Grant Schwartz of Schwartz Welding has completed a beautiful example of a narrowed Welder Series Mustang II crossmember.
It’s for a 1951 Prefect, and the finished track width ended up close to 48″, with 5/8″ narrowed control arms.
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Let me explain. Nevermind, let the pictures explain. When we say it’s a universal sway bar kit, Daniel took us up on that claim.     
Sway Bar Kit, UniversalThis universal fit sway bar is easy to install and lets you fit the bar to just about any application. 36" or 46" long, trim-to-fit. $250.00 — $280.00Sway Bar Kit (anti-roll bar), rear, 36″ wide, but can be cut down (with a hack saw) to any length. The bar is ¾” diameter with one end splined ¾-36. The other end of the bar is smooth. This smooth end gets pinned and welded into a coupler which welds to one of the arms. The laser-cut, 3/8″ thick arms are 8″ center-to-center. Formed tabs weld to the outer tube and connect the bar to the rear crossmember using the coil-over bolts. Urethane bushings insulate road vibration. Rod ends connect the arms to the tabs that weld to the rear end. Overall length is ¾” longer than the bar length, since the 3/8″ arms mount outside the ends of the bar. The arms can be bent to clear the coil-overs. The Model A sway bar kit includes a 40″ trim-to-fit sway bar with 3/4-36 splines on one end and no splines on the other end. Trim the bar to the exact length you need, then weld the smooth coupler and the arm to one end. Slip the bar through the outer tube and attach the splined coupler arm to the opposite end. The outer tube goes through the frame rails ahead of the rear end. The arms link to a formed bracket that bolts to the rear axle 4-link side plate. See pictures. Installation article: https://www.welderseries.com/blog/2011/04/13/sway-bar-install-on-nsra-33-giveaway/ Click here for installation instructions.
Mark just sent us a few pictures of his Welder Series MII installed in his ’51 Chevy truck. Nice job Mark! He used our coil over kit, which is a little bit less expensive than the coil spring crossmember kit. The coil overs will cost more up front, but will be easier to fine-tune the ride due to the availability of shock damping and a wider range of spring rates.       Mark has been added to our monthly draw to receive a $50 credit on his account here. We draw a random name from those who send in pictures of our parts being used on their car. Please send pictures to [email protected] dw Low West Hot Rods sent us some pictures of a neat installation of our tie rod end mount kit, and I thought I should share them!     Check out this truck! Chuck sent these pictures for our photo sharing draw, and I had to post them here. Also, I’ve included a bit of the email he sent along with the pictures. He recently ordered some more parts, so I asked him how the Mustang II install went: Hi Charles, thanks very much for another order. It should be shipped tomorrow. How did the Mustang II kit work out for you? Hello: Thank you!    
Recently, I made the quick jaunt down to Marcy NY to lend a hand on the 2011 NSRA giveaway car being built at Tucci Hot Rods and given away in Louisville in August. Dave and I have worked together a few times in the past, mainly on Sinuous, a 1935 Ford that debuted at Cobo Hall a few years ago. You’ve probably seen it in at least a few magazines. Being an 8 year project, Dave invested a good chunk of his life into this beautiful car. I posted some build pictures on the HAMB: check them out.  Tucci-built Sinuous Anyways, back to last week… We sent some parts down for the car that Dave had installed before I got there, like the triangulated rear four link kit, but while I was there we installed the engine/transmission, center section, rear sway bar, front Panhard, and I finished up some welding on the frame. Here are some pictures of the fun!  Tucci-built Sinuous  Figuring out the driver side motor mount on the GM Ecotec engine.  Plates were made using the factory motor mount holes.  For future reference, yes, the engine is supposed to be tilted… the oil pan is what’s levelled.  Mocking the motor in place so we can decide how to trim the frame brackets.  The tubes from our #WS2149 Chevy motor mount kit were welded to the Ecotec plate.  A Welder Series #WS40003 was adapted to the Ecotec transmission mount using a GM rubber insulator.   Here’s the engine mount frame plates trimmed and tacked in place.  We tweaked the mounting location of the transmission mount plate up a bit so we could run the crossmember tube straight across at the bottom of the rails.  …makes it easy to drop the transmission out.  Dave uses hole saws for just about every radius he cuts – he has plans to write a book on hole saws :)  Mocking up the center section. I used a ratchet strap to hold the two tubes tight and parallel while they were being tacked together.   This is the filled notch in the floor that Dave was hole sawing.  We added some support tubes beside the transmission.  Inland Empire Driveline will be building a new driveshaft.  This is a crossmember that will mount the Unisteer rack.  You can see the Unisteer rack mounted below the crossmember that will also hold a Walker radiator.  Starting to think about a tunnel…  Dave’s got it started before I can get my camera out.  He’s shrinking the end with the Pullmax.  Then he smooths out the ripplies with a planishing hammer. It’s always a pleasure to work with Dave and the rest of the Tucci team – he has the skill and equipment to turn out some of the nicest cars across the country. John St Germain sent some pictures of his Welder Series universal sway bar install accompanied by this note: Just a short note to say how happy I am with the rear sway bar kit I ordered from you the other day. I got it the next day and we installed today with pictures of the install. It is a simple easy to install system and we had no problems installing it with a little nip and welded it all up. It couldn’t get any simpler. What I thought was going to be a nightmare turned out to be a dream. We did it all in an afternoon. I will be ordering one for my roadster next. Thanks again for the quality we seldom see with other manufacturers. John St Germain http://www.timebombs.ca/timebombs/index.html We ended up using the air bag bracket for the lower heim connection and it looks like it will be perfect.     Tim Strange has decided to sell his Fleetline project… The other super cool selling points…..I will arrange photo shoots for press and magazine features…..I can get the car in the Builders Showcase for the NSRA Street Rod Nationals in August in Louisville….I can also get a spot for it some place in the SEMA show in November, in Las Vegas. All press and magazine coverage and shows will all be in the clients name. AGAIN….THE PRICE IS FOR A DONE CAR….WILL ENTERTAIN OFFERS…LETS TALK…YOU PICK COLORS AND SOME FINISH DETAILS….ITS READY TO BLOW APART FOR COLOR CURRENTLY.
 
I received these pictures from JH Restorations as submissions to our monthly photo draw, and as I looked at the rest of the pictures in his Facebook album, I thought they would be good to use on our site too. The captions are taken right from their Facebook album.  So the body is off to paint so mow we have to finish up the frame. Here we are going to be replacing the rear stamped steel cross member with a 1″5/8 bar. This will not only clean up the look but it will give us a place to mount our sway bar.  Once we have determined where we want the bar we used a hole saw and cut out both sides of the boxed frame and slid the bar inside. This will five the frame plenty of strength when it is all welded up.  Next we had to cut the Welder Series sway bar by about an inch. The Tube was already cut off and Jordan used it as a gauge to cut the correct length off of the sway bar.  Here the bar is mocked up in the frame.  Now it is time to weld the arm to the end of the bar. This small steel ring Jordan made will ensure that enverything is centered.  Here you can see where the bar will be welded to the coupler ends on the sway bar.  Here is the final assembly before everything gets paint and powder coat.  Here is the Sway bar. The smaller Spring steel bar rides inside or the larger tube, and is issolated by poly bushing at either end. We also used Welder Series alternate swaybar mounting method.  Here is a close look at the sway bar disassembled. For more information on the set up visit www.Welderseries.com Paul and DW have always been great to deal with.  Here you can seen the black tube at the top. That is housing the Fords new sway bar. Parts: I was browsing Grant Schwartz’s website (www.schwartzwelding.com) today and stumbled on this 1947 Mercury gallery. Grant is doing some neat frame work here, but what I zeroed in on was the way he mounted the brake pedal bracket. He used a Welder Series #WS25800 kit, and instead of bolting the pedal bracket to the frame using the tabs in the kit, he shortened the lower plate and set the upper plate on top of the frame rail. This is very similar to the way Lowdown Hotrods did the remote pedal kit in a Model A frame they built (pictures are on the WS25800 product page of our web store). Both these methods will get the brake pedal very close to the inside of the frame rail.   You can also see our #00206 body mount plates Grant used. |
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