Dear Welder Series… 1936 Chev Master mustang ii?

Dear Welder Series…
I am looking for a MII front end for a 1936 Chevy Master Sedan. I really like the looks of your standard coil crossmember. Do you have recommended frame widths for the 56″ and 58″ cross members? I see that you recommend the 56″ crossmember for a 36 chevy, but I may run a larger offset wheel and 58 may work out better for my application. My frame measures 24″ inside to inside and about 27.5″ outside to outside at “Z”. Also, in calculating ground clearances, can you tell me what the measurement is from the spindle height notch to the bottom of the crossmember? I am trying to get the car as low as possible and retain about 3-3.5 inches of travel. The top of my frame at ride height is 12″ from the ground (same as spindle center with my 24″ tire) so the notch will be right that the top of the frame if I use stock spindles or 2″ below with dropped. Also, does the top coil tower have enough material to mount to the frame if I go with stock spindles in this setup? This would
translate into basically cutting the crossmember completely off horizontally at the spindle notch, which would be the top of the frame rail. The tops of the rails are pretty level concerning the additional material needed for correct anti-dive. I hope this makes sense. Looking forward to ordering parts soon….

Thanks!

Dear Randy…
Thanks for giving me these details, Randy.

The limiting factors for the frame width vary depending on the frame height, but in general:
Minimum frame o.d. for the 56″ kit is 26″. Max frame o.d. is 30″. Depending on frame height, max would be about 30-1/2″ with the coil-over kit.
Minimum frame o.d. for the 58″ kit is 28″. Max frame o.d. is 32″. Depending on frame height, max would be about 32-1/2″ with the coil-over kit.

These min/max dimensions can be “defeated” by notching the frame rails (for spring clearance, for example) or by adding to the inside or outside of the frame in the area of the crossmember and upper towers.

With the crossmember sitting on the bench, the spindle height notch is 5-3/16″ off of the bench surface. If you use 2″ dropped spindles, the bottom of the crossmember will be 7-3/16″ lower than the spindle.

We would use 11-1/2″ as spindle height with a 24″ tall tire. This allows for tire “squat” when weight is on the tire.

Would consider putting a step notch in the frame in the crossmember/upper tower area to make the installation (much) easier?

Thanks again for considering Welder Series parts for your project.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series…
thanks paul. It looks like ground clearance wont be a problem then. Sorry for the additional questions, but how would stepping the frame make the install easier? I would think that notching the cross member would be easier. Is it because I want ride height so low / crossmember high in the frame? Also, do the upper towers have enough material to mount to the top of the frame rail if the top of the frame is at the spindle notch ? (i.e., -using dropped spindles). I am looking forward to getting parts in. I originally built the car back in the early 90’s and am doing a complete re-frame off. I am plugging along and will hopefully have the body off the frame this weekend. Oh, you dont make any rear leaf spring hangers (2.5″) do you? I appreciate your help Paul!

Thanks again,
Randy

Dear Randy…
Randy, you’re right about the low ride height and the crossmember. The upper towers won’t have any material to weld to the frame if the top of the rail is at spindle height. (The bottom edge of the tower is spindle height.)

Sorry, we don’t have leaf spring hangers.

Good questions & comments!

Paul

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