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Dear Welder Series…
To whom it may concern,
I am getting ready to build a pre runner style truck out of a 2001 Chevy half ton pickup. Its and extended cab short bed two wheel drive. I was planning on running King coil overs in all four corners. Do you happen to have or would you be able to fab a complete weld or bolt on 4 link kit. I like the triangulated design but the pictures on your sight the rods them selves look to short if you can build something like that can you please put a quote together and email me back and if not maybe you might know who is able to do it thank you very much.
Dear Tyler…
There are some drawings that show where the bars mount at https://www.welderseries.com/instructions/ws21850/ws21850_dwgs.htm . If this length doesn’t work for you, we can supply custom length bars. The frame mounts go in the same place for both our 218500 and 318500 kits.
Thanks for looking at Welder Series’ parts.
Paul Horton
Well, it’s that time of year again… time to have a look at many manifestations of love, blood, sweat, and stress at this years Detroit Autorama. I enjoy seeing the finished products, but I think I like the builds better. This thread has some build pictures of Sinuous, a Dave Tucci – built ’35 Ford that was a Great 8 car last year. Another great behind-the-scenes look at a Ridler car is JF Launier’s online TV show.
If you’re going to be in Detroit this weekend, please say hi if you see me. I’ll have a Welder Series T shirt on.
A strange thing happened the other day… I came into the shop and thought I heard Rick Moranis in the background talking about blowing something up. Turns out we’ve ended up with a supersized #28831! Instead of 3″x3″, the newest gusset on the shelves is 5″x5″ with two 5/8″ holes and one 1-1/4″ hole.
$5/each, 10 gauge mild steel. Click on the picture to head over to our web store.
FYI
For a product that hasn’t even made it in the paper catalog yet (sheesh), our big bushing four link kits are getting pretty popular! So popular, in fact, that they outsold our standard bushing kits for the past 30 days or so. With 3/4-16 threaded adjusters instead of 5/8-18 and 1-3/4″ wide bushings instead of about 1-3/8″, they’re a bit beefier, but otherwise the same.
Large adjuster:
Standard adjuster:
…Just by telling the internet a good tip on welding! You’ll have to be a member and send it to admin(@)myrideisme.com and if you have pictures, that’s even better.
Click here for the article.
Mr. MyRideisMe just emailed to remind my commentators that they have to be a MyRideisMe member to win the helmet! It’s free though… so you can still win a free helmet.
Brake Pedal Return Spring
We spent a lot of time thinking about how to put a return spring on the pedal. We liked the idea of having a spring because it would give the pedal a more ‘solid’ feel, and we could effectively adjust the pedal pressure. I liked the way Cam did the return spring on his ’32 and, since imitation is the highest form of flattery, I had to do one like it. Cam made his with a split ring with a set screw that tightens the spring plate to the bar. I decided to use a separate piece with two set screws, mostly because it was easier to make. I could also adjust the tension easier, because when I turn the rod it’s not trying to turn the spring as well.
I machined the piece with the set screws from mild steel, and the spring plate from aluminum. I imagined that I’d be able to tighten the set screws tighter in steel. The shoulder on the left side in the picture is for my brake light switch which I mounted underneath the master cylinder bracket. The shoulder on the right side is to hold the spring.
When I push on the brake pedal, the aluminum plate comes away from the brake light switch, thus turning on the lights. I also shortened the 3/8″ plunger rod and welded it to the end of the bar. It’s just a bit cleaner, since the bar goes right to the plunger.
Here’s a post about a candidate for a return spring.
I’m on my way! First YouTube, now MyRideisMe.com! OK, YouTube on MyRideisMe.com. Same difference.
Welding With DW (WWDW) is a series of videos I’ll be shooting over the next 10 to 15 years (whichever Pikesan signs the contract for) focusing on little things that have helped me weld over the years. I’m even going to try and avoid calling them “how-to” videos, implying that this is how you should do it. Instead, they’re more like “how-I-do-it” videos.
This first video covers a little bit on how I hold a tig torch. Enjoy!
We have had quite a few questions about installing our Mustang II kit in cars that don’t lend themselves well to a conversion. Sometimes “modifying the frame rails” is necessary. What exactly do we mean by that?
I thought I’d put together some pictures that show a few frames that have been modified to accept a Mustang II crossmember. If you have any questions about your frame or any of our parts, please email or call toll-free: 1-888-648-2150.
 This Oldsmobile frame has been bottlenecked to accept our Mustang II crossmember.  The '57 Oldsmobile has received a similar treatment, but the builder used larger diameter tubing straight forward from the firewall.  You can see the spring clearance notch in the frame rail in this picture of the finished '57 Olds.  Here is a Welder Series Mustang II in a 1978 Volvo. Extra material was 'wrapped' around the existing front rails of the unibody car.  A '57 Ford frame has the springs mounted inside the frame rails.  The '57 has been cleaned up and 2x4 tubing was used to mount our MII. If you’ve put our Mustang II kit in something “weird”, please send us some pictures!
Dear Welder Series…
I would like to know if you have plans in the future to supply triangulated four bar rear kits for model A’s and also would like to see a kit to adapt the Uni-steer type single cross steer rack to the Model A frame without using a vega bracket in addition to the bracket the rack comes with? Thanks for your time, Jon.
Dear Jon…
Thanks for gving me these two things to think about, Jon.
Dealing with the Unisteer rack first, I have work to do studying the “blank” end of the rack’s position in a right turn relative to the lower 4-bar. This won’t happen for a few months at least.
The Welder Series’ WS218500 triangulated kit (https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/rear-four-link-kit-triangulated/) could be used in a Model ‘A’ with these changes:
Delete:
222016D Frame bracket plate
222016P Frame bracket plate
218502 Frame bracket
Replace with:
12501 (4 pcs) Frame bracket (https://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/frame-bracket-12501/) Mount the frame end of the lower bar under the frame rail and in line with the frame. The urethane bushing would be between the plates. This bracket will put the lower bar very close to the correct position. I’d box the plates for extra strength.
Change the adjuster studs:
Use 2 (instead of 4) 100810 straight studs.
Add 2 100815 5 degree adjuster studs. These will go on the lower bar at the axle end.
The reconfigured kit would cost $300.00. I am giving it part number WS218528.
A Model ‘A’ frame is quite narrow and you might feel the upper bars don’t have enough triangulation. Consider running the upper bars wide at the rear axle and to the middle of a crossmember for the front mounts.
I hope this helps.
Paul Horton
I started at 5:00 on the nose, with four flat crossmember plates and the upper tower pieces. At 6:00 I’ve got two Mustang II crossmember kits on the bench… that’s 30 minutes per piece!
Are those labor dollars you could bring into your shop?
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