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Paul and Dorothy will be taking the ’32 to Knoxville TN on Saturday – about 700 miles each way. Just so you’re not panicking, the Nationals aren’t this weekend – they’re doing some visiting on the way down to end up at the show, which is next weekend. So if you see the Welder Series ’32, stop and say hi! Dear Welder Series… Mike Dear Mike… The bottom of our crossmember is 1-5/8″ lower than the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt. The stock spindle height will be about 3-1/2″ higher than the lower arm pivot bolt. A dropped spindle will be about 2″ higher than stock. (The top of our crossmember is about 5/8″ higher than the lower arm pivot bolt center.) The rack sits higher than the top of the crossmember. The engine should not be installed until the rack is in place to be sure the pan clears. An advantage of our crossmember is that you decide how you want the frame to sit and we tell you how to notch our crossmember and towers to achieve this ride height. It’s easier to tell you how much ground clearance you will have for a given tire diameter. Suppose your front tires are 27″ diameter. The spindle will be about 13″ from the ground. (1/2 of the diameter minus 1/2″ for tire “squat” with weight on it.) With stock spindles, the bottom of our crossmember will be about 9-1/2″ from the ground. (13 minus 3-1/2.) The bottom of the crossmember will be 2″ lower (about 7-1/2″) with dropped spindles. Thanks for a good question. I hope this answer helps. Paul Horton
I know, I know, the title in the video says something about gloves. Let’s just say that’s a little teaser for a future video This video shows a few suggestions on holding and advancing the filler rod when you’re tig welding. JF sent me these pics of a Riviera he’s building. While the whole project is a bit mind-numbing, I particularly enjoy the frame (since it uses a whole whack of our frame curves!) I’m pretty confident you’ll be interested in a newish online TV show he’s doing, highlighting the build and sale of his yellow Chrysler wagon project. Also, here’s his website: www.desertspeedshop.com We’re doing some maintenance on the ’32 in preparation for the summer, and one job on the list is to repack the wheel bearings. With painted wheels, there is a finite number of times the hubcaps can be removed before the inevitable scratch occurs. Hopefully this little tool will decrease the odds… We took an old screwdriver that has been sitting in the screwdriver drawer for ages. There was no good reason it was there – it was missing the bit. If my wife had gone through the screwdriver drawer, this little guy would probably have been recycled into a part of my keyboard now. We just cut a wedge into the handle that will pop the caps right off. You can hammer on the end of the screwdriver… works like a champ! Dear Welder Series… Dear Dan… We can make custom width Mustang II crossmembers up to 9″ narrower, to give track width of about 46-1/2″ with short control arms. Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts. Paul Horton Dear Welder Series… Dear Dan… I hope this helps. We have a toll-free phone line, 1-888-648-2150, if you would like to talk with us. Paul I have recently been trying to refinish a set of wheels because the previous owner thought it would be handy to know that he was right up against the curb. The wheels are polished aluminum with a thick clear coat. Because they had been curbed so badly, water and salt had started to seep under the clear coat and corrode the aluminum. Somehow, I needed to take off the clear. I tried sandblasting, grinding, body prep, rust remover… nothing would touch them. Then I found this stuff called Tal Strip. It’s a pretty harsh chemical, and as soon as I saw the “may cause brain or nervous system damage” I knew it was the right stuff. I just dropped a glob of it on each spoke and spread it around with a paint brush. A thick coat is best. You’ll want to do it outside. After around 20 minutes, you’ll notice the surface will look like a sponge, and you can just wipe the wheel with a plastic scraper or something to expose the bare aluminum. I can’t believe how well it works – it’s the most effortless way to clean the wheels! Before you comment, I’ll mention that they are late model Audi wheels for my Passat wagon Dear Welder Series… Dear Bart… Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts. Paul Horton Dear Welder Series… Dear Bart… Paul Dear Welder Series… Dear Bart… Paul. Dear Welder Series… Dear Bart… Paul Dear Welder Series… Dear Billy… Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts. Paul Horton Dear Welder Series… I would like to convert to IFS front and 4 link in the rear. Also which parallel 4 link kit is appropriate for this truck and is it compatible with shock waves? Thanks Brian Dear Brian… I would use WS222501 for the parallel 4-link and WS2184 for the Panhard. AirRide Technologies aluminum mounts could be used for the ShockWaves or you could make tube spacers, similar to our 23203 but with a longer tube… Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts. Paul Horton |
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