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Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in your anti roll/sway bar kit you have, I am wondering if it is good for the street or only for racing. I have seen other companies say for racing only, so I am just curious.
Bill
Dear Bill…
Bill, our sway bar, and all Welder Series parts, are designed for street rod/hot rod applications. We have this bar on our ’32 Ford coupe. The sway bar is probably lighter than most racers would want.
Thanks for asking.
Dear Welder Series…
I have a 1974 triumph spitfire with a sbc, it has a frame width of 19″ and a track width of 59.5″, i would like to install your mustang 2 crossmember do you see any reason why your 56″ would not work if I narrow it? Thanks for your help, also could you send me your catalog.
Dear Randy…
Randy, I’d like to check a couple of things…
We measure track with as the distance from one wheel mounting face to the other side wheel mounting face. 59-1/2″ sounds like too much for a Spitfire. Please check this.
The frame width, outside to outside, must be at least 26″ to mount the upper towers.
I’m confident that you will be able to put our crossmember in your frame, but it will require some frame mods to do it.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Paul I rechecked the track it’s 49.5 in what kind of frame mods would have to be done?
Dear Randy…
Sounds like the frame width is going to be ok, Randy. Minimum width for a 56″ kit (actually 56-1/2″) is 26″. You want 7″ less (49-1/2), so the minimum frame width would be 19″. There will be other “ambushes” along the way, but see how Grant Schwartz did the Volvo at http://www.schwartzwelding.com/gallery/cars/20.html for some ideas.
We will get a catalog in the mail.
Thanks for looking at our parts.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I’m looking to do a parallel 4 bar setup on my 1956 Buick. It has the X-frame that looks exactly like what you have pictured here.
I did some measurements and I think I need bars of length between 36-38″ Does this seem too long? How long were the bars in that above picture?
Thanks
Michael
Dear Michael…
Michael, this is a local car and the bars were standard length, about 25″ c-c. We can make custom bars for you if you need them. 36″ is getting long but is still do-able.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.
Dear Welder Series…
Ok, I will have to measure again maybe I can mount them before the cut outs for the exhaust instead. Also I’m a HAMB Alliance member and noticed you offer a discount, how would I go about applying that when I place the order?
I did some re-measuring. I think I only need 30″ bars. Is it possible to get the parallel kit in welded fashion but have the frame brackets either left un-welded, or welded at an angle since I’ll be mounting it to an x-frame like you have in the picture on the blog? Also how can I go about ordering it this custom way, by phone?
Dear Michael…
Michael, a quote is attached for the rear 4-link as I think you want it. It starts as a ready-to-weld kit. This will let you weld the frame brackets the way you want them. It also means you will have to weld the coil-over bolt support blocks in the rear axle brackets. This is a small job. We have deducted the standard bars and adjusters and quoted welded, custom-length bars and welded adjusters. Obviously, we have to get together on the bar length. The tubes on the bars and adjusters would be welded at 90 degrees to the bar axis. I have a feeling that the Buick in the picture got angled adjusters, but we don’t do them in the large format. (We could, as a special order, if you give us the angle you want.)
What will you do for a Panhard bar?
The other thing we need is your Alliance name, please. I have shown the discount on the quote, but this has to be confirmed.
Thanks for your interest in Welder Series parts for your project.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
Paul, we just spoke, I have a 1954 Chevy 5 window truck. I’m interested in buying C-notches, air bag brackets, shock brackets and the 4 link that you told me about and whatever else you think I need for the rear end.. I’m starting at the back first Paul. So email me back in what you think I’ll need thanks.
If you want to talk about these parts, please give me a call (1-888-648-2150) or send an email.
Dear Welder Series…
I’ve seen that you don’t want to mix solid mounts with rubber mounts. For instance I have a rubber trans mount, so I wouldn’t use solid motor mounts. Any idea how the urethane mounts would fit into the equation?
Dear Chris…
Chris, in our experience, the urethane engine mounts are compatible with a rubber transmission mount. Many of the cars we built used this combination.
Thanks for asking.
Dear Welder Series…
Just wanted to say thanks again for a smooth transaction.
Also wanted to let you guys know I got 3 catalogs with my order, not a bother really but thought I’d let you know so you’re not wasting them!
Dear Karman…
Thanks for this note, Karman. We send the catalogs because customers told us friends were always “borrowing” the one we sent out, but not returning it. If someone asks for one (or two) now, you can give them out and still have one on your bench.
I hope we can help with other parts for your projects.
Dear Welder Series…
I have already stripped my truck down to the bare chassis and am looking to purchase an IFS for the front end. With the suspension now out of the chassis and gone to the scrap yard (wasn’t thinking there) can I center the new suspension by measuring from the front spring mounting holes to the rear spring brackets or should I re-position the cab and fenders on the chassis to center the wheels? The chassis goes to the sandblaster on Thursday and then I’m boxing it and getting it ready for your parts to go on. Thanks in advance for your help with this… you are going to make a few dollars off of this build for sure.
Dear Writer…
I always like to mock things up so I know that the look is what I want. It does take longer, but gives better odds that things don’t have to be undone and redone.
Thanks for asking.
Dear Welder Series…
Hello Customer,
Greetings to you, well I would like to know whether you sell RUBBER BUCKET. Let me know the models,sizes and prices of them. Also I would like to know whether you accept credit card payment. Hope to hear back from you soon.
Best Regards,
Tommy Harrison
Dear Tommy…
Thanks very much for your time and personal request for RUBBER BUCKET. I appreciate your inquiry; I’ve been known to occasionally question the Home Depot salesman as to the availability of cross country skis at their fine store. While our product line is rather large, containing (no pun intended) many varieties of gussets, tabs, and other parts to make building a hot rod a little easier, we unfortunately have not diversified to the point of offering RUBBER BUCKET at this point. In fact, we don’t even sell Mustang II control arms or spindles. My grandpa used to say “DW, you need to get into the RUBBER BUCKET business. If you don’t, some day someone will be beating down your door (they spoke of doors back then… now it would be “beating down your inbox”) wanting all different sizes, and the prices of RUBBER BUCKET, and you won’t have any RUBBER BUCKET to sell. Alternatively, you could sell hot rod parts.”
You see, Tommy, my grandpa was right. He knew that the only alternative to selling many models and sizes of RUBBER BUCKET was to do something I enjoyed.
I took the liberty of doing a quick Google search for you and came up with a nicely made RUBBER BUCKET for equestrian purposes. I’m not sure if you’re into horses or hot rods… maybe that’s why you were asking for different models. I didn’t check if they have a hot rod RUBBER BUCKET. http://kioskkiosk.com/products/rubber-bucket
Thanks again for your time.
DW Horton
p.s. Sorry, I forgot to mention that we do accept credit card payment (and PayPal).
Dear Welder Series…
I am interested in buying this product, but I am unsure if it contains everything I need, can you give me a parts list for this kit? That would be wonderful.
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/four-link-kit-rear-8-8-ford/
I am using a 67 chevelle rearend with the stock triangulate four link setup, and I am just trying to make sure I can use the existing top mounts.
Thanks for your help!
Dear Alexander…
The parts in this kit are:
Frame brackets for the upper and lower bars.
Lower bars with one end adjustable. The other end has a sleeve for the urethane bushing.
Upper bars with one end adjustable. The other (axle) end has a bracket that wraps around the stock GM bushing on the axle differential casting. This bracket must be welded to the bar after the bar has been cut to length. It might be necessary to drill this bracket to the correct bolt size.
Axle brackets for the lower bars. The brackets have holes to mount coil-overs or shocks.
Urethane bushings and hardware. Bolts and nuts for the axle end of the upper bar are not included. (The stock GM bolt & nut can be used.)
Installation instructions.
The kit is available in component pieces that you would weld together or with all welding done that can be done by our shop.
Thanks for asking. I hope we can help with your project.
Paul Horton
Dear Welder Series…
I want to start purchasing the parts to the Mustang II kit, I have a 51 Chevy Coupe. I was looking at this: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/crossmember-plate-mustang-ii-reartop/
I have a couple questions.
1.What track width do I select for that car? I’m probably going to run stock steel wheels and 640 Bias Ply tires.
2. When I do purchase the upper spring hat, will it allow me use air bags??
Dear Drew…
Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts, Drew. The 56″ track width is right for your Chev. The kit for stock-type springs will let you use air bags. The bag companies have a top hat looking adapter.
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