2009 August | Welder Series Inc.

Stephen’s ’49 IHC Mustang II

Stephen sent us some pictures of his clean MII install in a 1949 IHC KB-2. He used our 60″ Mustang II kit. Obviously there is no weight on the front end – the lower control arm will end up level.

Thanks for the pictures, Stephen!

Along with the Mustang II kit, Stephen used Welder Series’ #C005 motor mounts and #WS2115 transmission saddle.

Keep Guessing!

Let’s keep the guesses coming! Email me or reply to this thread with your estimation of how much the ’32 weighs.

I’m going to keep the figurative contest doors open until Tuesday September 1st, because the newsletter automatically goes out Monday morning at 4am (who picks these times?).

Thanks to all of you who have submitted a guess so far! The closest guess is 37 pounds off!

’32 Update: More On Wiring (complicated minimalist theme prevails) (article 29)

More on Wiring

I have a few wires to run from the hole in the firewall/ kick panel to the headlights, and to keep the “complicated minimalist” theme going, I decided to do this:
I got some of Kugel’s stainless line clamps. They come with stainless hardware too, which is a great thing. Keep reading… the wiring part is coming up.

I trimmed the ends off two clamps and welded them together on the inside so you can’t see the weld. If you’re wondering why there are only two hoses, I’ll explain that in another article. I’ve run the heater hoses in a different place.
OK, this is where this article fits into the wiring category. I was going to attach the a/c hose clamps at the top and bottom like in the last picture. Then I started to not like the hole on the bottom and tried to think of a way not to use it. I knew I still wanted to do something to cover the wires going to the headlights, so this seemed like a good line to follow. The stainless line that’s now welded to the clamp will hold the wires, as well as the bottom portion of the clamp. By welding a mounting tab to the tube (pointing up), I will be able to attach the tube assembly to the frame rail, and the hoses will hide the bolt head.
You can see the tab in between the clamps. Now that I’m looking at this, I’m going to change a few things. I’m serious – this was completely spontaneous. I was going to run the transmission cooler along these clamps too, but I think I can clean it up a bit still.

So, to clean up the tube that carries the four headlight wires and the two A/C hoses to the front – along the frame rail, here’s what I came up with.

I had the headlight wires along the bottom of the a/c hose brackets, but when I thought of running the tranny cooler lines along the same way, everything was getting too wrapped up. So I cut the wiring tube off the bottom, moved it to the top, and bent a tranny cooler line for the bottom. The cooler return line will weld to the Kugel brackets right beside the bottom line.

To mount this unit, I’ll weld a stainless tab across the two tubes and bolt to the frame rail through that tab. That way, the a/c hoses will cover the bolt heads.

’32 Update: Transmission Cooler Lines (article 30)

Transmission Cooler Lines

The next addition to the a/c line clamp/ tranny cooler lines/ wire cover is making a tranny cooler return line. Instead of using tube nuts and sleeves on the tranny end of the tubes, I got stainless -6AN fittings, cut them in half, counter bored them for 3/8″ line, and welded them on. Here’s how they turned out:

The tabs going from the top tube to the bottom tube with the hole in them are actually lengths of the stainless tubing hammered flat. The next big challenge is snaking the hoses through the clamps. I still have to fine tune the radiator ends and install tube nuts.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II for ’65 Mustang, rack mounts

Dear Welder Series…
I saw your welderseries video on “www.weldingtipsandtricks.com” and found your website. Real quality work.
I specifically wanted to know if you have crossmember kits for 65 Mustang cars? If not, are any of your kits adaptable or have any of your customers used your parts for a 65 66 mustang?
Thanks
Jay

Dear Jay…
Thanks for the compliments, Jay.

Our Mustang II kits are adaptable to your Mustang although frame work has to be done from the firewall forward.

I hope we can help with your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
Hello, I recently bought a MII front cross member from you and was wondering, where my rack and pinion hooks up there are two tabs, and I noticed on some cross members there are two holes all the way thru the cross member,which is how the used rack I bought was bolted up,do I just use shorter bolts, or is there a difference in racks ? such as different years bolt up different.
One more question, if I buy your Granada front brake mounts and use Granada rotors do I need Granada wheel bearings or M II bearings, or are they the same.
Thanks
Vern

Dear Vern…
Thanks for asking, Vern

The two tabs rotate the rack so the input shaft angles 20 degrees lower. This helps the steering linkage clear many motor mounts. Use 4″ long bolts as described on page 5 of our catalog in the lower right corner. Info regarding power racks is also on page 5.
Bearings for the Granada and MII rotors are the same. This info is in the installation pages that come with the brake kit.

Thanks for your order. I hope we can help with other parts for your projects.

Paul Horton

’32 Update: window channel weatherstrip (article 52)

It’s always a treat trying to figure out which profile of weatherstripping to use. Typically, the stuff you use for the window channel is “cat whiskers”, and is usually attached with screws or weatherstrip adhesive. Since the garnish molding is a part of the door, it’s not easy to drive a screw through the inside lip of the door (where you rest your arm while cruising). So I began to explore the different weatherstrip profiles in the Soffseal sample baggy.

I needed to detach the power window channel from the door so the glass would drop right down inside and give me clearance where I would install the weatherstrip.

If I haven’t been able to explain where I’m putting the weatherstripping, this should do the job.

With this style of seal, it’s important not to make the fit too tight between the glass and weatherstrip, or the glass won’t want to slide up and down – it will get stuck. You may have to combine two different thicknesses to get the spacing right.

The inside door panels which hide the power window motors are attached with machine screws, but there isn’t a seal preventing them from rattling. I took some sample pieces from the Soffseal sample bag and filet’d the side with the adhesive to the thickness I needed. After sticking a fw of these skinny pieces around the perimeter of the panel, it keeps it away just far enough that it won’t rattle.

This is the profile I used for the window seal. I took this picture to show there is a good side and a not so good side to this piece. This profile is manufactured as two strips side by side, connected by a thin bridge. Afterwards, they are seperated. This process leaves a tiny ridge along one side (in this picture, the left side). I chose to install it with the ridge facing down.

Colyer ’32 Pics

On the Sunday before Louisville, Paul and Dorothy took the ’32 to a cruise night in Milton, ON (about 45 minutes away) for a break-in run. If you haven’t been keeping track, the first drive was a day before. As they were leaving the show, a man was snapping pictures like film was going out of style. It’s a good thing our website is on the door, because a few days later we received these pictures from him! We asked if he would mind us posting them here, and he agreed. Here is his contact info:

Geoff Colyer
gcolyer (at) rogers.com

HIghway Drivin’ video

Front End Wobble thread on the H.A.M.B.

This is a great thread which goes through a whole bunch of diagnostic tests for trying to solve a front end wobble on a solid axle front suspension.

Click here to go to the thread. There is lots of great information here, especially once Dick Spadaro starts troublshooting. If your front end is dancing long after the music stops, you’ll want to check this out.

“Do You Think I’m Fat” CONTEST!

UPS is always at the NSRA Nationals weighing cars, so I thought I’d take the ’32 over and see if it needs to go on a diet. Before I spill the beans (and the twinkies, and the ho-hos), I thought it would be really fun to see how much you think it tips the scales.

Click here to email me with your guess! The winner will get 1% of the weight they guess in dollars. In case of a tie, you may want to divide it up into front/rear distribution. I’d be happy to answer any questions about what’s on the car, or you can just read the whole build-up HERE.

Contest closes modnight on August 24/09.

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