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Jeff (aka “Biscuit Eater” on the HAMB) is working on his first hot rod project – a ’29 Ford pickup. Recently, he bought some Welder Series parts and sent some pictures of his progress.
Thanks for using our parts, Jeff.
Jeff used our 28″ wide flat front crossmember… see how the extra-long channel creates the C notch for the spring?
You can see our driveshaft loop kit peeking out, as well as our universal rear panhard kit.
To check out the build thread on the HAMB, click here. Jeff, you’ll have $15 credit on account here at Welder Series ($5/per picture).
Grant Schwartz of Schwartz Inc. (check out his shop profile on our Shop Profile page) built a killer Model A frame using a bunch of Welder Series parts.
Paul Barber’s ’36 Dodge panel truck is getting a Welder Series Mustang II crossmember kit, and a new HEMI! Grant Schwartz is doing the work.
Garth Webb (Webber Chassis) has been in the area building cars for a long time. Conveniently, he’s about 100 feet away in the same industrial building. This has advantages for both of us – he gets to peruse the shelves (daily) when he needs a little bracket or some custom machining, and it’s good for us because… well, I think I already mentioned why. The latest project to squeeze through the doors is a 1957 Ford which will be getting a Welder Series Mustang II crossmember and some other frame work done. Since he’s so close, I’ll be posting some updates as the project moves along. Here are some pictures to kick off the party.
UPDATE
Here are some pictures of the front end install on this Ford:
Stolen on September 29th, from a house in Breslau Ontario. The owner is a very, very big man.
1948 Ford Business Coupe
Pro Street
502 BB Chev, Tubbed 9 inch Ford Turbo 400
Frenched Headlights, shaved and smoothed
Bright Red, Tan Interior- Custom painted dash and garnish mouldings
Salty (on the H.A.M.B.) is doing some major updates to his 1950 Chevy pickup truck, and documenting it all in this thread. He called a little while ago and asked if we could come up with a solution to mount his booster under the floor, but his frame was very narrow. Here’s a photo of what we came up with:
You can see how he brought the booster bracket up over the top of the frame rail until the booster was very close the the inside of the rail. He did the same thing to the pedal bracket – the bent plate actually sandwiches the pedal against the inside of the frame rail… you can’t get much tighter than that!
Stephen sent us some pictures of his clean MII install in a 1949 IHC KB-2. He used our 60″ Mustang II kit. Obviously there is no weight on the front end – the lower control arm will end up level.
Thanks for the pictures, Stephen!
Along with the Mustang II kit, Stephen used Welder Series’ #C005 motor mounts and #WS2115 transmission saddle.
Terry just sent us an email with some pictures of how he used our frame curves. I thought it was most worthy of being shared! Here’s a bit of the email:
Put the curves together, cut the top part of the frame out and then just slid the curves into the frame. Then after welding I just cut the sides and bottom of the frame away and finished welding the curves and frame together with a gusset here and there. This gave me a good 4 inches more travel for my air ride, so far so good everything is working as planned.
This is being done on a 48 Chevy fleetline aero sedan.
Thanks again, Terry
Thank you, Terry!
Here’s a great example of what it takes to install a Mustang II crossmember in frames where the rails are too high, too thick, or just not nice to work with. Lloyd (who has a lot of history with us – you’ll see his picture in many of the Horton History blogs) did a really clean job on this install. You can see that if he left the frame rails at their original height, they would interfere with the upper control arm cross shaft bolts.
Simple product is Canadian made
How often are simple projects truly simple? Almost never is the correct answer but I have discovered a great product that is just that. After a very eventful outdoor show season, my first item was to get back in the shop and work. My wife and I put over 75,000 kms on our diesel truck heading from show to show this year and it’s time to get my hands back on some tin. So there I was, thinking about my next project. To keep it moving forward, I’d need to put a frame under the thing. Then it dawned on me, how cool it would be to try to keep this build Canadian. It will likely be next to impossible to keep it ALL Canadian but you have to start somewhere. If you went to SEMA this year, you very likely would have stopped by the Speed Tech Performance booth. Not only are they Canadian but they’re from right here in BC! (Maple Ridge to be exact.) They make really nice 1st and 2nd gen Camaro subframes and other cool suspension stuff. Off to a great start, I thought to myself. Tubular control arms, big sway bar and rack and pinion. Back to my not so little project, seeing as I’ve located a ‘subframe’ it hits me that I’m going to have to build the rest of the chassis from scratch. Enter another great Canadian company, Paul Horton’s Welder Series. Based in Breslau, ON, their products are aimed at the hot rod builder. The item that grabbed me was their weld together frame bends. (You gotta see ‘em: www.welderseries.com.) Initially you could be thinking that this sounds like a big project, but take a look at the website if you haven’t already. And even though you might not be thinking of doing a scratch built frame, maybe you are considering a very professional looking cross member or a c-notch everyone will envy or the back half for a pro-street chassis or any type of ornamental metal work… I built a railing for our deck last year and had to fabricate similar corners but they just didn’t work this well!!! Pay attention here because it’s really easy and doesn’t take very long.
Step One: Open the package and find the coinciding pieces. Put them together on a flat bench. (You will be amazed how nicely they fit together!) And note that there are marks on the flat pieces, they need to go to the Outside. You’ll see why later.
Step Two: Tack weld all corners, and throw one in the middle for good measure, then start welding. I did 2” sections at a time, alternating over to keep the heat even. You will need a real 220 welder, not a little 110 fella. These are structural components and need to be strong.
Step Three: Grind excess weld and round corners. DO NOT over grind as this will weaken your welds. Now trim to achieve the right bend… using those little lines on the outside of the flat piece. They are marked for 30° and 45°. So how cool was that? I couldn’t believe how well they really fit and went together.
    
Now get out there to your garage and figure out how to make some cool stuff for your car that looks like the pros did it! And remember, it’s not the car you drive, it’s the car that drives you!
J.F. Launier, car builder, owner JF Kustoms
JFKustoms is located in Osoyoos BC.
For more information go to www.JFKUSTOMS.com
Article reproduced with permission from www.canadianhotrods.com
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