracket to the dash for extra support.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts for your project.
Dear Welder Series…
Hi recieved your catalog building a 1935 Chev pickup streetrod just getting an order together need some measurements before hand. Kit #WS24806 booster bracket and pedal kit what is distance off frame to center of booster? On your offset pedal how much offset center pin to center of pedal mount? Also kit #2220 four link kit axle center to center of front bushing mount? thanks so much Tony
Dear Tony…
Here are some links to expand on my answers, Tony…
The booster center is 4-1/4″ off of the boxing plate. http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/brake-booster-bracket-formed-24801/
The pedal pad mounting hole is 2-1/4″ towards the center of the frame from the booster center. (I hope that’s the answer to your question.)
The pedal arm comes through the floor 1″ towards the center of the frame from the booster center and the arm is 3/8″ thick. The floor slot should have clearance around the 1″ – 1-3/8″ pedal.
On our rear 4-link kit 2220 (and 222501), the center of the front bushing will be about 27-5/8″ to 28″ ahead of axle center. http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-parallel-universal/ Scroll down to the instructions link.
Dear Welder Series…
Just was curious if you had any pics of the part #248300 booster bracket with brake and clutch pedal kit. Looking to put a hydraulic clutch and brake setup under my floor in my 51 shoebox. I ordered my notch from you last year and loved it and just noticed this in the catalog you included.
Thanks, Nick
Dear Welder Series…
Hope you had a great Christmas and have a happy New Year!
I had a question as to whether or not you have, or can come up with, a combination brake and clutch kit utilizing a GM style brake master cylinder and a Wilwood single reservoir clutch master cylinder to be installed in a T Bucket with straight frame rails.
If you do not have something already, what would be involved ($$$) in coming up with such an item, if you think you would want to mess this such a thing?
My thinking is, by utilizing a hydraulic clutch the problem with clutch linkage is done away with, and the pedal configuration can be worked out within the confines of a T Bucket interior, I think.
Thanks in advance for you time and consideration.
Any suggestions you may have would be greatly appreciated as I am determined to have a four speed T Bucket!
Joe
Dear Joe…
Thanks for asking, Joe. Check the video almost at the bottom of http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/booster-bracket-pedal-kit/ . This bracket will take a GM master cylinder. Holes could be drilled for the Wilwood clutch master. The pedals can be traded out for the 21890 straight up brake pedal arms. It would cost a little over $200. (I’ll check this out tomorrow for you.)
I see you have your brake pedal brackets kits available, but I was curious if you had anything to serve both a hydraulic brake AND clutch pedal kit. (IE a two pedal design with opposite direction offsets etc) Do let me know if you can help! I am currently putting a 1947 Ford Truck Body on a GM 2 ton chassis with a Cummins motor and I am looking for an original looking solution to having a hydraulic clutch and hydroboost brakes.)
Mike
Dear Mike…
Please go to the catalog pdf file, http://www.welderseries.com/hardcopy/weldercat.pdf , page 21. When people buy this kit, we usually suggest substituting, in the brake pedal/master cylinder bracket kit, a brake pedal with no offset so the pedals can be offset symmetrically to clear the steering column. This reduces the price slightly.
I hope this helps. Please write again if you have other questions.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Paul Horton
update: We do have the brake/ clutch pedal assembly in the web store – click here, then check out the youtube video.
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1934 Plymouth coupe I am building into a street rod. I have ECI front Granada discs on a Fat Man front end. I am running 10″ rear drums on an 8 inch Ford rear and have a 7″ single booster with a 1″ ECI master cylinder [corvette style]. I see you show a 4.5 inch pedal ratio for power brakes. Would that be what I need with a 7″ single booster also? I bought an older Master power setup that came with a 6.1 pedal. The car is small block Mopar and auto. Thanks for any help. Dave
Dear Dave…
Dave, you can use the pedal that you have. The 4.5:1 ratio works well with power brakes, but you should be o.k. with that 6:1, too. The pedal pressure will be lighter and the pedal will travel farther before the brakes actuate.
Dear Welder Series…
I’m wanting to do this as shown in your videos. I have all the parts in my shopping cart except the tube that holds the bushing. Not sure which one I should order.
Douglass
Dear Douglass…
Douglass, use #10092 tube in the pedal arm for the two #20267 bushing halves.
Dear Welder Series…
Dear Sir,
Can you tell me if I could bolt or weld on the brake/master cylinder bracket to the original unboxed 1932 ford chassis or explain me how to do without boxing the chassis ?
regards,
Filip
Dear Filip…
If you plan to leave the stock K-member in the frame and use a flathead, it might be best to leave the stock pedal in place and use a pushrod back to our master cylinder mount.
Our weld-on bracket can be bolted to an unboxed frame by making a channel to fit inside the frame rails. The channel can be made by welding 3 pieces of plate together. Drill 2 holes in the top and bottom legs of the frame rails and countersink the frame to use flat head Allen bolts. Weld the master cylinder mount to the channel.
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